Lucio Castro Presents “Ubu Roi”

ubu_roiLucio Castro FW15

Blue/red/black “Chinese Fingers cuff” tee shirt, khaki nylon jacket with leather collar, & grey checkered trousers

Lucio Castro was another menswear presenter for NYMD, held at Industria Superstudio, presented by Cadillac. And his concept for F/W 2015 was Ubu Roi, an hypnotic made for TV movie by Jean-Christophe Averty, airing back in 1965. The film was based on the revolutionary play by Alfred Jarry, considered by some a first sign of modernism.

Lucio Castro FW15

Mac jacket painted by Sadie Laska on muslin, black/charcoal novelty stitch wool turtle neck, & black cotton stretch winter chinos

So why this movie? The designer was captured by the tensions between seriousness and playfulness from the film; it was innovative and primitive. There was also a sense of alluring repetition that is especially relevant now with the extensive use of GIFs & memes. There are a lot of great, unique pieces in this collection. Artist collaborator Sadie Laska worked wonders here, really increasing the level of appeal for these looks.

Lucio Castro FW15

Blue/red/black “Chinese Finger Cuffs” sweatshirt & navy checkered trousers

Castro took the deep red found in the velvet capes of kings, and used it in repetitive patterns on the designer’s Italian-made fabrics. The sweaters here also have signature stitches that are Dadaist and 3D. This collection is still right in line with the designer’s signature aesthetics, still anchored in effortless and masculine “invisible uniform” that they always have strove for.

Lucio Castro FW15

Caramel checkered shirt, purple heather sweatshirt, & grey sweater pants

These looks are wearable works of art. Men donning them would be eye-catching and only in the positive sense of the word. There is a great use of color here, traditional f/w colors of navy blues and burgundies. But it’s also refreshing to see some lighter, airy colors with pops of tropical green and burnt orange.

Lucio Castro FW15

Royal red checkered long sleeve knit, royal red novelty stitch sweater, & royal red checkered pants.

And another great aspect, there is quite a bit to take in, lots of pieces, light layering, with sweaters, outerwear, turtlenecks, and more.

Lucio Castro FW15

Blue heather chunky sweatshirt, blue nylon jacket with leather collar, and navy wool bonded shorts

Show credits —

Lucio Castro FW15

Caramel block printed “Joker” shirt & navy blue knit suit

Lucio Castro FW15

Red on red “Uba Spiral” embroidered sweatshirt, Charcoal Dada tee, & Khaki cotton/stretch winter chinos

Lucio Castro FW15

Black sweatshirt painted by Sadie Laska and black cotton/stretch winter chinos

Great work here from Lucio Castro, impressive and boldly unique — I love it!!

Lucio Castro FW15

Grey “Dada” short sleeve tee over grey Dada long sleeve tee and khaki cotton/stretch winter chinos

Lucio Castro FW15Navy checkered blazer, black checkered shirt, & navy/grey “Chinese Fingers cuffs” knit trousers

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