Running the Gamut for Designer Aesthetics

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Nicholas K. & Mongol, 2 phenomenal shows, with designers who have vastly different aesthetics. However, each presented very clear designer POVs, complete with a great deal of stunning looks! The runway shows for NYFW were at MBFW, Lincoln Center. So first up, let’s check out Nicholas K.!

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Siblings Nicholas and Christopher Kunz found inspiration in “The Cabinet of Dr. Caligari,” a 1920 German silent horror film. “It’s very distorted,” said Nicholas, citing its Expressionist themes and stylized sets. “If you watch it now, it actually looks very modern.” I’ve not seen this film, but I can see a modernized take on Nicholas K.’s signature with this driven inspiration of the 20s film.

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The duo’s dark, brooding beauties strutted the runway in long, capelike knits, floor-length coats with fur collars, sheer silk dresses in hand-dyed labyrinth prints and aviator skullcaps. Leather and hardware accented the draped separates, mostly in black and brown tinged with pops of red and burgundy.

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Nicholas K. has distinct signatures, one such being the eye-catching details of a given piece. So no, the brand is not just about your average everyday black asymmetrical coat. They really do pay attention to even the tiniest of details — leather straps, gloves, outerwear snaps, jewelry, and more.

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Nicholas K. is all about the “urban nomad”, creating looks made for movement, a journey, traveling, and performance in step with the 21st-century consumer. The vision here has always been to have a more relevant approach to fashion. And with the utilitarian brilliance of uniforms, inventing a new platform of luxurious everyday sportswear with an urban edge has thus been created. This is exactly what this collection embodies, only escalating it all to the next level. Nicholas K. is continuously evolving and I’m glad that season in, season out, I am able to witness this evolution!

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Celebs & special guests in attendance — CEO of CFDA Steven Kolb, Lizzy Plapinger, Natalie Bergman, Shaun Ross, Irina Pantaeva, Eric West, Pete Wentz, George Kotsiopoulos, Kristen Taekman.

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Next up, Mongol!

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Born in Mongolia, stylish ‘It Girl’, Bayarmaa Bayarkhuu (affectionately known as BB) showed love for her Mongolian heritage with a debut collection filled with colorful, daring, and dynamic clothing. The show opened with an artistic performance featuring a musician playing the morin khuur, a traditional Mongolian bowed stringed instrument, and was later joined by a hip-hop singer creating a dramatic intro to the anticipated collection. The pieces here perfectly encapsulated tradition, luxury and casual comfort, a true fusion of fashion, style and culture.

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The inspiration here is clear. It’s straight from “traditional Mongolian costumes combined with [the] urban casual as well as [the] entrepreneur lifestyle.” Despite a traditional garb style inspriation, Bayarkhuu maintained contemporary fashion trends with the use of laser-cut applique overlays, geometric cutouts, and sequins. The pieces featured ornate fabrics in opulent colors that included turquoise, amethyst, sapphire and emerald to accentuate the raw materials used.

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The collection featured fur-trimmed kimonos, lamb fur boleros/coats, cut-outs, cashmere, embroidered silk, leather, and more. Draping over the shoulder was a common theme throughout. There were unique fabrics that included PVC and artistic laser-cut appliqué overlays.

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This presentation was well thought out. Each look was not only fascinatingly unique, but was styled with great accessories! The jewelry, the eyewear, headpieces, and more made this runway all the more show-stopping.

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I’m impressed by BB’s debut here. The quality, the craftsmanship, tailoring, fit and all were supremely top notch. With each piece there was such a regal quality, some with more flare than others, but a great balance of drama and understated pieces. From start to finish, this was indeed a full on, completely captivating show!

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Celebs & special guests in attendance — DJ Alex Merrell, model Taylor Badgley, designer Ben Schulman, Lily Lane, Cory Kennedy, Kendall Schmidt, Lauren Rae Levy, Andrew Werner, Producer Ten Travis, model Jessica Minh Anh, Gregori Lukas, Mr. India Galaxy Prakash Patil.

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Costello Tagliapietra — Plaids & Suspenders

 

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Red plum folded front dress with cartridge pleated skirt

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Fawn suspender dress with red plaid funnel neck

For Fall 2015, Costello Tagliapetra presented RTW fashion during their runway show at Lincoln Center, Pavilion. A great deal was all about some plaids and/or suspenders. And hey, I’m convinced; I’m a believer! Everything was very stylized and clearly driven towards the brand’s signature aesthetic. So it was nice seeing a bit of re-interpretation and transition for this Fall 2015 season.

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Bark jacket & gaucho

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Plum collared shirt & navy trousers

Costello Tagliapietra was specifically thinking about ways in which they could re-interpret their design work, to reflect upon themselves, going even back into one’s own history. So with this collection, imagine this — “A forest trail leads to a lone house deep in the woods. SHE is making her way there!”

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Fawn & bark funnel neck dress

So of course as this fashionable lady is making her trek, she would desire some very specific attire. The brand composed plaids by building up layers of colored grids. Then, thru threading lines of yarn over and across each other, these intricate plaids were created. And then of course as I mentioned, besides lots of plaid-work, there are also many suspenders’ looks, as well as some super chic dresses.

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Slate haltered dress

This collection truly evokes the colors, smells, and sounds one would stumble upon while deep in the forested trails, being grounded to the earth. But there is a sense of something more, something magical and unknown. The color palette is then derived from photography of woods and forests, abstracts, painting in watercolor, using this to map out the tones and hues for these pieces, setting the mood! Colors seen are deep burgundies, mint green, navy blue, olive green, and more.

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Dark spruce crepe pant & slate green shirt with floral embroidery

This collection is full of RTW, lots of base, staple pieces needed for any wardrobe. But all in all, it is still very thought provoking. It does leave something to the imagination, captivating you from start to finish!

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Bronze woven cardigan wrap dress

Celebs making an appearance — model Cory Kennedy, Nigel & wife Cristen barker, Miss J alexander, actress Shanola Hampton, Leigh Lezark of the Misshapes; Natalie Bergman; Pete Wentz of Fall Out Boy & actress Crystal Dickinson.

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Show credits —

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  • Fragrance/Scent — MiN NY — “To score this beautiful production, we composed an original fragrance inspired by Costello Tagliapietra’s mood boards for the collection. Using our OLD SCHOOL BENCH MiN NY SCENT STORIES, volume 1, as a base, notes of bergamot, angelica root, green grass, lily of the valley, wood wax, rum, cedar wood, vanilla, patchouli, veriver roots, and bay will greet you upon arrival and farewell.”

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Forest green satin cape dress

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Fawn & bark crossover V-neck dress with red plaid funnel neck

  • Sound Designer — Erich Bechtel & Alex Herrin of Audible Difference Inc
  • Photography — Randy Brooke
  • Videography — B Productions

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Pine crepe pant and  hand stitched vest with midnight hand stitched plaid shirt

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Plum jacket & gaucho

  • Models & Agencies — APM NY, Fenton, Fusion, NY Models, Major, Marilyn Agency, Silent, Wilhelmina, Mc2, Click, & W360.

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Hand stitched plaid shell & tweed pant

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Rose wrap front dress

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Plum hand-stitched plaid shell & plum satin pleaded circle skirt