NYFW — Modern, Bold RTW

Eveningwear is always a must-see for the runway, but I too adore seeing some great, modern, trendy RTW looks!

Georgine

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Purple & Green spandex dress

For Spring/Summer 2016, GEORGINE wanted to break traditional dressing protocols and defy the conventional approach of how people normally dress. For instance, leathers are treated in pastels in lieu of the mainstream rugged dark treatment, French laces are cut into sweatshirts and active wear, and spandex is celebrated in eveningwear. The results are subtle and surprising and inline with the Internet age where nothing is ever as it seems. All of this was mesmerizing for me, quite captivating with the color palette and mixed media work.

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Embroidered dress with tan trench

Celebrity Guests: Laverne Cox, actress, “Grandma”, “Orange is the New Black”; Kristen Taekman, The Real Housewives of New York City; Tamaryn, singer “Cranekiss”; Stassi Schroeder, fashion blogger, star of “Vanderpump Rules”; Nigel Barker

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Wanessa green lace dress

Show credits —

Hair: Ric Pipino for Melville Pipino Salon

Make-Up: Gordon Espinet with the MAC Pro Team

Shoes: Go Melissa

Music: Laurent Vacher

Fur: Jonevon Furs

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Embroidered print blouse tip with keyhole tied collar

Jewelry: Patricia von Musulin

Sunglasses: Moscot

PR, Production, & Casting: Mao PR

Hair supplied by Janet Collections

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Embroidered dress with blue half spandex sleeves

Jay Godfrey

(photo credits to Dan Lecca Photography)

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Jay Godfrey’s Spring 2016 is inspired by the work of the late interior designer and architect David Collins. Godfrey’s collection specifically pays tribute to London-based Collins’ use of simplicity, architectural lines, and text to create sensual environments that are simultaneously Contemporary and established. A collection in all white is hard to pull off, hard to be that intriguing. But Jay has done that here with a great mix of looks, separates and dresses. It was clear he had a vision and executed it well.

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While Godfrey, who also works in the interiors milieu, was working on designing a hotel project in Seoul, Korea, he often looked to Collins’ recently released coffee table book, ABCDCS that memorialized the late designer’s work in hotels, restaurants, bars, and private residences. Godfrey was struck by Collins’ use of different shades of white, ivory, alabaster and cream and has created a Spring 2016 show as homage to his work.

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New York-based designer Jay Godfrey is the founder and creative director behind his eponymous collection of sleek, sexy and sophisticated designs. Perpetually inspired by the chic New York woman, Godfrey’s goal as a designer is to meld the classic tailoring techniques of Savile Row with modern silhouettes and luxurious fabrics. The result is his distinctive contemporary collection of dresses and separates that accentuate the female figure. Godfrey describes himself as a minimalist who embraces color in an unmistakably sensual way.

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House of Perna

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Amanda Perna of House of Perna, pictured above, was on this current season of Project Runway. I was a fan!! I saw her work before the show and loved it. I am now seeing her work after the show and I’m still a huge supporter!!

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This collection speaks to femininity and is quite impressive. I was amazed at the clever prints and choices of silhouettes. There are great pops of color and vibrant prints, which make the pieces really stand out.

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Vivienne Tam

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The collection was inspired by the increasingly androgynous nature of fashion in the 20’s and today’s “street” culture. It reflects a contemporary contextualization of art deco design elements, characterized by linear forms, dropped waists, stripes, and angularities translated into relaxed shapes that are reminiscent of the teen surfer/skater culture of the 70’s and nods to modern comfort and ease.

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The collection finds expression in relaxed silhouettes, ribbed knits, crisp cottons, synthesized crepes and techno-mesh layered with hand-crafted embroideries and laser-cut appliqués, combining masculine shapes with feminine embellishments. Graphic black and white, red, sea green, and accents of fluorescent pink and mint green add a modern twist. This was a great collection to witness in person. There was a lot of energy in the room and it was people feeding off of the modern vibe these great pieces were giving off. Another great collection by Tam, congrats!

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NOTABLES GUESTS: Ally Brooke (Musician, Fifth Harmony), Sonia Nassery Cole (Oscar nominated The Black Tulip) Elle Dee (DJ/Model), Thatiana Diaz (Miss New York 2014), Pierson Fode (Actor), Olivia Jordan (Miss USA 2015), Niki Koss (Actress, Girl on the Edge), Ai Li (Actress, The Tenth Floor), Floriana Lima (Actress, The Mob Doctor), Natalie Alyn Lind (Actress, Gotham, The Goldbergs), Vanessa Marano (Actress, Switched at Birth), Mozhan Marno (Actress, House of Cards, The Blacklist), Mercedes Mason (Actress, Fear the Walking Dead), Ryan Newman (Actress), Teyonah Parris (Actress, Survivor’s Remorse, Mad Men), Shu Pei Qin (Supermodel), Vanessa Ray (Actress, Pretty Little Liars, Blue Bloods), Angela Simmons (TV Personality), Serinda Swan (Actress, Graceland), Hairong Tian (Actress, Silent Tears), Paulina Vega (Miss Universe 2014), Carlson Young (Actress, Scream (MTV)), Tashiana Washington (Actress/Singer, Gimme Shelter). Also in attendance: Kelly Bensimon (TV personality), Kimberly Guilfoyle (Fox News, Co-host The Five), Di Mondo, Andrea Tantaros (Fox News, Outnumbered), and more.

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NYFW — All the Shimmer & Shine!

Fashion Week is definitely at times about the glitz and the glam. You will see a great deal of RTW, but the shows with that WOW factor, the extra shimmer & shine, are definitely worth being in attendance at!

Rootstein Launch of the Phillipe Blond Mannequin

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Rootstein, the iconic mannequin company who has been the leader in groundbreaking mannequin manufacturing and changed the standards of the retail display industry for almost 60 years, is proud to announce the release of a visionary new collection of male and female mannequins based on the visage of internationally famous fashion designer Phillipe Blond. This was a super exhilarating presentation. I was totally mesmerized!

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Rootstein representatives elaborate, “In partnering with The Blonds, Rootstein continues its legacy of embracing individuality that captures, reflects and communicates the brilliant transience of fashion at its most beautiful and thrilling.” Throughout the decades, Rootstein has sought out celebrities who have embodied the spirit of their times and sculpted mannequins based on Twiggy, Pat Cleveland, Joan Collins, Susanne Barstch, Erin O¹Connor and Jade Parfit to name a few.

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The event featured an exhibition of the mannequins wearing an archive of The Blonds most memorable runway pieces. Phillipe is beaming with excitement and adds, “The whole process is surreal and magical, like a dream. It is such an honor to join the ranks of so many inspiring icons that have been sculpted for mannequins by Rootstein.”

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Pamella Roland

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Dream come true, that is what I would call attending this show. I was honored to receive an invite. In awe, that is what I felt after seeing these stunning looks grace the runway. This collection was inspired by what was dubbed in the 50s as Post-painterly abstraction by Frank Stella, but not just the visually striking paintings, it was the cultural context in which they were created.

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There was a ton of unorthodox materials used here, plexiglass, PVC Nebula lace, reflective taffeta, and LED fibers, all as a nod to the wave of futurism prevalent in Stella’s early works. The unusual elements are paired with a foundation of gorgeous couture fabrics in streamlined silhouettes, creating a contemporary balance.

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Show credits —

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Once again, this was just such an amazing show to be in attendance at. The magnificence of these various formal and evening wear looks were beyond my expectations. I could see so many as future red carpet contenders and I’m sure we will see a few in the coming latter 2015 award season, as well as the award season for 2016.

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Zimmermann

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Titled “Master and Mischief,” the show mixed the conservative — high, ruffled necklines, corset-like bodices and Victorian bib collars — with the disobedient, in the form of impossibly short, flouncy hemlines. Nicky Zimmermann derived inspiration from Ethel Turner’s 1894 novel “Seven Little Australians” about a group of mischievous siblings.

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The lineup was very youthful, with lace-up backs and sheer embroidery, showing plenty of skin. It was a strong vision executed boldly. I thought this collection had a modern vibe, but still with a vintage appeal. I had a lot of faves that came down the runway!

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NYFW — All Kinds, All Means

Commentary also by Guest Blogger Kendra Saunders

The great thing about #NYFW is not just seeing so much, but it’s seeing so much thru a variety of a means. In my 1st Fashion Week recap, I’m showcasing a film premiere party, presentations, afterparties, and showroom visits. During New York Fashion Week, you really do it all! This season was an impressive one for Fashion Nexus and Bellus Magazine, for which I am the NYC Editor. I was invited to 80 shows — the highest # ever. There was no way I would be able to attend all of these events, runways, and presentations. But thanks to a great effort from some amazing individuals who joined my team as guest bloggers and writers, Fashion Nexus & Bellus Magazine attended 68 of these 80 events. WOW!

So in addition to my coverage for this 1st NYFW recap, Kendra Saunders is on board with some commentary and imagery! First up, the NYC premiere of the fashion documentary “Inside Amato”.

Inside Amato by Furne One

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This fashion documentary, directed by Rocco Lee Gaglioti, takes its audience on a fashionable journey with Furne One, going from concept to a collection as presented on a dramatic runway. This film presents the pressures and struggles presenting a high fashion runway collection. It is a very accurate portrayal of the face of the fashion. Rocco Leo Gaglioti brings the admiration of Furne One, while uncovering intimate moments and creative genius.

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photo with Director Rocco Lee Gaglioti

Furne One launched in 2002 and was immediately a hit with the elite. This fashion has been seen on the red carpet from the Golden Globes, Oscars, and more. His fashion has dressed Beyonce, Katy Perry, Jennifer Lopez, Nicki Minaj, Shakira, Nicole Scherzinger, and Amber Rose to name a few.

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The documentary was very insightful and it was a true joy for anyone with a passion for fashion. The event was a smashing success, a huge crowd at The Liberty Theater in Times Square. I was very thankful to grab a few minutes with the director, Rocco Lee Gaglioti, on the red carpet. For such a momentous occasion he was truly excited for this opportunity and was near speechless, truly overjoyed!

O2nd Showroom

O2nd showroom takes its clientele on a journey of contradiction, an engagement of a dreamer and a pragmatist. All elements of design are created and driven by a mood, an experience, a purpose. It’s a collage of purposeful clothing with a talent to re-invent classics thru a modern lens.

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For Spring 2016, the collection infuses light, pastel color palettes into silhouettes defined by creative lines and simplicity.

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Kendra, was on board reporting here!

“Despite the miserable heat in Manhattan on Tuesday, things inside the O2 Showroom were super cool (and not just because they had AC!) The clothes being presented to us are the epitome of minimalist, laid-back style. The pieces felt timeless and ageless as well, incorporating a few little details (like a standout piece with a Peter pan collar) that added just a tad bit of retro flair. All in all, it was a really fun, upbeat little event, and I loved the set up of the room!”

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Brand Assembly

It was a pleasure stopping by the new showroom for BA. Brand Assembly’s core business is to nurture and elevate emerging design talent by providing the infrastructure and guidance needed to launch and grow successful brands.

20150913_144320-e1442726283309-576x1024Brands currently showing — Beckley, Elle Sasson, Harare, Karie Laks, Laveer, Mestiza, Phyllis + Rosie, Sass & Bide, ThePerfext, Vive La Femme, Cosette, Flannel, Helena Quinn, Kempner, Libsa, Mill + Row, Roi, Strom, Vincetta, Custommade, Frank & Eileen, Karen Zambos, Korovilas, Mart, MKT, Sarah Curtis, Tarryn Simone, Virginia Wolf, and Woodrow.

Sound Affects & Malan Breton

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Malan’s NYFW wrap party, a gathering to benefit a cancer organization, was a huge success!! The event was held at the Hudson Hotel. Sound Affects was the charitable organization being benefited on this evening and to do so, Malan auctioned off 2 dresses, one being a recent finale gown from his recent NYFW showing, to support the cause. More than $10,000.00 in donations were received.

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The event was a total blast and a smashing success as you can see from the few images above and below!

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Plain Tee Blue Jean

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Designer Teneice B.

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Kendra attended this designer presentation. In interviewing Teneice, the designer said she was inspired to share her message thru graphic tees. She is all about the empowerment of young girls.

Plain Tee Blue Jean is the tangible extension of a complete lifestyle brand. The brand is not only the designer’s go-to fashion choices but the phrases you see are her version of highlightable book passages that she never got to write.

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These two tees above are faves of the designers’ from this recent collection!

PR — The Smurfs v Barney

Project Runway threw in another group challenge this week. And for this episode, it was a battle of the teams, 2 teams that is. Heidi & Tim delivered the challenge details in paintball-esque style.

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Blake, as the winning designer from last week, got the ball rolling on the team building. He would select a designer and then whomever was next selected would pick the following designer until no designers were left. So for the blue team, Blake picked Swapnil, who picked, Joseph, who picked Jake, who picked Edmond, and who then lastly picked Merline.

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The button bag selected who got the ball rolling for the other team, the red team. The blue team was comprised mainly of guys, which meant the red team was all ladies — Candice, Amanda, Kelly, Lindsey, Laurie, and lastly Ashley.

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With the teams completed, it was then time to play some fierce paintball! Each team would defend a barrel of fabric with 2 paintball guns and paintball grenades. Ashley showed she knew how to handle the gun, while Blake decided to kind of sit this one out and hide.

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The fabric captured would be the supplemental material for the challenge. Tim later revealed the actual material for the challenge would be what the designers were wearing, their paintball jumpsuits which had just been splattered with paint. Each team was to create a 6 look mini-collection. Yes, that meant cohesion must be in play! The designers then headed back to the workroom to start on this 2-day challenge.

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The blue team made great decisions right from the get go. They formed a clear concept, assigned tasks, and really worked great together. Their inspiration was the 50s, to have a Jackson Pollock vibe. They also decided to use a unified textile, which Jake created.

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As the designers arrived back to the workroom, Tim told the designers they could make use of extra white canvas and paint that had been provided. Blake too added to the creativity of the textiles by creating a hand-painted floral print for the fabric.

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The red team pretty much went the exact opposite route. They did not work as a team at all. Everyone was kind of doing their own thing, just creating their own look. They did not ever form a clear concept, even though several attempts were made. Ashley made it clear since she was the last picked that she felt the least welcome. The ladies in making their textiles were hoping to gain inspiration for a concept, but instead ended up with a complete “easter egg festival”, as Tim latter dubbed it.

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All of the white canvas fabric was gone and the ladies were worried as to how their collection could be saved from this color explosion gone bad. Candice attempted to take some form of leadership over the group, but the other ladies were not feeling it. The other designers might not have wanted a leader, but if the women were not going to work as a team, I actually feel as if some leadership was needed here. But the reigns should have been taken to direct the ladies toward cohesion, not just crossing fingers that a concept would arise naturally.

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Tim-time made it clear that he saw what we all were seeing at home. He was quite pleased with the blue team, very excited to see cohesion and that they were all working so well together. Tim was rightfully concerned with the red team, telling them they should feel a little scared. The ladies finally decided on a purple supplemental fabric to be their cohesive thread, in hopes it would also save their looks from being amateur hour to chic fashion.

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Tim later brought in Sally Beauty consultant Liddy Bisanz. Sally Beauty had their mobile nail studio right outside, with over 750 nail colors, for the designers to have at their disposal. They would each visit with a consultant to create a nail design to give each of their looks additional dimension. As the end of the 2nd day was winding down, the blue team was still going strong, while the red team was still all over the place. Laurie and Amanda even had some drama in the sewing room as tensions were all over the place. The ladies hoped to leave the negative energy behind for the morning of the runway, but that was not the case. Laurie told Ashley the other team members were planning to throw her under the bus, and both were over their group dynamics. But at this point nothing more could be done and the runway show was about to begin.

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This week’s guest judges were designer Lisa Perry and Kelly Osbourne.

It was clear from the episode which team was going to be on top and who was not. The blue team made wearable art, whereas the red team created arts and crafts projects. There were a lot of great looks that the blue team put out. Blake and Jake offered a lot to their team with textile creation, but the judges rightfully awarded the win and immunity to the best design. And their pick was Edmond. I agreed, but had they picked Swapnil, I would have been fine with that decision as well. It was a close race for the top.

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Edmond’s gown was effortlessly and breathtakingly stunning. It was a win from all angles, including a gorgeous back.

Sally Beauty shout-out for hair, such a beautiful bun updo, also for Mary Kay, great choice of a bold red lip

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Swapnil was a close 2nd here and this dress looked very fun and fashionable. He used a lot of creativity here, even making use of the shoes the designers wore in creating the back of this dress. It was clear he paid great attention to detail, including putting in pockets!

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Sally Beauty shout-out — lovely flowing waves

Blake would have rounded out my top 3, creating a very clean-cut, minimalist dress. The open back was divine. Blake proved he doesn’t always need bells & whistles to shine. The splashed Pollock paint vibe was great, but I thought the floral hand-painted escalated the prints. I am proud of Blake for doing a great job with that work.

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The judges chose Jake as part of their top 3, but I don’t get it. It was great what he did in creating a fabric, but fabric design doesn’t really show me what a great designer he is. Jake has yet to stand out for me and in my opinion could have gone home on earlier challenges. This look was some of his best work, but that is not saying much. And I can’t help but think back to his previous group challenge and how he didn’t work well with Lindsey. Yet all of a sudden he worked just fine here. Does he have a problem working with women?

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Sally Beauty hair shout-out also for Joseph, more gorgeous waves

It was great to see continued signs of improvement from both Joseph & Merline though. I thought this look was quite different for Joseph, still very ladylike and regal, but not so matronly. Merline too also created a beautiful piece, filled with structure and flare.

As mentioned many times above, the red team was clearly on the bottom and the critiques brought out even more drama. The fabric here was not a plus, but even stronger designers such as Candice and Ashley, had looks that were just not great. Bad fabric should not lead to bad design, which is what happened here. All of the looks just kind of fell flat. There was really nothing special. And even though there was drama and fabric issues, the ladies had always planned on doing their own thing. With that I would maybe have expected 1 or 2 decent looks, but overall, it was very eh. And really with the additional drama on the runway, I was over it at this point. I actually blame all of them and do not feel overly bad for Ashley. Added note though, I do like Ashley, did not think she should go home and knew it was not going to happen. But any of these ladies could have helped in making a change to better the group dynamic here and none chose to take that route. No true leadership was seen and the little bit that was attempted was chastised. It was great Laurie stuck up for Ashley at the end, but she didn’t show any support when Ashley was trying to have her voice heard earlier on in the episode. Being picked last sucks. But Ashley has won 2 challenges and she could have sucked it up and tried to make the best of it. And rather than constant complaints from Candice, Amanda, or whomever, focus should have gone on better planning right from the get go. I’m sure these designers have watched PR before and knew the route they were taking was a recipe for disaster. These are some very talented ladies here who have done some great work this season. I will definitely continue to root for them and hope to see better from them in the future. But this work, this episode, these looks were a hot mess!

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Amanda did not have the best look this week, but she didn’t have the worst. At least there was some flare and great movement with her piece. Clearly the judges chose to send her home based on their view of her body of work rather than sending home designers who have been on the top. I’ve disagreed with the judges placement of Amanda in the bottom, but this is where they’ve put her. Ultimately it led to her elimination this week. She may have not made it to the PR show at NYFW, but I’m happy I will get to see her with House of Perna as she is still showing during fashion week.

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Candice was in the bottom 2, which also made no sense to me. It was not her best work, but it was not the worst of this bunch. It was not perfectly executed, but it had direction. It was more than just a basic, boring top or skirt.

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Ashley & Kelly were too in some danger here as the judges brought attention to their looks. This was definitely not Ashley’s best work. It was clear the judges were not sending her home as she has had some winning looks. Kelly too didn’t fair well with the judges here. There were definitely some execution issues here, but just as I said with Candice, I at least appreciated a sense of direction here and thinking outside of the box. The top was a bit crazy, but for these looks, the crazy outweighed the safe, boring pieces.

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Laurie & Lindsey were in the middle of this bottom pack. And just like the rest, nothing overly impressive or to brag about. Two basic tops, culottes, and some capris, whoopee! The girls had a tough week here, all of them. So here’s to hoping the ladies get back in it next week. I know they’ve done better and know most will get back on track.

PR Designers Order Classics with a Side of Modern Twists

pr14-ep4-episode3So before the designers headed off on their 1st trip this season to Mood, they met with Tim & Mary Kay global makeup artist Luis Casco on a NYC dock. Why?!? To receive their challenge of course! The challenge this week was to take a classic design and add a modern, unique twist to it. Meeting on the dock was to allow the designers the chance to take in the gorgeous city views as inspiration. In addition, as Luis was there to provide the challenge details, this of course meant it was a Mary Kay challenge. Each designer would receive a makeup consultation to give their modern designs a modern beauty amplification.  And finally, to incentivize the designers (which I think was needed!), the winning design would receive a cash prize of $5k and their look would be featured in a Mary Kay ad in Marie Claire magazine.

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The designers had 30 minutes to sketch and then it was off to Mood with 45 minutes to shop and a budget of $250. Tim reminded the designers as they got back to the workroom to be mindful of time as this was a 1 day challenge, but they also had to do meetings with him, consultations with Luis, and of course do their model fittings. As the designers started working, we saw Gabrielle anxiously awaiting for Tim to come by and Amanda in doubt. I totally got where Amanda was coming from with being in the bottom so much. I stick by what I’ve said in previous recaps though, Amanda should not have been in the bottom 2 for the Hallmark challenge and her bottom 3 placement last week was ridiculous. Not being in the bottom would have been a much needed confidence booster for her!

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Tim-time highlights, Swapnil going from Breakfast at Tiffany’s to Breakfast in Vegas! Also, Blake was baffling Tim! But overall, Tim was energized about the work he was seeing! For model fittings, Laurie was given a new model — not sure why?? But much sooner, rather than later, the morning of the runway came about and it was chaos as usual. Gabrielle was having sewing machine troubles, while Blake was dealing with cuts and blood stains on his garment. Yikes!

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This week’s guest judge was Mad Men’s Kiernan Shipka!

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I was actually quite impressed with the runway this week. I had a hard time myself picking a top 3. Most of the judges’ top 3 was understandable, but my top 3 consisted of Candice, Ashley, and Laurie.

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I saw Ashley’s look come down the runway and I was like, Wow, so pretty! This was feminine, fashionable, and the back was GORGEOUS! I think the skirt could have worked a tad shorter, but overall, this look was super impressive! Shout-outs — JustFab for the stunning accessories, killer heels & coordinating white clutch; Sally Beauty for hair, lovely side-swept wavy do; & Mary Kay for the beauty look, very natural, slight cat eye, love it!

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Laurie’s look was also a stand-out for me. I loved the volume on the top and the eye-catching print for the pencil skirt. Heads would definitely turn as this look walked the streets! Shout-outs — JustFab for the sexy heels and oversized envelope clutch

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The judges top 3 differed from my own, as did their winner. Hands down, Candice should have won this week! How the judges picked Blake’s look over this one is mind-boggling to me. This look was bad ass, phenomenal jacket, and what a fit!

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The best part, not only was it a great look, but it was also well-made, unlike the winning look. Come on judges, let’s reward execution as well as design!

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Shout-outs — JustFab, love the heels! Also Mary Kay, love this bold red lip!

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Even though Swapnil was not in my top 3, he still did an amazing job this week. And with the judges’ top 3, this should have at least came in 2nd! I love a LBD and I would for sure rock this one. It was super sexy and the back was quite alluring. I love when a look is captivating from all angles.

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Blake rounded out the top 3 and was the winning look. I’m still not sure how this happened. I don’t think Blake should have gone home, but he even thought his look was in the bottom. That should kind of tell you something. If he couldn’t even be confident at first, how should we as viewers buy that this was not just in the top 3, but also the winning look??

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The judges even admitted this look was poorly constructed, which even further confuses the result for me. I am eager to see more from Blake and I’ve loved a lot of what he has done this season. His look last week was my winning look and was far more deserving than this dress. I’m sure it will photograph well and the color use was great, but still not a winning look for me.

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Shout-out, Sally Beauty, spectacular fishtail braid!

Before getting to the bottom, let’s look at the rest of the safe designs. Kelly’s look was quite interesting this week. I was impressed that she made a great pair of pants, especially after seeing so many horrific ones last week. But the more I look at her top, the more I love it. The styling threw me a bit, but this top had such great details, making it more than just a shirt & a pair of pants.

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I will give Joseph & Merline some credit this week for showing signs of improvement. They really needed to at this point. Joseph’s black look was well-made and had a great fit. It wasn’t overly brilliant, but better than his previous work so good for him. Merline did amazing work with this jacket. I couldn’t fully see what was going on underneath the jacket, so not sure of my feelings there, but again, a vast improvement from not just last week, but all of her previous work.

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Shout-out — Sally Beauty, love Joseph’s messy updo

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Edmond did a good job, little short, but much better than last week. Not top 3 material, but I appreciate a comeback. Jake’s look on the other hand was was a trainwreck. It was way too short and there was nothing innovative or original about this look at all. Hello, Tom Ford!! Shout-out to him with Sally Beauty though, love the sexy, gorgeous waves!

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Lindsey came in third from the bottom. I pegged this as a bottom look as well. I don’t think she should have gone home, but my notes here were that the skirt could have been shorter and more of a crop for the crop top. I didn’t get the pairing of these 3 pieces. If the focus was on the inner pieces versus the outer, then I say ditch the outerwear. The judges were correct in saying that this ready as thick and it did swallow the model. Shout-outs Mary Kay for this stunning burgundy lip & Sally Beauty for another pretty side-swept wavy do!

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I actually feel bad for Amanda at this point. Clearly the judges, producers, or someone does not like this girl. Why did they put her on the show then! I mean 3 weeks at the bottom, that is a lot. I think of all her bottom 3 placements, this was the most deserving, but seeing Jake escape the bottom then in light of the judges’ critiques this week, I’m baffled. I have seen Amanda’s previous work and I know she is better than this look. I actually plan to see her presentation with the House of Perna for NYFW in a couple of weeks and I can’t wait! I will continue my support of her despite the judges’ misguided bottom placements.

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This left Gabrielle being eliminated this week. If I had it my way, Jake would have gone. So for everyone being upset over her early elimination, I believe the better answer or solution was not Amanda then being eliminated, but rather Jake. Gabrielle’s jacket was not that bad, but it was not a saving grace for the overall look.

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The white dress was so basic and to then not be well-made was not a good thing. I hate seeing her go at this point, but I’m eager to continue to follow her work outside of the show. But from her body of work, I didn’t see her making top 3.

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Shout-outs — JustFab for the metallic silver heels; Sally Beauty for the beautiful loose updo and Mary Kay for a stunning beauty look, nude lip & smoky eye.

Project Runway is Back in Action!!

And as always for the 1st episode, there is lots to report! Lots of designers. Lots of looks to grace the 1st runway. And lots of other show details from designer intros to workroom beginnings. So let’s get right to it with the 1st challenge of season 14!

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Heidi Klum and Tim Gunn met the group of 16 designers at Madison Square Garden to give them their challenge details. It was nothing out of the ordinary, very typical for a PR 1st challenge. The designers had 1 day to create any garment of their choosing, as long as it represented their designer POV. There were a few tiny catches — limited fabrics (courtesy of Mood) and only 3 minutes to shop, and by shop I mean to run around Madison Square Garden as the fabrics were scattered over the arena, draped over the seats. Each designer could only take 4 textiles. And since the designers were only provided with a limited number of fabrics, these choices could be ones the designers would not typically work with or might not be familiar with using.

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The designers got a little crazed running around the arena, lots of snatching and definitely some aggressive behavior. But it was then off to the workroom where everyone got settled into their workstations with some friendly hellos and getting to know each other a little better. The mood of the room came down quite a bit though with some of the designers questioning their fabric choices and a major PR first!

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Three designers, David, Swapnil, and Merline, did not bring their designer kits. Needless to say, Tim was shocked as this had never happened before on PR. Those designers were left to the kindness of their fellow castmates. I’m assuming everyone was given a helping hand as nobody seemed to have any further issues. A bit of other drama from this 1st episode, #projectmusical. Merline was singing about the workroom, definitely being dubbed as the season chatterbox. All fellow designers seemed quite annoyed to say the least!

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The fun and laughter came to a quick end as Tim Time came around. There was a mixture of nervous designers, questions from Tim, and even some praise. Notably Tim had a disconnect with Edmond and some disagreements with Hanmiao. But overall, Tim left the designers with some firm notes. He was very disappointed and wanted the designers to turn their lumps of coal into diamonds!

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As time for the first runway rolled around, it was also time for some of the season’s intros. The entire runway and set for the runway had been re-invented. Accessories this year were provided by JustFab. Mary Kay Cosmetics were back to provide makeup services. And new for this year, Sally Beauty was on board to work as the hair team.

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As in previous seasons, the runway was being judged “anonymously” and the Tim Gunn save would return. The 1st guest judge of the season to join Heidi, Nina, and Zac was Hannah Davis, model and soon to be host of PR Junior.

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With regard to the massive 1st runway, I was not in total agreement with Heidi’s statement that it was so spectacular. There was definitely some highlights, but I kind of agreed with Tim’s earlier sentiment of disappointment. Many of the safe designers were just that, lucky to be safe. The bottom 3 I couldn’t say I disagreed with, but I believe a few other designers could have easily found themselves to be in the bottom. I will give one honorable mention that was in my top, but forgotten by the judges, and that was Swapnil’s sassy royal blue frock. I love this color choice and the bodice was intricately created and detailed. In the midst of mediocrity, Swapnil certainly stood out for me.

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Another quick honorable mention, Amanda. The more and more I look at her design, the more and more I like it. But what I wanted to point out was a shout-out for her work with Mary Kay and Sally Beauty. We see a lot of updos on PR, so to see a fresh, gorgeous hair look that is down, I had to give some props here. But also, I thought the sunkist, bronzed beauty look was a great pairing with her flirty, girly, fun look.

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Ashley was the clear winner though this week. This look was so chic, very fashionable. I can’t imagine any young fashionista wouldn’t be over the moon to wear this piece!

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Ashley not only created a rave look, but she stood out with hair and makeup as well. This lovely chignon updo by Sally Beauty was spot on. And the bold burgundy lip by Mary Kay was a great touch.

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I was 100% in agreement with the judges here, top 3 placement and winning look. I loved that Nina pointed out the texture. This was so impressive for a 1st look and I’m happy Ashley was given immunity for next week. But I would hope she doesn’t need it!

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The other 2 designers in the top I was more on the fence about. Edmond’s black tube dress with a train, showcasing a bright neon color, was very much a turnaround from Tim time. But I’m not sure about the neon fabric on the train as Hannah pointed out as well. In fact, several of the designers made use of a yellow under-fabric so I’m guessing it might have been the most prevalent of the fabric choices at Madison Square Garden. Clearly Mood was trying to get rid of this busy color! I believe it was Nina that was quick to remind her fellow judges that this was not overly innovative, a tube dress with a train. I might have responded differently without the neon color, maybe a royal purple or cobalt blue, but I get that Edmond was working with what he had. I appreciate his ability to “make it work”!

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Merline rounded out the top 3 this week, but I was not so gaga over this one. I loved the use of color. And there were some nice details, but I just wasn’t over the moon here. Just as with Edmond though, I know Merline did a lot to make this work. I would just hope for the future we see less chat and more work. It will only serve to improve her work.

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Nobody wants to be the first to go, but this is PR and each week there is a bottom 3 and one must go. Of the bottom 3, I was so surprised to see Blake become a part of this, so I’m happy he was saved. I loved Blake’s audition pieces, so I certainly didn’t want him axed first. This print could be a lot to take, but I think it was a bold, daring choice, which I applaud him for. However, there was a lot going on here and with such a busy print, too much wasn’t going to work. And again, we see this god awful yellow color as part of an under-fabric, which really didn’t make much sense. So I don’t disagree with the judges on this one, but I’m hopeful we will see better from Blake in the future!

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This left Hanmiao and Duncan in the bottom 2. The judges felt Duncan didn’t do enough and when it comes down to designers not doing enough versus doing too much, the one who doesn’t do enough generally goes home. What saved Hanmiao was the judges did get her aesthetic, which was not a vibe they received from Duncan. I actually believe if Hanmiao had ditched the jacket she would have been safe. The dress on it’s own wasn’t altogether terrible, but with the matchy-matchy coat, it was too much. The dress still had some issues, but I’m guessing with sole focus on the dress, it might have been better. I know she demonstrated a stubborn side with Tim, but Duncan firmly stood by his design with the judges. On top of doing too little, it just wasn’t going to clearly work out in saving Duncan.

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Duncan selected a stunning bun updo, which I loved for this look. I also liked the back. But other than that, this gown was a hot mess. If you are going to just drape, you have to do so superbly. And this wasn’t it. Duncan accepted his elimination well though; he left with his head held high.

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Project Runway Returns!

hp-images-pr14-newLifetime’s hit reality series, Project Runway, is back for it’s 14th season this Thursday, August 6th!! As an avid fan, I know I am excited!! How about you?!? I wanted to put together a little intro piece for this exciting event, discuss the designers, the season details, and more! So for all you PR fanatics just like me, ENJOY!!

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There are 16 designers coveting and competing for the PR title this season. Not only is the competition for the title, but a host of prizes including:

  • $100,000 to launch his or her business
  • a Celebrity Cruises® modern luxury vacation
  • a year’s worth of products courtesy of Sally Beauty
  • the opportunity to consult with Sally Beauty to create a limited edition “FingerPaints” nail color collection
  • a 2015 Lexus RC 350
  • a complete sewing and crafting studio from Brother Sewing and Embroidery
  • a fashion spread in Marie Claire magazine, and
  • from Mary Kay, an entire year’s worth of beauty products for their fashion shows and professional makeup artist services for their debut show.

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In addition to the always impressive and talented judges, Heidi Klum, Nina Garcia, Zac Posen and mentor Tim Gunn (and his save!), top names in the entertainment industry sitting as guest judges this season include: Bella Thorne, Kiernan Shipka, Tracee Ellis Ross, Paula Patton, Ashley Tisdale, Shiri Appleby, Constance Zimmer, Ciara, Mel B, Coco Rocha, Lisa Perry, and Hannah Davis.

So let’s meet the designers —

Amanda Perna: 28, Delray Beach, FL

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Amanda’s studies included The University of Alabama, as well as a first internship with Oscar de la Renta. Her strengths, putting together cohesive collections, mixing colors and prints, as well as thinking outside the box.

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More on Amanda & her brand The House of Perna

Gabrielle Arruda: 27, New York, NY 

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Gabrielle hails from NYC and studied at the infamous Parsons, The New School for Design. Her strengths include time management and designing pieces that reflect her style and accomplish the task at hand. She has a modern and feminine sensibility infused into her designs.

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More on Gabrielle

Hanmiao Yang: 27, New York, NY

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Hanmiao’s strengths include being a fast learner and time management. She pays attention to detail, can work under stress, is a problem solver, and being a multi-tasker.

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More on Hanmiao

Edmond Newton: 37, Atlanta, GA

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Edmond’s strengths lie with evening wear & high fashion. He’s been trying to get on since season 1, is this is time??

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More on Edmond

Jake Wall: 36, San Francisco, CA

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Jake’s strengths include that he is a fast learner, impeccable with time management, pays attention to detail, can work under stress, is a problem solver, and can multi-task.

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More on Jake

Joseph Charles Poli: 37, Las Vega, NV

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Designer strengths include creating a strong silhouette, fit and tailoring.

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More on Joseph

Blake Patterson: 24, Los Angeles, CA

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Designer strengths include designs, fabric selections, craftsmanship, and creating something amazing!

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More on Blake

Swapnil Shinde: 34, Mumbai, India

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With a 4th time in auditioning, Swapnil is ready to show off his exquisite skills in patternmaking.

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More on Swapnil —

Merline Labissiere: 32, Savannah, GA

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Merline attended SCAD. She is very conceptual, tending to think outside the box, both with designs and the colors she uses. Architectural elements come out in the way Merline designs patterns.

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More on Merline

Laurie Underwood: 29, Chicago, IL

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Her designer strengths include creating looks that allow women to stand out, while fitting in at the same time.

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More on Laurie — (brand is Wanda Grace)

Lindsey Creel: 28, Austin, TX

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Lindsey feels she is strongest with patternmaking, sewing, and ready-to-wear.

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More on Lindsey, M.E. Shirley

Candice Cuoco: 27, San Francisco, CA

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Candice was honored to win the SF Best Emerging Designer in 2013 and nominated for Designer of the Year in 2014. She feels and interprets everything deeply. “Women are emotional creatures and to pay close attention to the meaning behind why I create is my strength.”

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More on Candice, House of CCUOCO

Ashley Nell Tipton: 24, San Diego, CA

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Designer strengths include sewing construction, thinking outside of the box, and problem solving.

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More on Ashley

David Giampiccolo: 31, Hollywood, CA

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David is highly client centric, focused, and based, so he strives to make my designs comfortable and mix street wear with a touch of couture.

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More on David

Duncan Chambers-Watson: 25, Auckland, New Zealand

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Duncan’s designer strengths are tailoring, knitwear and patternmaking.

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Kelly Dempsey: 31, Boston, MA

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Kelly is confident, with a designer strength in that of creating her own individuality, picking and choosing what she wanted to learn along the way, leading her to the designer she is today.

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More on Kelly with Keli Couture

NYFW: Men — Inspirations Come to Life

Once again, the inaugural NYFW: Men was last week. With all of the shows going on, I was quite impressed with the passionate inspirations of 2 designers — Loris Diran & Malan Breton.

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Loris Diran Men's RTW Spring 2016

So first up, Loris Diran, with Am I Blue?

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Loris Diran Men's RTW Spring 2016

The S/S 16 collection for Loris Diran reinterprets summer navy as a softer alternative to black, all while maintaining its strength & sensual mystique. The palette consists of deep navy, teal, turquoise, espresso, and chamois. The unlikely use of rustic texture works itself into the urban aesthetic, which underscores the entire season.

There is such a refinement with these pieces, truly showcasing that the designer knows high quality and knows how to dress a man for both upscale and more casual looks. I appreciate with this collection the attention to detail and versatility. There is a great ability here then to mix and match many of these pieces, and overall wear in various fashions.

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Loris Diran Men's RTW Spring 2016

Diran continues with this collection to march on with his “New Look”: uber soft, washed sulting sans padding and stiff interfacing, yet maintaining a slim, defined silhouette. With a nod to the 80s and a distinct juxtaposition of sportswear to sartorial traditionalism, the collection pairs pieces atypically to create a new masculine sensibility.

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Show credits —

Loris Diran Men's RTW Spring 2016

And now, Malan Breton, showcasing his inspirational tale of his journey home to Taiwan thru the art of design.

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Malan Breton HOMME presented a collection for S/S 16 of sportswear, swimwear, suiting, and underwear. The collection is modern, sleek, and made in comfort fibers like silk cotton and bamboo, all lending to the modern lifestyle of the man on the go, with exploration of the techniques of wetsuit design. Breton incorporates fusing elements and finds inspiration in the batik techniques and tradition of the Hakka Blue shirts of his homeland — Taiwan.

I was such a fan of Malans’ on during his time on Project Runway. I’ve been so eager to attend one of his shows and I was quite pleased and impressed for my first time in attendance. You could clearly see Malan’s inspiration here, relating back to his journey to his home homeland, Taiwan. The prints were vivid, the color palette was consistently logical, and the silhouettes/shapes were quite innovative. Great work Malan! I can’t wait to see more!

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The brand will introduce its first collection of eyewear, cufflinks, and skateboards this season as well. All is made of the highest quality elements — brushed metals, Swarovski crystals, and enamels. These materials accentuate Malan’s philosophy of high style, but continue in the path of total comfort giving every man’s Summer 2016 wardrobe comfort & control.

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Show credits —

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Modern, Trendy Menswear for S/S 2016

This past week marked the inaugural fashion week for menswear — NYFW: Mens. And 2 brands certainly caught my eye with a very high-fashion, modern and trendy take for menswear in S/S 2016 — Grungy Gentleman & Timo Weiland.

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First up, Grungy Gentleman with “Defense Wins Championship”, Designer Jace Lipstein.

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The show took place at The Super Market, featuring an art installation by visual artist Gazoo to the Moon, as well as a special musical performance from renowned piano player, ELEW. The runway show featured other highlights as well with the brand’s latest collaborations. There were Mitchell and Ness hats, UGG for Men partnership with shoewear, and eyewear from Maui Jim with sunglasses.

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Grungy Gentleman is known for its thoughtful, subtle details, paired with masculine simplicity. But this season, the brand highlighted its sartorial side with this vast collection, sprinkling in some luxurious, athletic tailoring. The label introduced a new logo and subtle recreations of their signature six-stripe pattern. I enjoyed seeing a great mix of classic styles and colors with tan, black, and white pieces. But it was great seeing such bold and bright pops of color in that of teal and cobalt blue..

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A little background on this NY-Based men’s lifestyle brand — it combines design, digital media, and commerce with the services of a creative agency. The company is driven to create an innovative culture where fashion, sports, and entertainment converge, promoting the expression of individuality to both high fashion and urban cultures thru the brand’s product lines, website, and e-store. So who is the Grungy Gentleman? He is a collector, a gentleman, a rebel spirit, and a man who stands apart. He is building a style collection with thoughtful details and masculine simplicity He is bold, brilliant, has fierce taste, pours life into his passion, and is one who takes risks.

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Right before the show, the brand offered to its guests a little something different by showcasing their new website. The new Grungy Gentleman site features a clean, new aesthetic that seamlessly mixes content & commerce. The site was conceptualized and built by web developer Benjamins Dev.

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Show credits —

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Moving on from the dynamic Grungy Gentleman showcase, let’s now check out Timo Weiland.

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The lyric, “I love you more than being seventeen” by Julian Casablancas ,the lead vocalist of The Strokes, was translated in this Timo Weiland SS’16 presentation.

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Timo Weiland’s take on menswear for S/S 2016 was certainly encapsulating of a modern, hip, super trendy vibe. The bold, vivaciously dynamic prints, mixed with a playfulness of cuts & styles, definitely made this presentation a stand-out.

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Show credits —

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Marie Odile for Soltek — Happy Bastille Day!!

download.phpSo for those who do not know, Bastille Day (July 14th), is a French national holiday, which celebrates the commencement of the French Revolution with the “Storming of the Bastille.” It should then come as no surprise that French native handbag designer Marie Odile has created a collection to help in celebrating this holiday! Marie Odile for Soltek handbags are always colorful, stylish, and timeless. And with this recent celebratory collection, the brand’s vision has not been lost!

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Marie Odile for Soltek blends French glamour with a minimal NYC aesthetic. The founder, Marie Odile Sharkey-Berard, was born in France and received her education in fashion in Paris before emigrating to New York in 1970. Her first stints in NY included Charles Jourdan, Roger Vivier and Arche. In 2010, she began Soltek Inc. The first bags were made in Naples, Italy, but production was later moved to Manhattan, NY.  The collections are made entirely by wonderful craftsmen in the heart of the Fashion District!

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Marie Odile designs bags ranging from totes and clutches to crossbodys and satchels, also bucket bags, shoulder bags, and other leather goods.  She uses an incredibly diverse portfolio of materials including cow leather (plain or printed/embossed); canvas; cork; hemp and vegan leather substitute. The versatility and variety are just 2 of the aspects from this designer, and her collection, that I enjoy. I also like the intricacy, the close attention to detail, and the eclectic, unique spirit each handbag has to offer.

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I am positive we will continue to hear great things from this talented designer, on top of a good amount of press already out on her and her brand — Accessories Magazine, Pulse, Obscurae Magazine, Travel Host, Lucky, and more! I hope all of my Fashion Nexus readers have enjoyed the pieces once again for Marie Odile’s Bastille Day collection, but here are a few other pieces from her brand, a few of my personal faves!

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