Costello Tagliapietra — Plaids & Suspenders

Posted on February 20, 2015 by SMM

Red plum folded front dress with cartridge pleated skirt

Fawn suspender dress with red plaid funnel neck

For Fall 2015, Costello Tagliapetra presented RTW fashion during their runway show at Lincoln Center, Pavilion. A great deal was all about some plaids and/or suspenders. And hey, I’m convinced; I’m a believer! Everything was very stylized and clearly driven towards the brand’s signature aesthetic. So it was nice seeing a bit of re-interpretation and transition for this Fall 2015 season.

Bark jacket & gaucho

Plum collared shirt & navy trousers

Costello Tagliapietra was specifically thinking about ways in which they could re-interpret their design work, to reflect upon themselves, going even back into one’s own history. So with this collection, imagine this — “A forest trail leads to a lone house deep in the woods. SHE is making her way there!”

Fawn & bark funnel neck dress

So of course as this fashionable lady is making her trek, she would desire some very specific attire. The brand composed plaids by building up layers of colored grids. Then, thru threading lines of yarn over and across each other, these intricate plaids were created. And then of course as I mentioned, besides lots of plaid-work, there are also many suspenders’ looks, as well as some super chic dresses.

Slate haltered dress

This collection truly evokes the colors, smells, and sounds one would stumble upon while deep in the forested trails, being grounded to the earth. But there is a sense of something more, something magical and unknown. The color palette is then derived from photography of woods and forests, abstracts, painting in watercolor, using this to map out the tones and hues for these pieces, setting the mood! Colors seen are deep burgundies, mint green, navy blue, olive green, and more.

Dark spruce crepe pant & slate green shirt with floral embroidery

This collection is full of RTW, lots of base, staple pieces needed for any wardrobe. But all in all, it is still very thought provoking. It does leave something to the imagination, captivating you from start to finish!

Bronze woven cardigan wrap dress

Celebs making an appearance — model Cory Kennedy, Nigel & wife Cristen barker, Miss J alexander, actress Shanola Hampton, Leigh Lezark of the Misshapes; Natalie Bergman; Pete Wentz of Fall Out Boy & actress Crystal Dickinson.

Show credits —

Fragrance/Scent — MiN NY — “To score this beautiful production, we composed an original fragrance inspired by Costello Tagliapietra’s mood boards for the collection. Using our OLD SCHOOL BENCH MiN NY SCENT STORIES, volume 1, as a base, notes of bergamot, angelica root, green grass, lily of the valley, wood wax, rum, cedar wood, vanilla, patchouli, veriver roots, and bay will greet you upon arrival and farewell.”

Forest green satin cape dress

PR, Front of House, Production — People’s Revolution
Styling — Ketevan Gvaramadze
Casting — Maurilio Carnino with MTC Casting
Make-up — Janell Geason for Aveda

Music — The Misshapes
Shoes & Boots — FRYE
Foundation Garments — Hue
Hair — Charlie Price and the Beauty Underground Artistic Team

IMG Fashion Venue Manager — Ethan Rosch
Lighting — Robert Strohmeier
Staging — Kadan Productions
Nails — Julie Kandalec for Essie

Fawn & bark crossover V-neck dress with red plaid funnel neck

Sound Designer — Erich Bechtel & Alex Herrin of Audible Difference Inc
Photography — Randy Brooke
Videography — B Productions

Pine crepe pant and hand stitched vest with midnight hand stitched plaid shirt

Fabric printing — AirDye Solutions
Dressers — BB’s Backstage
Sho & Co.
Factory PR

Plum jacket & gaucho

Models & Agencies — APM NY, Fenton, Fusion, NY Models, Major, Marilyn Agency, Silent, Wilhelmina, Mc2, Click, & W360.

Hand stitched plaid shell & tweed pant

Rose wrap front dress

Plum hand-stitched plaid shell & plum satin pleaded circle skirt

Naadam – NYFW Debut

Posted on February 19, 2015 by SMM

White cashmere v-neck tunic, wrap skirt, & scarf, with White parachute tunic

Naadam, well know for the finest high quality cashmere, made its debut presentation during NYFW for the F/W 2015 season. The collection was showcased at the divinely immaculate Highline Hotel, Hoffman Hall.

White cashmere sleeveless funnel dress

Cashmere pieces were made for both ladies apparel and menswear. It was intriguing to see the delicate cashmere handiwork transition from soft, subtle feminine silhouettes, to that of more rugged, masculine pieces.

Fiery red outerwear jacket, long white & ivory scarf, & grey trousers

For F/W, loving the great mix and use of colors, lots of white and ivory with eye-catching touches of fiery red, olive green, and royal blue. Lots of versatility can be seen with this collection, a lot to offer between sweaters, outwear, wraps, and more!

Quilted parachute coat, Waffle cashmere cardigan, olive gray cashmere funnel pullover, & olive grey cashmere jogger

So a little background on the brand since it is their debut at fashion week — it is a knitwear brand that responsibly sources the highest quality cashmere in the world. It is harvested seasonally from the Bayangovi region of Mongolia. At the heart of Mongolian culture, nomadic life is the oldest human subsistence method. And Naadam exists to preserve and extend nomadic life!

White trousers, coordinating ivory/navy printed scarf & cardigan, and navy blazer

This was a phenomenal debut, a job well done for a first showing. The styling was spot-on. The ambiance was perfection with such a beautiful location for the presentation. Every detail was well thought out and you could tell there was such great attention to detail!

Army cashmere quilted jacket, v-neck pullover, rib vest, & slim funnel dress

Show credits & partnerships —

Worth and Worth — Hats
Tamar Navama — Jewelry
PR — Bradbury Lewis

Nude cashmere blazer, shorts, with white tunic and joggers

ABC Carpet & Home — Rug decor
Aveda — hair & make-up

Sand cashmere duster cardigan, white cashmere knit tunic, white cashmere jogger, & rug scarf

Hickey Freeman Sportswear – The Inaugural Collection

Posted on February 18, 2015 by SMM

B-2 bomber jacket in calfskin. Donegal flecked silk and cotton windowpane trouser in deep navy. Sport shirt in washed chambray.

Hickey Freeman debuted its F/W 2015 collection at NYMD, held at Industria Superstudio and presented by Cadillac. David Hart, creative director, found inspiration in the early days of American aviation. References include the modernist photojournalist, Willi Ruge’s, iconic imagery of parachuting and skydiving in the early 20th Century. The collection is built around today’s modern man and his evolving needs.

M-1943 field jacket in deep navy reverse slub twill with soft donegal trousers. Dress shirt in blue oxford cloth.

With Hickey Freeman’s 110-year history, Hart’s collection expands on the brand’s current pillars – tailoring and dress shirting – and introduces new items into the modern luxury vernacular. Today’s man no longer wears a suit on a daily basis and needs transitional wardrobe staples to take him from the office to the gym, social activities, travel, and beyond. You can see that in this collection with a vast array of textiles and types of apparel. The collection provides this important capability to take the man from work to streetwear to more formal wear.

Oxblood 2 ply cashmere saddle shoulder sweater with French terry sweatpants in oxblood. Cotton dress shirt in deep navy thick and thin fleck.

The collection features nods to military decoration from leather and shearling bombers, to a reverse twill field jacket. The palate is based around rich neutrals, accented with vibrant colors in the Irish Donegal fisherman’s sweaters or with the texture of the twisted slub yarn sport shirts. The colors and tones are quite appealing – great mix of neutrals in navy blue, brown, and black, to vibrant pops of color in yellow or burgundy.

Peacoat in Donegal Tweed with Cowichan zip front sweater. Selvedge denim in raw indigo. Knit shirt in cotton slub jersey.

Hickey Freeman was founded in 1900 by Jeremiah G. Hickey and Jacob L. Freeman, and has stood for excellence in the men’s tailoring category for over 110 years. David Hart joined the Hickey Freeman legacy in November 2014, and has been tasked with introducing a modern sportswear collection with a youthful expression of luxury for the Hickey Freeman man. Hart is a New York luxury menswear designer who founded his eponymous label in 2009 as a tie business. Hart has since introduced ready-to-wear, showing his collection at New York Fashion Week. Hart has shown how versatile he is as designer between these 2 menswear brands.

Selvedge denim jacket with Irish fisherman’s sweater in antique gold. Deep navy merino knit polo shirt with gaberdine trousers in deep navy.

The Hickey Freeman Sportswear collection will feature sweaters, knitwear, sport shirts, outerwear, soft coats, casual trousers, and denim. There is a great deal of layering and the capability to mix and match pieces. Both of these are admirable and desired qualities for a menswear brand and collection.

Waxed canvas pilot blazer in jet black. Selvedge denim pants in raw black. Brushed twill sport shirt in jet black multi plaid.

Show credits –

Styling – Seth Howard
Casting – Jahn Hall
Hair – Oribe, lead by Louis Orozco
Grooming – AOFMPro, lead by Michelle Webb using Dermalogica

Logo sweatshirt in heather grey French loop terry. Cargo pants in faded lichen reverse slub twill with cotton dress shirt in white oxford.

Hats – Stetson
Lighting – Avon
Footwear – Johnston & Murphy
PR – Agentry PR

Shirt Jacket in silk and wool Donegal windowpane. Trousers in deep navy cotton twill with French loop terry sweatshirt.

Models & Agencies – Re-quest, Red, Adam, Hello, Fusion, Q Models, 1.One, & Wilhelmina

Additional Credits – Authentic Brands Group, W Diamond Group, Siskind Group, Maestro Dobel Tequilla, Peroni Italy, Double Cross Vodka, & hint Water

Waxed cotton canvas English raincoat with cotton and silk plaid hunting jacket. Washed selvedge denim in faded grey. Cotton sport shirt with flecked yarn.

Jordan Tesfay & Models Unite — #curvygirlsrock

Posted on February 17, 2015 by SMM

Jordan Tesfay, known for being the first full-figured fashion model to become a COVERGIRL, recently hosted a major Fashion Week party. The event was an opening cocktail reception at Bait & Hook. Delicious cupcakes. Live music. Stunning jewelry. A nice ambiance. And of course, being a model event and all, some beautiful, sexy models! What more could you ask for?!? This was such a great event. I was happy to have been invited. Here are some images and additional details on the event and about some of the amazingly talented individuals in attendance.

Here, Jordan is on the red carpet with Blessing Offor, recent contestant on NBC’s hit singing competition show The Voice. He was also the provider of the live music for the event.

Also in attendance was J.W. Cortes from Fox’s hit new show, one of my personal faves, Gotham. J.W. was a treat to meet, such a humble, nice guy!

And of course, Ricky Jarman, always a pleasure spending time with this burgeoning singer/songwriter, model, and actor — a true triple threat.

Bait & Switch provided the refreshing spirits, but it was Kay Martin of Cupcake Kay who whipped up the scrumptious cupcakes!

Compassion Brands showcased some gorgeous jewelry pieces at the event. The brand makes fashion more than just a trend. They have decided to take a charitable stance, truly empowering the message of “What you wear can make a difference.” Remember, the new trend is kindness!

Again, such a great event, amazing time of fun, food, music, networking, and more! Jordan Tesfay should be proud of this smashing reception, a real success!

Stars Attend Naomi Campbell’s Fashion for Relief Benefit

SAUNDER Fuses Historical Literature with Fashion

Posted on February 17, 2015 by SMM

Looks left to right — Mantle dress in orange & navy; Aragon dress with Dalmatian Bomber

SAUNDER, designer Emily Saunders, presented its A/W 2015 collection at Ed’s Chowder House at The Empire Hotel. Her looks are tributes to Hilary Mandel’s historical novels “Wolf Hall” and “Bring up the Bodies”, both telling the behind the scenes story of Henry the VIII’s split from his 1st wife Catherine and subsequent split with Rome.

Rochford skirt & Flight Jacket

The collection is rich and textured with many nods to traditional Anglo fabrics such as tweeds and tartans. The silhouettes sway from romantic and feminine to masculine tailoring, tied together by a thoroughly modern take on Tudor fashions and times.

Lady dress in eggplant

There are some stunning jewelry/accessories pieces that have been styled with these various looks. MEGAN ISAACS for SAUNDER marks the fourth collaboration with the accessories designer. Also inspired by the fashions and times of Henry the VIII, there is a focus on mixing textures and materials using hematite, pearl, and stud, like motifs in gold, silver, and gunmetal plating.

King of Hearts dress

There are a lot of eye-catching prints throughout this collection. The pieces are also infused with colors and tones that work well with the underlying concept, but also the a/w season. It’s refreshing seeing pops of vibrant orange and sunshine yellow. But the rich colors pair well with seasonal faves such as navy blue, olive green, and black.

Castle sweater

Emily has always had a deep love of art, travel, and fashion. This always enriches her work, giving her such a unique take. SAUNDER is committed to quality craftsmanship, and you can see that in every piece. She sticks to her signature work here, encapsulating the essence of femininity, but with quirky eclectic twists.

Plaid blouse & skirt

Emily saw the stage adaptations of these historical novels while in England this past summer. She was thoroughly inspired and decided to create her own fashion adaptions. She has done an amazing job here making these tales come to life, fashion-wise. There are looks from a more RTW stance to that of more formal pieces. These are some beautiful creations that modern, romantic fashionistas would be thrilled to wear!

Boleyn gown in yellow

Presentation credits —

Models & Agencies — One Management, APM, Major Models, Red, Marilyn Agency, Q Models, & Click

Blue slouch trousers, tie neck blouse, and spike studded jacket

Hair — Nunzio Saviano for Nunzio Saviano Salon
Nails — Patricia Yankee

Makeup — Orlando Santiago for Mehron
PR & Production — Seventh House

Pearl raglan top & aragon skirt

House Videographer — Noire Tribe
Shoes — Qupid

Heraldic gown

Wolsey dress in black

Wolf Hall – the good, the bad and the codpieces | Letters

David Hart & the Wild, Wild West

Posted on February 17, 2015 by SMM

And no, this is not about the Will Smith song or movie! It is just about the bold designer’s take for A/W 2015, inspired by the American Southwest and Spaghetti Western films of the late 60s. David Hart presented his era-themed presentation for NYMD, held at Industria Superstudio and presented by Cadillac.

Double breasted suit in desert tan English lambswool & Chambray shirt with silk foulard bandana

Hart states he was inspired by “Hollywood’s glorification of the American West during the 19th century, and how it was adapted for the screen during that era. The inspiration here reads loud & clear. The nod to the historical era is present, but it has been translated in a modern fashion.

Black western English silk tuxedo jacket in black with wooly pants in black Tibetan lamb and turtleneck in merino wool

This collection is a polished vision of the Western era with some real nods to real western workwear, authentic 19th century prints, and stylized Western prints from the 1960s. The colors are very vibrant for the F/W seasons, very refreshing to see — cayenne reds, rich browns, crisp oranges, all paired with some more traditional seasonal hues, navy & burgundy.

Zip front Cowichan sweater with Donegal tweed trousers, floral print cotton dress shirt, & silk cowboy print bandana

This is fun fashion to me, for menswear. It has a clear theme, but it doesn’t cross the costume-y line. And I love seeing how David Hart has worked his inspiration into his signature aesthetic, mainly working with his bold, dynamic suits.

Fine gauge button front merino polo shirt in cayenne red, trousers in brown English wool flannel, cotton Oxford dress shirt, and silk cowboy print bandana

Show credits —

Casting, Styling, & Production — Jahn Hall
Lighting — Avon
Hair — Oribe, lead by Kien Hoang
Music — Xavier Ames

Embroidered featherwale corduroy jacket in cayenne red, navy English mohair trousers, cream cotton Oxford shirt, & silk cowboy print bandana

Footwear — Brooklyn Boot Co.
Eyewear — Moscot
Grooming — AOFMPro, lead by Michelle Webb, using Dermalogica
PR — Agentry PR

Fine gauge button front merino polo shirt in navy, silk cowboy print shirt, & silk Foulard bandana

Models & Agencies — Re-Quest Model Management, Red, Adam Models, Hello, Fusion, Q Models, 1.One, & Wilhelmina

Suit in turquoise English lambswool with cotton floral print dress shirt and silk cowboy print bandana

Additional credits — hint Water, Johnston & Murphy

Suit in blue/cayenne iridescent English mohair with a Chambray western shirt and silk Foulard bandana

Suit in desert fuchsia English lambswool with silk paisley print dress shirt and silk bandana

Desigual — La Vida es Chula!!

Posted on February 15, 2015 by SMM

Looks left to right — Freehand watercolor print chiffon blouse & abstract watercolor print stiff satin pencil skirt; Primitive floral & abstract watercolor drop waist jersey dress; & Trompe-l’ceil floral tapestry motif mesh blouse and skater skirt with multi-hued pom-pom hat

MBFW — Theater @ Lincoln Center

Front 2 looks, left to right — Embroidered folk print woven overcoat & Over-sized Scandinavian print wool-knit tunic

Desigual is always a super fun runway show to attend and this season the brand certainly didn’t disappoint! For Fall 2015, Desigual and Monsieur Christian Lacroix celebrate the world of creativity. Fashion’s ‘It Girls’ got in on the action as well with Harley Viera-Newton who served as music consultant and Langley Fox Hemingway, whose designs were interpreted by Desigual to serve as the backdrop and runway floor.

Abstract geometries multi-hued shift dress with watercolor print clutch

Abstract ink stripe jersey A-line dress with baroque motif satchel bag

Black turtleneck crop top & colorful naive circle motif print pencil skirt

Fall 2015 was inspired by the creative process of putting a collection together, and is a tribute to what happens in the design atelier. Abstract paintings, upholstery swatches, photographs of Africa, a voyage to northern Europe, and a landscape full of flowers are the root of the design inspiration: One that is full of creativity and originality.

Graphic floral print skirt & button-up tank blouse

Multi-hued shaggy pullover sweater and midnight blue & teal Baroque-motif vinyl pencil skirt

The collection featured geometric motifs in black and white, multi-colored cardigans with a Scandinavian feel, and structured dresses dipped in watercolors. Floral skirts in printed tulle make up the line alongside cocoon coats in true Lacroix style. The result is an eclectic and sophisticated mix that’s sure to catch the eye of women everywhere. Other highlights from the collection are multi-hued embroideries, oriental carpet motifs, and baroque tapestries woven into vivid abstraction.

Graphic floral print long-sleeved dress

Baroque floral print A-line shift dress

Black & white Cubist geometries sleeveless shift dress with faux-fur pom-pom hat

This is a global world we live in and Desigual wants you to dress like it! This collection is a reflection of a crossroads of culture coming together, where folk crafts, lush landscapes, and works of art from the North, South, East, & West all meet. Thru black and white geometric pieces, multi-color patterns from various cultures across the globe, and distinct fabric textiles speaks the brand’s motto “La Vida es Chula”, life is cool.

Abstract ink stripe faux-fur tunic dress & patterned woven trousers

Black & mustard Baroque embroidered coat with quilted sleeves with Baroque floral print handbag

The mood is anchored by bursts of medieval gemstones, contemporary paintings, and exotic flower bouquets, all rendered on printed tulles, jacquards, embossed hair, and duchess satin. Craftsmanship ties together the spirit of the many cultures set deep within the silhouettes. Just as Monsieur Lacroix exudes, “Desigual embodies the multiplicity of a woman, and women everywhere.” Women share the pleasure for living, taste for beauty and art, and joy in using fashion as self-expression. Every season is a new opportunity for Desigual to offer its a way of thinking, inevitably influenced by the Mediterranean, the sun, light, passion, and a lust for life.

Mixed Nordic-print pullover sweater and abstract floral stiff satin tulip skirt with Jade pom-pom hat

When history and the world intertwine, that’s what we’ll wear in F/W 2015! Desigual’s current brand ambassador, model Chantelle Winnie (ANTM Cycle 21 contestant), walked the runway along with supermodel, Behati Prinsloo.

Baroque floral print sleeveless shift dress

Renaissance floral stiff satin jumpsuit with floral embroidery shoulder sash

Colorful naive circle motif sleeveless shift dress with black & white naive circle motif satchel bag

Freeform graphic print jersey A-line dress with burgundy carryall tote

Special celebs & guests in attendance — Katie Holmes, DJ Harley Viera-Newton, model Langley Fox, model Adriana Lima, model Lena Gercke, actress Pauline Lefevre, DJ Mademoiselle Yulia, Rocsi Diaz, Catherine Guidici, Stassi Schroeder, Nana Merriweather, Nigel & Cristen Barker, and Managing Director of Desigual Manel Jadraque.

Special credits —

Producer — Jay Arcos for Moda Tech, Inc.
Show Director — Ester Rabinad, Desigual
Hair — Edward Lampley

Stylist — Chiara Legittimo, Desigual
Casting — Maurilio Carmino for MTC Casting
Makeup Team — Gordon Espinet and the MAC Pro team

Set Inspiration — Langley Fox Hemingway
Lighting — IMCD Lighting
Nails — Keri Blair for MAC

Front of House — Deborah Hughes, Inc.
Music — Harley Vera Newton
Staging — Bernhard-Link Theatrical

Tadashi Shoji — Remarkably Timeless Beauty

Posted on February 15, 2015 by SMM

MBFW — Salon @ Lincoln Center

There just aren’t enough words to describe how glorious this F/W 2015 collection is. Tadashi Shoji has really outdone himself here. I wouldn’t dream of elongating this piece by the use of words. I really want to let the images do the talking because that is just how breathtaking these dresses are. But I will provide a few details at least on the designer’s concept and inspiration for the collection.

Black hand cut tulle & silk organza feathered strapless gown with an embroidered applique pleated bodice.

Navy/nude embroidered tulle gown with sheer illusion insets

Black bateau neck swing cape top and black crepe floor length skirt

The inspiration here was the joy of flight — the intersection between aircraft mechanics and winged flight, finding the muse piloting the avian highways. Spinning wings of propellers starting to hum. Metal gears beginning their rotational motion. This and more make up the concept behind these lovely gowns.

Grape/nude sleeveless feather motif embroidered applique full skirt tulle gown

Deep green feather motif applique bodice with full tulle skirt

Black feather motif sheer overlay gown

Painted with the ivory brushstrokes of windswept clouds, sparkling skies, birds gliding majestically, dancing on air currents with graceful wing beats, that is the journey to be taken with this collection. Airplane mechanics influence the allover metallic embroideries of copper, gold, and silver burnish luxe knits, while feathered wing motifs can be found in sheer lace and tactile embellishments.

Taupe tulle halter gown with gear motif embroidered applique and hardware embellishments

Deep green lace applique bodice with full tulle skirt

Ivory/black pleated Georgette strapless gown with beaded feather motif embroidered applique

A monochromatic palette of black, ivory, and navy transitions to semio-paque hues created from bi-color layering of diaphanous tulles. The ethereal silhouettes evoke a feeling of weightlessness. As if mused by the wind, feathers of frayed-edge silk organza and hand-cut tulle create lighter than air gowns and floor-length capes, dipping to dreamier depths. Aerial views inspire the textures of custom designed jacquards.

Ivory hand cut tulle & silk organza feathered tea-length dress with pockets and embroidered bodice

Navy tiered faux fur illusion neck shift dress with crystal hardware embellishments

Black oversized tiered faux fur jacket with crystal hardware embellishments

So remember, soar into the upper breaches of the atmosphere where you can be free from the forces of gravity, orbiting the uncharted skies, a sky voyager finding her bliss. I love these pieces. They are very much red carpet ready & worthy, and would very much like to see them in the future!

Copper/black bateau neck metallic embroidered tulle gown with pockets

Steel/navy gear motif embroidered panel bodice gown with tulle skirt

Grape/nude tulle gown with gear motif embroidered applique and hardware embellishments

Show credits —

PR — HLGRP
Production — Judith Rice & Associates
Styling — Tina Chai

Navy lace applique bodice with full tulle skirt

Casting — David Milosevich with Casting & Consulting
Hair — Rodney Cutler for Cutler/Redken
Nail Lacquer & Design — butter London

Make-up — Pep Gay & the M.A.C. pro team
Make-up prep & Skin Care — Eileen Harcourt for patchology
Lingerie — commando

Photography — Maria Valentino
Videography — B Productions
Jewelry — White Goods Co.

Music — Kevin Edwards
Shoes — Enzo Angiolini
Lighting Design — Prospect Lighting

Special celeb guests in attendance were blogger Courtney Kerr, Lloyd Blossom, singer Kesha, Miss J Alexander, actress Song Jia, Li Sun, actress Liu Yun, & actress Yang Zishan.

Ivory crepe sleeveless top & black hand cut tulle with silk organza feathered short skirt

Grape/black metallic embroidered lace dirndl gown with gathered illusion tulle neck and pockets

Lucio Castro Presents “Ubu Roi”

Posted on February 15, 2015 by SMM

Blue/red/black “Chinese Fingers cuff” tee shirt, khaki nylon jacket with leather collar, & grey checkered trousers

Lucio Castro was another menswear presenter for NYMD, held at Industria Superstudio, presented by Cadillac. And his concept for F/W 2015 was Ubu Roi, an hypnotic made for TV movie by Jean-Christophe Averty, airing back in 1965. The film was based on the revolutionary play by Alfred Jarry, considered by some a first sign of modernism.

Mac jacket painted by Sadie Laska on muslin, black/charcoal novelty stitch wool turtle neck, & black cotton stretch winter chinos

So why this movie? The designer was captured by the tensions between seriousness and playfulness from the film; it was innovative and primitive. There was also a sense of alluring repetition that is especially relevant now with the extensive use of GIFs & memes. There are a lot of great, unique pieces in this collection. Artist collaborator Sadie Laska worked wonders here, really increasing the level of appeal for these looks.

Blue/red/black “Chinese Finger Cuffs” sweatshirt & navy checkered trousers

Castro took the deep red found in the velvet capes of kings, and used it in repetitive patterns on the designer’s Italian-made fabrics. The sweaters here also have signature stitches that are Dadaist and 3D. This collection is still right in line with the designer’s signature aesthetics, still anchored in effortless and masculine “invisible uniform” that they always have strove for.

Caramel checkered shirt, purple heather sweatshirt, & grey sweater pants

These looks are wearable works of art. Men donning them would be eye-catching and only in the positive sense of the word. There is a great use of color here, traditional f/w colors of navy blues and burgundies. But it’s also refreshing to see some lighter, airy colors with pops of tropical green and burnt orange.

Royal red checkered long sleeve knit, royal red novelty stitch sweater, & royal red checkered pants.

And another great aspect, there is quite a bit to take in, lots of pieces, light layering, with sweaters, outerwear, turtlenecks, and more.

Blue heather chunky sweatshirt, blue nylon jacket with leather collar, and navy wool bonded shorts

Show credits —

Styling — Benjamin Sturgill
Artist Collab — Sadie Laska
Press — Agentry PR

Caramel block printed “Joker” shirt & navy blue knit suit

Shoes — Tretorn
Casting — Trew Productions
House Photography — Leandro Justen

Red on red “Uba Spiral” embroidered sweatshirt, Charcoal Dada tee, & Khaki cotton/stretch winter chinos

Hair — Oribe
Make-up — Yin Lee on behalf of AOFM Pro using Dermalogica
Additional credits — Johnston & Murphy & hint Water

Black sweatshirt painted by Sadie Laska and black cotton/stretch winter chinos

Great work here from Lucio Castro, impressive and boldly unique — I love it!!

Grey “Dada” short sleeve tee over grey Dada long sleeve tee and khaki cotton/stretch winter chinos

Navy checkered blazer, black checkered shirt, & navy/grey “Chinese Fingers cuffs” knit trousers

Ernest Alexander’s Wandering Traveler

Posted on February 13, 2015 by SMM

NYFW is here! One always fun-filled day for me is NYMD, a packed day with lots of designers showcasing some bold, dynamic menswear presentations. NYMD is held at Industria Superstudios, and is presented by Cadillac. One brand I always look forward to seeing is Ernest Alexander. And for F/W 2015, the concept is “A Wandering Traveler.”

Plaid gingham trousers & scarf, waxed jacket, ash leather messenger bag

For F/W 2015, Ernest Alexander celebrates the exploration and discoveries of a curious voyager. And with a great reminding message — it’s the journey itself that truly is the reward! And trust, this collection is very much a reward in and of itself!

Printed work-shirt, dark navy blazer, brown wool topcoat, dark navy trouser, silk necktie, & block print scarf

The inspiration for this collection stemmed from a cabin retreat in upstate NY. The cabin house environment was a huge source of inspiring ideas — sculptured pieces, southwestern photographs, lots of Aztec motifs, rich colors found in both the cabin and the outdoors. The color story here is vital to the collection, giving us lots of deep olives, warm browns, and pops of vibrant reds and blues.

White oxford shirt, ombre peacoat, dark navy trousers, ombre envelope clutch

From the colors and concepts, the perception of a man’s life, conjuring up ideas of travel, what he may have owned or collected, how he dressed, all started to come together. There is a lot of versatility here, the ability to mix and match. The collection offers a lot of separates and special pieces many men would definitely want to incorporate as part of their wardrobe.

White oxford shirt, olive waxed field jacket, dark navy trousers, ombre scarf, black waxed gear bag, & black waxed zip-top tote

Again, the F/W season tells a story about a romantic, wandering traveler interested in the world around him. The introduction of an ombre pattern pays homage to the traditional palette of fall foliage, while the addition of earth tones ground the contrast between crisp whites and rich navies.

Printed white shirt & blue wool cargo pant

These are some great, intriguing pieces, with a clear inspiration here. And each look in the collection goes perfectly with this story. I’m always impressed by Ernest Alexander and am very much eager to see more and more from them every season!

Blue wool bomber & blue wool cargo pant

Special thanks & credits for the presentation —

Footwear — Hydrogen 1
Make-up — Yin Lee for AOFMPRO using Dermalogica
Hair & Grooming — Christian Ceja-Compin of Oribe
Blankets — Faribault Woolen Mill
PR — Agentry PR
In addition — Johnston&Murphy & hint Water

Striped cotton shirt, navy wool trousers, burgundy waxed car coat, & taupe leather belt

Fashion Nexus

A fashion blog for anything & everything fashion, including fashion law topics

Tag Archives: New York City

Costello Tagliapietra — Plaids & Suspenders

Naadam – NYFW Debut

Hickey Freeman Sportswear – The Inaugural Collection

Jordan Tesfay & Models Unite — #curvygirlsrock

SAUNDER Fuses Historical Literature with Fashion

David Hart & the Wild, Wild West

Desigual — La Vida es Chula!!

Tadashi Shoji — Remarkably Timeless Beauty

Lucio Castro Presents “Ubu Roi”

Ernest Alexander’s Wandering Traveler

A fashion blog for anything & everything fashion, including fashion law topics

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