Hickey Freeman Sportswear – The Inaugural Collection

HICKEY_FREEMAN_LOOK 11B-2 bomber jacket in calfskin. Donegal flecked silk and cotton windowpane trouser in deep navy. Sport shirt in washed chambray.

Hickey Freeman debuted its F/W 2015 collection at NYMD, held at Industria Superstudio and presented by Cadillac. David Hart, creative director, found inspiration in the early days of American aviation. References include the modernist photojournalist, Willi Ruge’s, iconic imagery of parachuting and skydiving in the early 20th Century. The collection is built around today’s modern man and his evolving needs.

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M-1943 field jacket in deep navy reverse slub twill with soft donegal trousers. Dress shirt in blue oxford cloth.

With Hickey Freeman’s 110-year history, Hart’s collection expands on the brand’s current pillars – tailoring and dress shirting – and introduces new items into the modern luxury vernacular. Today’s man no longer wears a suit on a daily basis and needs transitional wardrobe staples to take him from the office to the gym, social activities, travel, and beyond. You can see that in this collection with a vast array of textiles and types of apparel. The collection provides this important capability to take the man from work to streetwear to more formal wear.

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Oxblood 2 ply cashmere saddle shoulder sweater with French terry sweatpants in oxblood. Cotton dress shirt in deep navy thick and thin fleck.

The collection features nods to military decoration from leather and shearling bombers, to a reverse twill field jacket. The palate is based around rich neutrals, accented with vibrant colors in the Irish Donegal fisherman’s sweaters or with the texture of the twisted slub yarn sport shirts. The colors and tones are quite appealing – great mix of neutrals in navy blue, brown, and black, to vibrant pops of color in yellow or burgundy.

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Peacoat in Donegal Tweed with Cowichan zip front sweater. Selvedge denim in raw indigo. Knit shirt in cotton slub jersey.

Hickey Freeman was founded in 1900 by Jeremiah G. Hickey and Jacob L. Freeman, and has stood for excellence in the men’s tailoring category for over 110 years. David Hart joined the Hickey Freeman legacy in November 2014, and has been tasked with introducing a modern sportswear collection with a youthful expression of luxury for the Hickey Freeman man. Hart is a New York luxury menswear designer who founded his eponymous label in 2009 as a tie business. Hart has since introduced ready-to-wear, showing his collection at New York Fashion Week. Hart has shown how versatile he is as designer between these 2 menswear brands.

HICKEY_FREEMAN_LOOK-7Selvedge denim jacket with Irish fisherman’s sweater in antique gold. Deep navy merino knit polo shirt with gaberdine trousers in deep navy.

The Hickey Freeman Sportswear collection will feature sweaters, knitwear, sport shirts, outerwear, soft coats, casual trousers, and denim. There is a great deal of layering and the capability to mix and match pieces. Both of these are admirable and desired qualities for a menswear brand and collection.

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Waxed canvas pilot blazer in jet black. Selvedge denim pants in raw black. Brushed twill sport shirt in jet black multi plaid.

Show credits –

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Logo sweatshirt in heather grey French loop terry. Cargo pants in faded lichen reverse slub twill with cotton dress shirt in white oxford.

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Shirt Jacket in silk and wool Donegal windowpane. Trousers in deep navy cotton twill with French loop terry sweatshirt.

  • Models & Agencies – Re-quest, Red, Adam, Hello, Fusion, Q Models, 1.One, & Wilhelmina

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Waxed cotton canvas English raincoat with cotton and silk plaid hunting jacket. Washed selvedge denim in faded grey. Cotton sport shirt with flecked yarn.

Jordan Tesfay & Models Unite — #curvygirlsrock

Jordan Tesfay, known for being the first full-figured fashion model to become a COVERGIRL, recently hosted a major Fashion Week party. The event was an opening cocktail reception at Bait & Hook. Delicious cupcakes. Live music. Stunning jewelry. A nice ambiance. And of course, being a model event and all, some beautiful, sexy models! What more could you ask for?!? This was such a great event. I was happy to have been invited. Here are some images and additional details on the event and about some of the amazingly talented individuals in attendance.

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DSC00946Here, Jordan is on the red carpet with Blessing Offor, recent contestant on NBC’s hit singing competition show The Voice. He was also the provider of the live music for the event.

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Also in attendance was J.W. Cortes from Fox’s hit new show, one of my personal faves, Gotham. J.W. was a treat to meet, such a humble, nice guy!

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And of course, Ricky Jarman, always a pleasure spending time with this burgeoning singer/songwriter, model, and actor — a true triple threat.

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Bait & Switch provided the refreshing spirits, but it was Kay Martin of Cupcake Kay who whipped up the scrumptious cupcakes!

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Compassion Brands showcased some gorgeous jewelry pieces at the event. The brand makes fashion more than just a trend. They have decided to take a charitable stance, truly empowering the message of “What you wear can make a difference.” Remember, the new trend is kindness!

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Again, such a great event, amazing time of fun, food, music, networking, and more! Jordan Tesfay should be proud of this smashing reception, a real success!

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SAUNDER Fuses Historical Literature with Fashion

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Looks left to right — Mantle dress in orange & navy; Aragon dress with Dalmatian Bomber

SAUNDER, designer Emily Saunders, presented its A/W 2015 collection at Ed’s Chowder House at The Empire Hotel. Her looks are tributes to Hilary Mandel’s historical novels “Wolf Hall” and “Bring up the Bodies”, both telling the behind the scenes story of Henry the VIII’s split from his 1st wife Catherine and subsequent split with Rome.

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Rochford skirt & Flight Jacket

The collection is rich and textured with many nods to traditional Anglo fabrics such as tweeds and tartans. The silhouettes sway from romantic and feminine to masculine tailoring, tied together by a thoroughly modern take on Tudor fashions and times.

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Lady dress in eggplant

There are some stunning jewelry/accessories pieces that have been styled with these various looks. MEGAN ISAACS for SAUNDER marks the fourth collaboration with the accessories designer. Also inspired by the fashions and times of Henry the VIII, there is a focus on mixing textures and materials using hematite, pearl, and stud, like motifs in gold, silver, and gunmetal plating.

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King of Hearts dress

There are a lot of eye-catching prints throughout this collection. The pieces are also infused with colors and tones that work well with the underlying concept, but also the a/w season. It’s refreshing seeing pops of vibrant orange and sunshine yellow. But the rich colors pair well with seasonal faves such as navy blue, olive green, and black.

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Castle sweater

Emily has always had a deep love of art, travel, and fashion. This always enriches her work, giving her such a unique take. SAUNDER is committed to quality craftsmanship, and you can see that in every piece. She sticks to her signature work here, encapsulating the essence of femininity, but with quirky eclectic twists.

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Plaid blouse & skirt

Emily saw the stage adaptations of these historical novels while in England this past summer. She was thoroughly inspired and decided to create her own fashion adaptions. She has done an amazing job here making these tales come to life, fashion-wise. There are looks from a more RTW stance to that of more formal pieces. These are some beautiful creations that modern, romantic fashionistas would be thrilled to wear!

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Boleyn gown in yellow

Presentation credits —

  • Models & Agencies — One Management, APM, Major Models, Red, Marilyn Agency, Q Models, & Click

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Blue slouch trousers, tie neck blouse, and spike studded jacket

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Pearl raglan top & aragon skirt

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Heraldic gown

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Wolsey dress in black

 

David Hart & the Wild, Wild West

DAVID HARTAnd no, this is not about the Will Smith song or movie! It is just about the bold designer’s take for A/W 2015, inspired by the American Southwest and Spaghetti Western films of the late 60s. David Hart presented his era-themed presentation for NYMD, held at Industria Superstudio and presented by Cadillac.

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Double breasted suit in desert tan English lambswool & Chambray shirt with silk foulard bandana

Hart states he was inspired by “Hollywood’s glorification of the American West during the 19th century, and how it was adapted for the screen during that era. The inspiration here reads loud & clear. The nod to the historical era is present, but it has been translated in a modern fashion.

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Black western English silk tuxedo jacket in black with wooly pants in black Tibetan lamb and turtleneck in merino wool

This collection is a polished vision of the Western era with some real nods to real western workwear, authentic 19th century prints, and stylized Western prints from the 1960s. The colors are very vibrant for the F/W seasons, very refreshing to see — cayenne reds, rich browns, crisp oranges, all paired with some more traditional seasonal hues, navy & burgundy.

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Zip front Cowichan sweater with Donegal tweed trousers, floral print cotton dress shirt, & silk cowboy print bandana

This is fun fashion to me, for menswear. It has a clear theme, but it doesn’t cross the costume-y line. And I love seeing how David Hart has worked his inspiration into his signature aesthetic, mainly working with his bold, dynamic suits.

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Fine gauge button front merino polo shirt in cayenne red, trousers in brown English wool flannel, cotton Oxford dress shirt, and silk cowboy print bandana

Show credits —

  • Casting, Styling, & Production — Jahn Hall
  • Lighting — Avon
  • Hair — Oribe, lead by Kien Hoang
  • Music — Xavier Ames

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Embroidered featherwale corduroy jacket in cayenne red, navy English mohair trousers, cream cotton Oxford shirt, & silk cowboy print bandana

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Fine gauge button front merino polo shirt in navy, silk cowboy print shirt, & silk Foulard bandana

  • Models & Agencies — Re-Quest Model Management, Red, Adam Models, Hello, Fusion, Q Models, 1.One, & Wilhelmina

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Suit in turquoise English lambswool with cotton floral print dress shirt and silk cowboy print bandana

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Suit in blue/cayenne iridescent English mohair with a Chambray western shirt and silk Foulard bandana

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Suit in desert fuchsia English lambswool with silk paisley print dress shirt and silk bandana

Desigual — La Vida es Chula!!

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Looks left to right — Freehand watercolor print chiffon blouse & abstract watercolor print stiff satin pencil skirt; Primitive floral & abstract watercolor drop waist jersey dress; & Trompe-l’ceil floral tapestry motif mesh blouse and skater skirt with multi-hued pom-pom hat

MBFW — Theater @ Lincoln Center

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Front 2 looks, left to right — Embroidered folk print woven overcoat & Over-sized Scandinavian print wool-knit tunic

Desigual is always a super fun runway show to attend and this season the brand certainly didn’t disappoint! For Fall 2015, Desigual and Monsieur Christian Lacroix celebrate the world of creativity. Fashion’s ‘It Girls’ got in on the action as well with Harley Viera-Newton who served as music consultant and Langley Fox Hemingway, whose designs were interpreted by Desigual to serve as the backdrop and runway floor.

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Abstract geometries multi-hued shift dress with watercolor print clutch

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Abstract ink stripe jersey A-line dress with baroque motif satchel bag

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Black turtleneck crop top & colorful naive circle motif print pencil skirt

Fall 2015 was inspired by the creative process of putting a collection together, and is a tribute to what happens in the design atelier. Abstract paintings, upholstery swatches, photographs of Africa, a voyage to northern Europe, and a landscape full of flowers are the root of the design inspiration: One that is full of creativity and originality.

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Graphic floral print skirt & button-up tank blouse

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Multi-hued shaggy pullover sweater and midnight blue & teal Baroque-motif vinyl pencil skirt

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The collection featured geometric motifs in black and white, multi-colored cardigans with a Scandinavian feel, and structured dresses dipped in watercolors. Floral skirts in printed tulle make up the line alongside cocoon coats in true Lacroix style. The result is an eclectic and sophisticated mix that’s sure to catch the eye of women everywhere. Other highlights from the collection are multi-hued embroideries, oriental carpet motifs, and baroque tapestries woven into vivid abstraction.

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Graphic floral print long-sleeved dress

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Baroque floral print A-line shift dress

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Black & white Cubist geometries sleeveless shift dress with faux-fur pom-pom hat

This is a global world we live in and Desigual wants you to dress like it! This collection is a reflection of a crossroads of culture coming together, where folk crafts, lush landscapes, and works of art from the North, South, East, & West all meet. Thru black and white geometric pieces, multi-color patterns from various cultures across the globe, and distinct fabric textiles speaks the brand’s motto “La Vida es Chula”, life is cool.

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Abstract ink stripe faux-fur tunic dress & patterned woven trousers

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Black & mustard Baroque embroidered coat with quilted sleeves with Baroque floral print handbag

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The mood is anchored by bursts of medieval gemstones, contemporary paintings, and exotic flower bouquets, all rendered on printed tulles, jacquards, embossed hair, and duchess satin. Craftsmanship ties together the spirit of the many cultures set deep within the silhouettes. Just as Monsieur Lacroix exudes, “Desigual embodies the multiplicity of a woman, and women everywhere.” Women share the pleasure for living, taste for beauty and art, and joy in using fashion as self-expression. Every season is a new opportunity for Desigual to offer its a way of thinking, inevitably influenced by the Mediterranean, the sun, light, passion, and a lust for life.

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Mixed Nordic-print pullover sweater and abstract floral stiff satin tulip skirt with Jade pom-pom hat

When history and the world intertwine, that’s what we’ll wear in F/W 2015! Desigual’s current brand ambassador, model Chantelle Winnie (ANTM Cycle 21 contestant), walked the runway along with supermodel, Behati Prinsloo.

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Baroque floral print sleeveless shift dress

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Renaissance floral stiff satin jumpsuit with floral embroidery shoulder sash

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Colorful naive circle motif sleeveless shift dress with black & white naive circle motif satchel bag

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Freeform graphic print jersey A-line dress with burgundy carryall tote

Special celebs & guests in attendance — Katie Holmes, DJ Harley Viera-Newton, model Langley Fox, model Adriana Lima, model Lena Gercke, actress Pauline Lefevre, DJ Mademoiselle Yulia, Rocsi Diaz, Catherine Guidici, Stassi Schroeder, Nana Merriweather, Nigel & Cristen Barker, and Managing Director of Desigual Manel Jadraque.

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Special credits —

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Tadashi Shoji — Remarkably Timeless Beauty

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MBFW — Salon @ Lincoln Center

463283214.jpg_5_0_2996_1994There just aren’t enough words to describe how glorious this F/W 2015 collection is. Tadashi Shoji has really outdone himself here. I wouldn’t dream of elongating this piece by the use of words. I really want to let the images do the talking because that is just how breathtaking these dresses are. But I will provide a few details at least on the designer’s concept and inspiration for the collection.

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Black hand cut tulle & silk organza feathered strapless gown with an embroidered applique pleated bodice.

463277892.jpg_325_0_1668.28358209_3000Navy/nude embroidered tulle gown with sheer illusion insets

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Black bateau neck swing cape top and black crepe floor length skirt

The inspiration here was the joy of flight — the intersection between aircraft mechanics and winged flight, finding the muse piloting the avian highways. Spinning wings of propellers starting to hum. Metal gears beginning their rotational motion. This and more make up the concept behind these lovely gowns.

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Grape/nude sleeveless feather motif embroidered applique full skirt tulle gown

463278336.jpg_350_0_1796.71641791_3231Deep green feather motif applique bodice with full tulle skirt

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Black feather motif sheer overlay gown

Painted with the ivory brushstrokes of windswept clouds, sparkling skies, birds gliding majestically, dancing on air currents with graceful wing beats, that is the journey to be taken with this collection. Airplane mechanics influence the allover metallic embroideries of copper, gold, and silver burnish luxe knits, while feathered wing motifs can be found in sheer lace and tactile embellishments.

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Taupe tulle halter gown with gear motif embroidered applique and hardware embellishments

463278610.jpg_312_0_1600.20895522_2877Deep green lace applique bodice with full tulle skirt

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Ivory/black pleated Georgette strapless gown with beaded feather motif embroidered applique

A monochromatic palette of black, ivory, and navy transitions to semio-paque hues created from bi-color layering of diaphanous tulles. The ethereal silhouettes evoke a feeling of weightlessness. As if mused by the wind, feathers of frayed-edge silk organza and hand-cut tulle create lighter than air gowns and floor-length capes, dipping to dreamier depths. Aerial views inspire the textures of custom designed jacquards.

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Ivory hand cut tulle & silk organza feathered tea-length dress with pockets and embroidered bodice

463276472.jpg_381_0_1955.32835821_3516Navy tiered faux fur illusion neck shift dress with crystal hardware embellishments

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Black oversized tiered faux fur jacket with crystal hardware embellishments

So remember, soar into the upper breaches of the atmosphere where you can be free from the forces of gravity, orbiting the uncharted skies, a sky voyager finding her bliss. I love these pieces. They are very much red carpet ready & worthy, and would very much like to see them in the future!

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Copper/black bateau neck metallic embroidered tulle gown with pockets

463278396.jpg_339_0_1740.49253731_3130Steel/navy gear motif embroidered panel bodice gown with tulle skirt

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Grape/nude tulle gown with gear motif embroidered applique and hardware embellishments

Show credits —

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Navy lace applique bodice with full tulle skirt

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Special celeb guests in attendance were blogger Courtney Kerr, Lloyd Blossom, singer Kesha, Miss J Alexander, actress Song Jia, Li Sun, actress Liu Yun, & actress Yang Zishan.

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Ivory crepe sleeveless top & black hand cut tulle with silk organza feathered short skirt

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Grape/black metallic embroidered lace dirndl gown with gathered illusion tulle neck and pockets

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Lucio Castro Presents “Ubu Roi”

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Blue/red/black “Chinese Fingers cuff” tee shirt, khaki nylon jacket with leather collar, & grey checkered trousers

Lucio Castro was another menswear presenter for NYMD, held at Industria Superstudio, presented by Cadillac. And his concept for F/W 2015 was Ubu Roi, an hypnotic made for TV movie by Jean-Christophe Averty, airing back in 1965. The film was based on the revolutionary play by Alfred Jarry, considered by some a first sign of modernism.

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Mac jacket painted by Sadie Laska on muslin, black/charcoal novelty stitch wool turtle neck, & black cotton stretch winter chinos

So why this movie? The designer was captured by the tensions between seriousness and playfulness from the film; it was innovative and primitive. There was also a sense of alluring repetition that is especially relevant now with the extensive use of GIFs & memes. There are a lot of great, unique pieces in this collection. Artist collaborator Sadie Laska worked wonders here, really increasing the level of appeal for these looks.

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Blue/red/black “Chinese Finger Cuffs” sweatshirt & navy checkered trousers

Castro took the deep red found in the velvet capes of kings, and used it in repetitive patterns on the designer’s Italian-made fabrics. The sweaters here also have signature stitches that are Dadaist and 3D. This collection is still right in line with the designer’s signature aesthetics, still anchored in effortless and masculine “invisible uniform” that they always have strove for.

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Caramel checkered shirt, purple heather sweatshirt, & grey sweater pants

These looks are wearable works of art. Men donning them would be eye-catching and only in the positive sense of the word. There is a great use of color here, traditional f/w colors of navy blues and burgundies. But it’s also refreshing to see some lighter, airy colors with pops of tropical green and burnt orange.

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Royal red checkered long sleeve knit, royal red novelty stitch sweater, & royal red checkered pants.

And another great aspect, there is quite a bit to take in, lots of pieces, light layering, with sweaters, outerwear, turtlenecks, and more.

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Blue heather chunky sweatshirt, blue nylon jacket with leather collar, and navy wool bonded shorts

Show credits —

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Caramel block printed “Joker” shirt & navy blue knit suit

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Red on red “Uba Spiral” embroidered sweatshirt, Charcoal Dada tee, & Khaki cotton/stretch winter chinos

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Black sweatshirt painted by Sadie Laska and black cotton/stretch winter chinos

Great work here from Lucio Castro, impressive and boldly unique — I love it!!

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Grey “Dada” short sleeve tee over grey Dada long sleeve tee and khaki cotton/stretch winter chinos

Lucio Castro FW15Navy checkered blazer, black checkered shirt, & navy/grey “Chinese Fingers cuffs” knit trousers

Ernest Alexander’s Wandering Traveler

NYFW is here! One always fun-filled day for me is NYMD, a packed day with lots of designers showcasing some bold, dynamic menswear presentations. NYMD is held at Industria Superstudios, and is presented by Cadillac. One brand I always look forward to seeing is Ernest Alexander. And for F/W 2015, the concept is “A Wandering Traveler.”

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Plaid gingham trousers & scarf, waxed jacket, ash leather messenger bag

For F/W 2015, Ernest Alexander celebrates the exploration and discoveries of a curious voyager. And with a great reminding message — it’s the journey itself that truly is the reward! And trust, this collection is very much a reward in and of itself!

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Printed work-shirt, dark navy blazer, brown wool topcoat, dark navy trouser, silk necktie, & block print scarf

The inspiration for this collection stemmed from a cabin retreat in upstate NY. The cabin house environment was a huge source of inspiring ideas — sculptured pieces, southwestern photographs, lots of Aztec motifs, rich colors found in both the cabin and the outdoors. The color story here is vital to the collection, giving us lots of deep olives, warm browns, and pops of vibrant reds and blues.

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White oxford shirt, ombre peacoat, dark navy trousers, ombre envelope clutch

From the colors and concepts, the perception of a man’s life, conjuring up ideas of travel, what he may have owned or collected, how he dressed, all started to come together. There is a lot of versatility here, the ability to mix and match. The collection offers a lot of separates and special pieces many men would definitely want to incorporate as part of their wardrobe.

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White oxford shirt, olive waxed field jacket, dark navy trousers, ombre scarf, black waxed gear bag, & black waxed zip-top tote

Again, the F/W season tells a story about a romantic, wandering traveler interested in the world around him. The introduction of an ombre pattern pays homage to the traditional palette of fall foliage, while the addition of earth tones ground the contrast between crisp whites and rich navies.

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Printed white shirt & blue wool cargo pant

These are some great, intriguing pieces, with a clear inspiration here. And each look in the collection goes perfectly with this story. I’m always impressed by Ernest Alexander and am very much eager to see more and more from them every season!

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Blue wool bomber & blue wool cargo pant

Special thanks & credits for the presentation —

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Striped cotton shirt, navy wool trousers, burgundy waxed car coat, & taupe leather belt

Dramatizon Make-up Presents — Ice Kings & Queens

10920935_10152660696833546_2388380923929450778_nIt was my distinct pleasure and honor to attend, for the 2nd year in a row, a wintry fashion show like no other — Ice Kings & Queens! Tawni Michelle of Dramatizon Make-up, Tawni’s own business, was the creative mind and talent who conceived and developed this magical winter wonderland. The entire show, from start to finish, was stunningly mind-blowing. It was a great night indeed! Before I get to the specifics, here are some other important show credits that helped to make the entire event possible —

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Whether male or female, Tawni did a spectacular job, creating some eye-catching artistry thru make-up design. Every detail was thought out. The winter colors of deep blue, dark purple, crisp white, and more were 100% on point. I’m thoroughly impressed by how imaginative Tawni is. She definitely did not disappoint and I’m already counting down to whatever her next presentation might be!

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And of course, the striking and boldly designed hair for this show, above and beyond, and completely mesmerizing. The intricacies, the details, the work that Fallon has put in here was top-notch.

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I’m not sure there are enough words to explain how great Fallon’s hair design was this year. Each look was so unique and so captivating from every angle. The Tawni & Fallon team for these shows are no doubt the very definition of a dynamic duo.

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Fallon too has her own hair design business, but she also works as a hair stylist with Vidov Salon. So if you are ever in need of your own chic, stylish up-do, I’m sure she would love to assist!

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Another exciting moment of the evening was being able to see the insanely talented and gorgeous GinaMarie Zimmerman. It’s been great getting to know more about GM since meeting her last year at the show. She is such a kind spirit and she has been doing some great things since her 2nd place win and stint on CBS’s hit summer reality show, Big Brother. She has been modeling, acting, working on her music, and so much more.

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A recent film she took part in, Piranha Sharks, and you can also check out her hot dance-track Open Book.

10898082_10152692753208546_8223807944053554666_nAlso, remember each model for the showing is donning some exquisitely unique and custom lingerie pieces, courtesy of Gigi Carnett! GinaMarie is definitely workin’ these pieces!

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I am also very happy to have met another new friend from this event, another multi-talented model Ricky Jarman. He not only can work the runway and photo-shoots, but he also acts and is too working on his music career. I recently checked him out at his live show at the historic Bitter End here in NYC, and wow, I’m impressed! At the end of March he will be releasing an album, The Pursuit, co-produced by DJ Kodzu.

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I urge you all to check him out online and across social media — Facebook, Twitter, YouTube, and more. Also, check out some of his hot music videos, two of my faves “Do It” and “Make It Happen.”

FB_IMG_1422585782664If I haven’t said it enough, this Tawni/Dramatizon original presentation was phenomenal. It was fun for one evening to be whisked away into a winter wonderland fantasy. Here are some more photos of the event and photo credits for the photos throughout my post.

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PHOTO CREDITS

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PR All-Star Designers Roll the Dice

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This week on Project Runway All-Stars, the stakes were high as the designers rolled the dice, taking on a fashion gamble. The gamble being it was the roll of the dice that would set-up each designer’s challenge details for the week. One dice encompassed fabric, the other for what occasion the designers would be creating for. So the runway became a gambling table and each designer made their rolls.

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The order of the rolls truly made no difference this week, but Fabio having won last week took his turn first. Then each designer unnecessarily chose who would roll next, leaving Dmitry to go last. Here is what everyone was set to create for the week —

  • Fabio — Masquerade Ball look, made of denim
  • Sonjia — Bachelorette Party look, made of brocade
  • Samantha — Awards Ceremony outfit, made of brocade
  • Michelle — Gallery Opening piece, made of lace
  • Justin — Gallery Opening look, made of silk
  • Helen — Another Awards Ceremony ensemble, made of brocade, unofficial fashion face-off with Samantha
  • Gunnar — Masquerade Ball look, made of brocade
  • Jay — Sunday Brunch outfit, made of denim
  • Dmitry — Gallery Opening piece, made of velvet

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After sketch-time, the designers were off to Mood with a budget of $150. There were lots of brocade looks this week and also a few fabric concerns. Dmitry was quite unhappy with having to work with velvet. I wholeheartedly understand, not a fan of velvet myself! Everyone was then back to the workroom to begin this 1-day challenge. Work began with a little bit of fun & play at the QVC accessory wall, but that quickly faded this week as some claws started to come out!

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I found only 2 aspects of this episode intriguing or interesting. The results ended up being predictable, but I was interested to see how the judges would formulate the top & bottom 3. But the other intriguing aspect was seeing some drama this week. Hey, now I would rather an episode be great because there was a bunch of truly phenomenal looks that graced the runway. But that didn’t happen in this episode so I was only left to enjoy some drama!

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First up, there was Sonjia v. most of the designers. Apparently the fabric she wanted to work with was not a brocade. Now Sonjia said it was in the brocade section. And all we saw was the designers voicing their opinions and Sonjia ending up changing her fabric choice. I’m sure the powers that be somehow behind the scenes confirmed that the fabric she initially wanted to use was not brocade. Although just like last week with some Sonjia fabric drama, I’m not sure what all the fuss was about. Neither of her selections this week were worthy of such attention.

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The other bit of dramatic tension this week was Helen v. Jay. Helen went over to Jay to offer him some friendly advice, saying his Sunday Brunch look was more akin to that of a club or party girl look. He took offense, overreacting a bit, ending up call her a Beee-yatch! Now on one hand, I agree with Helen in the sense that Jay’s look did not read Sunday Brunch. But waiting to call him out in front of everyone, especially his model, probably not the best timing. Also, this is a competition, if Jay wants to shoot himself in the foot, at this point, let him. And then with Jay, overreaction, but did we really expect anything less. I guarantee the same thing would have happened with pretty much any other designer v. designer scenario. Actually, at least Jay said his response back to her face. Many of the other designers probably would have just saved their reaction for their private sessions, not having the guts to be so vocal and upfront with their response.

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Oddly enough, way less dramatic, was Zanna-time! She added some incentive for the designers, what good that did I’m not sure. But the winning look this week would be worn by Alyssa in an upcoming feature for Marie Claire. She urged the designers to forget about the hands they were dealt and to push forward, to be super creative.

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The judges panel was finally lessened to only 4 judges this week, also seeing a return of Georgina who has been missing for quite a few episodes. The guest judge for the panel was CFDA winner Michael Bastian.

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The top & bottom for the week pretty much made sense. But as I mentioned earlier, I was intrigued to see how the top & bottom would develop. There easily could have been a few switch-ups and I wouldn’t have been surprised. But let’s look at the top 3 first, although it seemed more like a top 2!

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Sonjia was the winner of the week. I’m not sure I see this as the best look for Alyssa in Marie Claire. But she did just what she was supposed to this week, she designed a sexy look for a Bachelorette Party, made of brocade. This gold fabric to me was quite hideous, in fact, I agreed with Justin; it looked cheap. But somehow, Sonjia actually made this work. I think a different fabric choice would have still been leaps & bounds better with this design, but making it work, where others designers simply did not, this was what led to her win.

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Mary Kay shout-out, love this bold red lip & cat eye! The look was sexy and fun. There was a bit of shimmer giving the outfit a special touch, but I still think Sonjia could have pushed a bit more. This was not her strongest win, but deserved in my book because other designers this week simply failed to step up their game.

Chi Hair Care shout-out, love this fishtail braid!

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Michelle rounded out what I’m only calling a top 2. She could have won, but making the hip area bigger, way wrong move! Only working with lace had to be hard; it’s very sheer. But Michelle worked wonders with layering. And what was even more great about her work this week was that she took some odd color choices and really paired them together to create a very eye-catching piece.

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But as I said, the bigger hip area was the wrong move. I think a more fitted look, maybe even a little shorter would have hit the mark, making Michelle more of a contender for the win. I also think this type of look would be way more fitting for Alyssa in Marie Claire. But with the design choices made, Alyssa must have not been so in love with it. She embraced the fashion gamble this week though, whereas other designers did not, so kudos to her for that.

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The judges then placed Helen in the “top 3”, although from their critique it didn’t sound so lovey-dovey to me. This look was not all bad, but it wasn’t all good. I agreed with Georgina, it had way to much going on. The 2-piece aspect just didn’t work with the slit and the neckline. So not only did she have too much going on, but the elements didn’t work well together.

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A few edits though and Helen too, just like Michelle, could have hit a home-run. She also did a great job with sticking to her challenge details. She had a difficult fabric choice and made it work for not only her look, but the event at hand, an awards ceremony.

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Mary Kay beauty shout-out, gorgeous shimmery eye and subtle red lip. But ultimately, what didn’t work for me here was how all of the elements came together; it just made the look less luxe.

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Justin lucked out having been in the bottom 3, but not the bottom 2. Just as with Helen though, the look wasn’t all bad, but did have quite a few things wrong with it. The dress was too short. I didn’t quite see it being such a grand design concept for a gallery opening. The sleeves also didn’t pair well with his choice of neckline. And I agreed with the judges, the proportion seemed off.

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But the look did have some positives, which is why Justin deservedly was not in the bottom 2. I really liked this print — it was very Justin. The back was gorgeous. And I commend his starting off points. Had the look been longer, drop the sleeves, keep the neckline, BAM! Justin would have already been way better off.

Another Mary Kay Beaut Shout-out — Lots of great, bold red lips this week!

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Fabio ended up in the bottom 2 this week, which was quite a shocker coming off of his win last week. I didn’t think his dress was deserving of such harsh criticism, but I think the judges took some serious offense to his choices for the week. He didn’t embrace working with denim. He chose a fabric that barely even resembled denim. His styling was also way off this week, perhaps a bit too much, the grey eye, the pearl necklaces as a head wrap.

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Isaac took the most offense with Fabio’s work this week, ultimately feeling like Fabio dropped the ball. This part I agree with though. Even had Fabio not been in the bottom, he was only aiming for the safe-zone. He won’t win this season with that attitude so hopefully next week, he steps it back up.

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This left Gunnar rounding out the bottom 3, and ultimately going home this week. This was not a huge surprise. The past few weeks he’s struggled with executing his design concepts. He has some great ideas, but PRAS was not the place for him to allow those ideas to flourish.

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There was just way too much wrong here for him to escape elimination again. The fit was way off. The bodice had no structure to it, very unflattering. He selected some interesting fabric choices and had an intriguing idea, but again, he was not able to execute it. Sad to still see him go though. Gunnar seems like such a great person and I don’t doubt his talent. But time restraints are clearly not his friend!

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