NYMD — Part 2

Here is my follow-up pieces for the remainder of the presentations for NYMD, hosted by Cadillac!

ROBERT JAMES

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MAKEUP — Mario Badescu; HAIR — Oribe; PR — Agentry; HOUSE PHOTOGRAPHY — Ben Kuto, Keith Carlson Video; SHOES — Johnston & Murphy; MODELS — One 1 Management, Tom Winslow Bella Agency; MUSIC — Love & Rockets, Matt Pickles Caveman DJ; HATS — Stetson; GLOVES — Icon

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Robert James has done quite well here with this collection. The suits are very modern and well-made. I appreciate the minimalist quality of the collection, but there are some fresh pops of flare here and there, showing great attention to detail.

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HVRMINN

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Hvrminn designer Minn Hur’s appreciation for World War II was prevalent throughout his fall collection. The lineup, which emphasized soft traditional tailoring, offered pieces inspired by the era’s military garb and interpreted in sartorial clothing.

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“My specialty is about finding the perfect balance between tailored clothes and military uniforms,” Hur said. I appreciate the clear vision and inspiration found in this collection. I see growth from it in some more literal elements to translated facets.

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CWST

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Orcas Island — 70 miles NW of Seattle lies the San Juan Islands, a secluded archipelago, barley tucked into the Puget Sound pocket. It’s a cellular dead zone. The type of slow paced offshore counter culture the CWST wanderer prefers. Inspired by grey washed rain shadows, cordovan tide lines, sandstone outcroppings and weathered Douglas fir, CWST veils the sun for A/W 2016.

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CASTING — Drew Linehan for Trew Productions; MAKEUP — Suzana Hallili using Perfekt Beauty and Mario Badescu skin care; HAIR — Dan T. Nguyen at Oribe; MUSIC — The Eyes; JEWELRY — Fay Andrada; ADDITIONAL SPONSORS — American Woolen Co, Johnston & Murphy; SPECIAL THANKS TO — Agentry PR, Alon Entertainment

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LUCIO CASTRO

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The Stonehenge Collection — THIS COLLECTION IS INPIRED BY PHOTOGRAPHS FROM TRAVELLING COMMUNITIES IN THE UK FROM THE LATE 80’S TO THE EARLY 90’S, WHO HAD SPIRITUAL AND MUSICAL GATHERINGS AT STONEHENGE.

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These communities lived and moved around in old buses that they had transformed into their homes and their creative spaces. From this starting point, Lucio created clashing patterns, oversized silhouettes, and a sense of lazy-­comfort, always picturing the wearer at a midnight concert in Stonehenge.

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STYLING — Benjamin Sturgill; PR — Agentry PR; CASTING — Trew Productions; SET PRODUCTION — Cooper Vasquez; MUSIC — Stephen Kisko

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CHAPTER

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Entitled Admission, Chapter’s F/W 2016 collectioni is inspired by Los Angeles and its inclusive nature, reveling in confidence, intention and the experience of finding yourself on a path lined with distractions that can be all consuming. The city has many nocturnal faces, each unearthing a subculture sought after by the individuals who seek to not only fulfill their personal ambitions, but to encounter new experiences along the way.

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This collection brings those elements of transformation and distraction to life with a new approach to familiar Chapter silhouettes. In a nod to the styling of the city’s mid to late 90s swing revival, The brand’s signature color palette is highlighted by a rich dark emerald green, clay, and mud.

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EXECUTIVE PRODUCER — Frank Delegadillo; CREATIVE DIRECTOR/DESIGNER — Devin Carlson; SHOW PRODUCER — Julie Shumaker; IN-HOUSE PHOTOGRAPHY — Shawn Punch; ADDITIONAL PHOTOGRAPHY — Jayson Payne; PR — Raluca State; SET BUILD — Cush Design Studio; STYLING — Richie Davis/Chloe & Chenelle Delgadillo; CASTING — StyledbyPhil; MAKEUP — Suzana Hallili using Perfekt & Mario Badescu; HAIR — Oribe; MUSIC PROGRAMMING — Bladerunner Trio; LIVE PERFORMANCE — Brooklyn Circle; MODELS — Ford, Americana, Re:Quest, DNA, MSA, Fusion, Major, Red, D1, Q; SPECIAL THANKS TO — Townes, Agentry, PBLC TRDE NY, Dr. Martens

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MATIERE

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For Autumn/Winter 2016, Matiere explores a sense of modern migration, updating the traditional traveler with the functionalities to explore today’s world. Mixed fabrications reflect the blend of cultural inspirations, from the edgelands of England to the cityscapes of New York. This duality between the natural and the urban is expressed through the use of materials on modern silhouettes.

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Many of the fabrics and textures conjure natural landscapes, while design details provide the ease to navigate them. Subtle tech elements include sealed zippers, protective funnel necks, covered plackets and adjustable cuff straps. The brand’s beloved apron front pant returns with seasonal updates, in addition to a selection of updated jogger pants and modern trousers. Outerwear remains a focus with collarless bombers, modern Harrington jackets and contemporary topcoats. Knitwear is also a stand-out category with cashmere cowl neck sweaters as well as light Japanese double knit and linen-cotton blend tops.

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CASTING — communa-K; MAKEUP — Perfekt; HAIR — Oribe; PR — Agentry; HOUSE PHOTOGRAPHY — Driely S.; FOOTWEAR — Dr. Martens; BAGS — Graf & Lantz; ACCESSORIES — Lucky Selectism

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NYMD — Part 1

No better way to kick off NYFW:Men then New York Menswear Day, presented by Cadillac at Industria Studios. Here are the first set of designers!

DAVID HART

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The AW’16 collection is inspired by Blue Note Jazz and the effortlessly cool musicians like Jimmy Smith, Art Blakey, and Max Roach. Photographs by Francis Wolff and graphic design by Reid Miles were the inspiration for the color palette and textiles this season.

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David Hart always puts out a superb showing and this collection is right in line with what I’ve come to know and love about the brand. The pieces are high quality and really perfection for the modern, trendy man. His plaid pieces this season really caught my eye!

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STYLING, CASTING, PRODUCTIONConsortium; HAIR — Kien Hoang for Oribe; MAKEUP — Suzana Hallili using Perfekt Beauty & Mario Badescu skin care; PR — Agentry PR; SHOES — Johnston & Murphy; MODELS — Red, Wilhelmina, DNA, NYM; MUSIC — Xavier Aimes; GLASSES — Moscot; ADDITIONAL SPONSORS — William Grant & Sons, Glenfiddich, Aqua Brands, American Woolen Company

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GARCIAVELEZ

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This season aims to shift away from New York’s fast-paced environment to seek renewal and reflection in the healing environs of thermal baths tucked away deep in the Alps. With that, we get pieces that are wearable, comfortable and the perfect blend of luxury meets function.

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The outerwear pieces for Garciavelez’s collection are eye-catching, I love the loose fits, with mixed media and multi-toned color palettes.

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MAX N’ CHESTER

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For Max N’ Chester, designed by Peter Trainor, this collection puts together a 54-piece line including tailored shirts, suits and contemporary outwear for men. Trainor also included expanded womenswear matching its male counterpart. He introduced two exclusive fabrics to the collection.

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“I am excited to bring forward a collection that offers the signature Max ‘n Chester look and also incorporates modernity and newness,” said Trainor. “Maintaining our four pillars of brand philosophy: fabric, design, silhouettes, and comfort, the fall winter 2016 line is impeccably curated for anyone that seeks ultimate luxury.”

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EDMUND OOI

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Edmund Ooi aimed to blend collegiate prep with club kids. Inspired by the class of 2525, the designer offered up a futuristic take on the schoolboy uniform, complete with turtlenecks, leather perfecto jackets and duffel coats, all styled with cuffed denim jeans.

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“I’m thinking about the student of the future and played on the idea of the uniform,” said Ooi. I really like this take myself. There is a futuristic vibe and I feel as if I’m seeing something quite different here.

Edmund Ooi Men's RTW Fall 2016

KRAMER STOUDT

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Mike Rubin, a Southern California native who launched his line in 2012, consistently draws from the surf, skate and punk culture of the Seventies and Eighties. But for his fall 2016 collection, he also pulled from German artist Markus Lüpertz, who regularly depicted a male dandy in his paintings.

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With this collection, Kramer Stoudt not only captivated his audience with an intriguing presentation set-up, but also well-made, impeccable pieces, varying form suits to basics to outerwear.

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PLAC

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Titled “Retro Spectrum”, PLAC’s fall/winter 2016 collection is filled with textures that evoke 1990’s grunge between the Britpop and Madchester sub­culture music scene. Nostalgic sports aesthetics from the late 80’s and early 90’s are apparent throughout with pops of colors, prints and patterns.

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Using familiar materials in an unfamiliar way is a core statement throughout the collection with pressed wool coats, knits infused with rayon, jackets with raccoon fur lining, and fabric blocking. Pops of cyber blue stand against a neutral color palette of black, white and olive.

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STYLING — Tom Van Dorpe; CASTING — Maurilio Carnino for MTC Casting; MAKEUP — Perfekt; HAIR — Oribe; SHOES — Dr. Martens; PR — Agentry PR; HOUSE PHOTOGRAPHY — Eric White; VIDEO — Alexey Yurenev; MUSIC — Yun B; STAGE & LIGHTING DESIGN — Max Relax; ADDITIONAL SPONSORS — American Woolens, Johnston & Murphy, Mario Bedescu, Aqua Brands

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J. Lindeberg’s Vision of Space — A Tailored Odyssey

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J. Lindeberg presented its “Tailored Odyssey”, “Visions of Space” collection for NYMD, during NYFW, held at Industria Superstudio and presented by Cadillac. Head designer Jessy Heuvelink to say the least, created some out of this world menswear pieces!

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TWO PLANETS, TWO REALITIES — The images sent back to us from outer space do more than just awaken our curiosity. They take us on a voyage. And with the A/W collection for J. Lindeberg, the brand invites you to join them for the journey!

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This collection takes you on a journey, from the spectacular red planet that is Mars, its abyssal black canyons and mysterious dunes, which are both silent & dramatic, continuing then to Earth, the most colorful of all heavenly bodies in our universe.

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With it icy glaciers, weathered rock formation and vast forests, Earth is a celebration of every color in the universal spectrum. The intriguing juxtaposition of these 2 captivating planets, Earth & Mars, formed the foundation of the J. Lindeberg men’s A/W collection.

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There were so many spectacular pieces in this collection. The suits were well tailored, providing a great fit. The outerwear was most dynamic. The mix of hues, from neutrals of shades of brown, to more vibrant color tones in teal and maroon, were all quite captivating.

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Show credits —

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  • Additional credits — Agentry PR, Johnston & Murphy, Double Cross Vodka

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Chapter A/W 2015 – The Unknown

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Chapter menswear presented a unique showing for their NYMD presentation, held at Industria Superstudio, hosted by Cadillac. The set design here was extremely unique, attention-getting right from the start. But it was a quiet simplicity that somehow made the noise, still allowing for the focus to go right to these minimalistic looks.

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Chapter’s A/W 2015 UNKNOWN collection combines inspiration from 2 very distinct eras – the development of space exploration in the 50s and the emergence of the cyberpunk sub-genre in the 80s. Seemingly unrelated, but yet inextricably interwoven, the growth and evolution of modern day science fiction are both pivotal advancements that delve into the UNKNOWN, with a sense of opportunity, potential, and the intrigue of endless exploration.

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With a goal of going beyond the physical reach, the collection offers an eye for asymmetrical details, analog-inspired patchwork, and translucent fabrics. Dark hues of purple, blue, green, and black set the tone for the season. The resulting aesthetic is harsh, unbalanced, and minimalistic.

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In modern usage, Chapter is stylistically complex, even contradictory in design and movement, but drawn together as a unified whole. Chapter manifests a taste of importance with the desire to evoke underlying emotional states of grandeur and visceral appeal focused around the individual man.

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Show credits –

  • Executive Producer – Frank Delgadillo
  • Creative Director/Designer – Devin Carlson
  • Show Producer – Julie Shumaker
  • Production Manager – Billy Garner

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Timo Weiland’s take on the American Traveler

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I have attended NYMD at Industria Superstudio for many seasons now. I was ecstatic when I found out that Timo Weiland would be presenting. They are such a dynamic brand, with stunning collections for both men and women. But of course being NYMD and all, this featured post is all about the men!

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The design trio behind the label — Alan Eckstein, Timo Weiland, and Donna Kang — was inspired by the art of Robert Frank; specifically the photographer’s work observed in The American’s. It was the idea of Americans traveling the world that provided the design team with fuel for a collection that celebrated heritage pieces, modernized into new forms. The post-war era photography, from the late 1950’s showcased, or rather drew attention to, the lives of the rich and the poor in their respective environments. The designers emulated the resulting contrast in this Fall 2015 collection.

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The truncated offering included “denim” jackets in suiting fabrics and woven sweatpants. Other elevated classics included traditional bombers, sweatshirts and work shirts. Time period in mind, the collection features window plane plaids in shades of grey, dark blues, black, and pops of color green, pink, and taupe. Design elements that have become signature for the brand are also present in the collection with color blocked shirts, wools, and zippers.

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With my first time covering Timo Weiland, I have to say I was impressed. I’ve been following this brand for some time, so it was great to finally feature them on Fashion Nexus. These are great pieces for any man to incorporate into his wardrobe, some great basic pieces with a fashionable flair, outerwear, and I love the bold use of color. The contrast between the more traditional hues and the more vibrant tones was fascinating!

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Show credits —

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  • Hats — Stetson
  • Photography — Lucas Flores Piran
  • Additional sponsors & show credits — dermalogica, Maestro Dobel Tequila, Double Cross Vodka, hint Water, Peroni Italy, Johnston & Murphy, and Cadillac

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NYMD Round-Up

Here is a round-up post for a few menswear designers who presented at NYMD during NYFW, held at Industria Superstudio and presented by Cadillac — Cadet, Fingers Crossed, & Garcia Velez.

Cadet

Beck_Lauren_Cadet12Inspired by the wartime restrictions in the Forties, Cadet presented tailored clothing mixed with workwear staples. Classic pieces included double-breasted suits, chunky shawl cardigans, bombers, and beanies in herringbone twill and wool blended with nylon. The collection was an ode to the gritty soldier, but in a modern way.

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Raúl Arévalo and Brad Schmidt launched their brand, Cadet, in 2011. All clothes are produced in their workshop in Bushwick, Brooklyn, pairing subtle military references with an elegant urban take on menswear.

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Fingers Crossed

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Ryu Hayama dug deep for inspiration for his collection — the deep blue sea that is — with a nautical-themed offering that offered water prints on pajama bottoms and shirts, bright yellow leather bombers and track pants, and a traditional French sailor’s stripe on sweaters.

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But Hayama elevated the collection by including sharp tailoring in suits and topcoats as well in rich wool-cashmere blends. The voluminous, multi-pleated pants and belted topcoats were very on trend.

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unnamed-5Garcia Velez

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A Harvard-educated architect, professor and author, Carlos Garciavelez finally embraced his first love by designing a men’s collection. No surprise then that his inaugural offering integrated many elements of architectural design such as paneling in shirts, ribbing in blazers and concealed pockets and pleats that were reminiscent of the shapes and corners of buildings.  These extra details provided a sense of movement that married the athletic essence of the overall collection.

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GARCIAVELEZ was created to deliver comfortably tailored clothing for the fast paced modern life. Conceived for today’s cultural nomad – a sophisticated, curious man in constant search of inspiration through life’s travels – the brand examines the global citizen, who returns home to infuse a wanderlust spirit into his daily life in the city.

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Carlos Campos Says Texture is the New Black

Carlos-Campos-FW15-Group-Shot“If I were a chair, I would be a desk. If I were an animal, I would be a cat. If I were a box, it would be open. If I were a place, it would be in the shadow. The ret are textures and degraded colors.” (Rafafans, Spanish Graphic artist and Art Director for Carlos Campos) Carlos Campos presented his artistic Fall 2015 collection for NYMD, held at Industria Superstudio and presented by Cadillac.

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The collection was inspired by Rafafans. In his chosen mediums of collage and photomontage, Rafafans creates dreamlike images with a subtle sense of playfulness and humor, informed by his deep understanding of textural and color interplay. Campos says he discovered Rafafans’ work while walking the streets of Lima. He was fascinated by his use of patterns and collage to create new texture over existing images. Campos said “Although the essence of the image was recognizable, what was done to it rendered it completely new and almost surreal.”

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So the Rafafans created a series of work based on Campos’ Fall 2014 collection. He was then inspired to emulate Rafafan’s techniques for this new collection, overlaying collage-like graphic treatments and patchwork elements as well as incorporating photo-realistic prints, while maintaining attention to detail, tailoring, and minimalism, which are all Campos signatures. Carlos describes this collection as being about “the transformative powers of art to change perception, change in the eye of the beholder. My designs this season leverage the power of texture and shape to appear different depending on the angle. You could say that this Fall, for me, texture is the new black.”

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Designs for the season have been constructed in a streamlined palette of solid blues, with accents of plaids and stripes. The collection features constructed panels of striking designs that invoke wave-like movement, overlaid silk-screened prints, and the use of shapes, contours, and topography to create texture and op-art like effects. The suits are classically constructed, yet cropped, allowing for hints of underlying textures and colors to peek thru. Campos’ new take on outerwear incorporates “texture blocking” while maintaining a sleek, modern silhouette. Sweatshirts featuring Campos’ iconic images and designs round out a collection that deftly blurs the lines between dreams & reality.

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 Show credits –

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  • Models & Agencies – DNA, Aim, Fusion, Major, NYM, Re:Quest, Soul, VNY, Wilhelmina, One.1, Click

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  • Additional Sponsorships & Credits – hint Water, Peroni Italy, Double Cross Vodka, Dobel Tequila

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It’s Casual Sportswear for GENTS

Gents FW15 Look 2Black ‘Knight Rider’ quilted flat brim cap, suede visor, black brushed tricot hooded pullover with metallic gold detail, black brushed tricot color blocked sport pant, and black performance sock

Gents went with a calm, cool, collected vibe for F/W 2015 during the brand’s presentation for NYMD, held at Industria Superstudio and presented by Cadillac. We all need staple, well-made pieces in our wardrobe, so for mens’ sportswear, look no further than Gents!

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Cadillac Lounge Look — navy ‘John’ mesh cap with black brim, black/white French terry zip front hoodie, & navy brushed tricot sport pant

It’s clear the concept was to keep the pieces simple, understated, and minimal. These looks were all about great fit, clean lines, with pieces you can easily incorporate into your on-the-go lifestyle. The looks would work great at the gym, casual Saturday afternoon or errands, or even just a low-key night out.

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100% black leather metallic gold brim cap, white french terry pullover hoodie, black quilted sport pant, and black performance sock

Very few pops of color were present in this collection, really just some maroon. But it wasn’t the vibe, so Gents stuck with basics in black and white, and more traditional colors for the fall season, namely navy blue. There were lots of separates, the ability to mix and match. There was differing fabrics though, such as comfy quilted pants to pieces incorporate leather. It’s the intricate, minimal details of this collection that make these pieces more than just your basic sweats or workout wear.

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100% leather white brim cap, navy/black/white brushed tricot zip front hoodie, black sport pant with white stripe detail, and black performance sock

I was impressed by the brand’s ability to keep it very simple, and stick with this vibe as a cohesive theme. It’s not always about the bells and whistles!

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100% black leather cap with white stripe detail, black perforated zip front hoodie, black perforated moto pant, and black performance sock

Show Credits –

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Bobby’ bomber in grey with faux fur detail, brushed tricot navy/black chevron zip front hoodie, black/navy brushed tricot moto pant, and black performance sock

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Greg’ gradient twelve panel flat brim cap, black french terry crew neck pullover with perforated detail, maroon sport pant, and black performance sock

  • Models & Agencies – Adam, Aim, Click, Ford, Fusion, IMG, Major, NY Models, One, Re:quest, DNA, Red, Soul, Q, & Wilhelmina

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Black ski beanie with faux shearling lining, white french terry zip front chevron hoodie, black sport pant with zipper detail, and black performance sock

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Wendell’ silver mesh performance snap back cap, black french terry zip-front chevron hoodie with maroon detail, black french terry sport pant, and black performance sock

David Hart & the Wild, Wild West

DAVID HARTAnd no, this is not about the Will Smith song or movie! It is just about the bold designer’s take for A/W 2015, inspired by the American Southwest and Spaghetti Western films of the late 60s. David Hart presented his era-themed presentation for NYMD, held at Industria Superstudio and presented by Cadillac.

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Double breasted suit in desert tan English lambswool & Chambray shirt with silk foulard bandana

Hart states he was inspired by “Hollywood’s glorification of the American West during the 19th century, and how it was adapted for the screen during that era. The inspiration here reads loud & clear. The nod to the historical era is present, but it has been translated in a modern fashion.

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Black western English silk tuxedo jacket in black with wooly pants in black Tibetan lamb and turtleneck in merino wool

This collection is a polished vision of the Western era with some real nods to real western workwear, authentic 19th century prints, and stylized Western prints from the 1960s. The colors are very vibrant for the F/W seasons, very refreshing to see — cayenne reds, rich browns, crisp oranges, all paired with some more traditional seasonal hues, navy & burgundy.

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Zip front Cowichan sweater with Donegal tweed trousers, floral print cotton dress shirt, & silk cowboy print bandana

This is fun fashion to me, for menswear. It has a clear theme, but it doesn’t cross the costume-y line. And I love seeing how David Hart has worked his inspiration into his signature aesthetic, mainly working with his bold, dynamic suits.

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Fine gauge button front merino polo shirt in cayenne red, trousers in brown English wool flannel, cotton Oxford dress shirt, and silk cowboy print bandana

Show credits —

  • Casting, Styling, & Production — Jahn Hall
  • Lighting — Avon
  • Hair — Oribe, lead by Kien Hoang
  • Music — Xavier Ames

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Embroidered featherwale corduroy jacket in cayenne red, navy English mohair trousers, cream cotton Oxford shirt, & silk cowboy print bandana

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Fine gauge button front merino polo shirt in navy, silk cowboy print shirt, & silk Foulard bandana

  • Models & Agencies — Re-Quest Model Management, Red, Adam Models, Hello, Fusion, Q Models, 1.One, & Wilhelmina

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Suit in turquoise English lambswool with cotton floral print dress shirt and silk cowboy print bandana

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Suit in blue/cayenne iridescent English mohair with a Chambray western shirt and silk Foulard bandana

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Suit in desert fuchsia English lambswool with silk paisley print dress shirt and silk bandana

Ernest Alexander’s Wandering Traveler

NYFW is here! One always fun-filled day for me is NYMD, a packed day with lots of designers showcasing some bold, dynamic menswear presentations. NYMD is held at Industria Superstudios, and is presented by Cadillac. One brand I always look forward to seeing is Ernest Alexander. And for F/W 2015, the concept is “A Wandering Traveler.”

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Plaid gingham trousers & scarf, waxed jacket, ash leather messenger bag

For F/W 2015, Ernest Alexander celebrates the exploration and discoveries of a curious voyager. And with a great reminding message — it’s the journey itself that truly is the reward! And trust, this collection is very much a reward in and of itself!

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Printed work-shirt, dark navy blazer, brown wool topcoat, dark navy trouser, silk necktie, & block print scarf

The inspiration for this collection stemmed from a cabin retreat in upstate NY. The cabin house environment was a huge source of inspiring ideas — sculptured pieces, southwestern photographs, lots of Aztec motifs, rich colors found in both the cabin and the outdoors. The color story here is vital to the collection, giving us lots of deep olives, warm browns, and pops of vibrant reds and blues.

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White oxford shirt, ombre peacoat, dark navy trousers, ombre envelope clutch

From the colors and concepts, the perception of a man’s life, conjuring up ideas of travel, what he may have owned or collected, how he dressed, all started to come together. There is a lot of versatility here, the ability to mix and match. The collection offers a lot of separates and special pieces many men would definitely want to incorporate as part of their wardrobe.

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White oxford shirt, olive waxed field jacket, dark navy trousers, ombre scarf, black waxed gear bag, & black waxed zip-top tote

Again, the F/W season tells a story about a romantic, wandering traveler interested in the world around him. The introduction of an ombre pattern pays homage to the traditional palette of fall foliage, while the addition of earth tones ground the contrast between crisp whites and rich navies.

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Printed white shirt & blue wool cargo pant

These are some great, intriguing pieces, with a clear inspiration here. And each look in the collection goes perfectly with this story. I’m always impressed by Ernest Alexander and am very much eager to see more and more from them every season!

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Blue wool bomber & blue wool cargo pant

Special thanks & credits for the presentation —

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Striped cotton shirt, navy wool trousers, burgundy waxed car coat, & taupe leather belt