NYFW — All Kinds, All Means

Commentary also by Guest Blogger Kendra Saunders

The great thing about #NYFW is not just seeing so much, but it’s seeing so much thru a variety of a means. In my 1st Fashion Week recap, I’m showcasing a film premiere party, presentations, afterparties, and showroom visits. During New York Fashion Week, you really do it all! This season was an impressive one for Fashion Nexus and Bellus Magazine, for which I am the NYC Editor. I was invited to 80 shows — the highest # ever. There was no way I would be able to attend all of these events, runways, and presentations. But thanks to a great effort from some amazing individuals who joined my team as guest bloggers and writers, Fashion Nexus & Bellus Magazine attended 68 of these 80 events. WOW!

So in addition to my coverage for this 1st NYFW recap, Kendra Saunders is on board with some commentary and imagery! First up, the NYC premiere of the fashion documentary “Inside Amato”.

Inside Amato by Furne One

inside amato furne one film

This fashion documentary, directed by Rocco Lee Gaglioti, takes its audience on a fashionable journey with Furne One, going from concept to a collection as presented on a dramatic runway. This film presents the pressures and struggles presenting a high fashion runway collection. It is a very accurate portrayal of the face of the fashion. Rocco Leo Gaglioti brings the admiration of Furne One, while uncovering intimate moments and creative genius.

12039737_431380867045453_1433335753723177341_n

photo with Director Rocco Lee Gaglioti

Furne One launched in 2002 and was immediately a hit with the elite. This fashion has been seen on the red carpet from the Golden Globes, Oscars, and more. His fashion has dressed Beyonce, Katy Perry, Jennifer Lopez, Nicki Minaj, Shakira, Nicole Scherzinger, and Amber Rose to name a few.

12042738_10206681231804785_8866415122973476194_n

The documentary was very insightful and it was a true joy for anyone with a passion for fashion. The event was a smashing success, a huge crowd at The Liberty Theater in Times Square. I was very thankful to grab a few minutes with the director, Rocco Lee Gaglioti, on the red carpet. For such a momentous occasion he was truly excited for this opportunity and was near speechless, truly overjoyed!

O2nd Showroom

O2nd showroom takes its clientele on a journey of contradiction, an engagement of a dreamer and a pragmatist. All elements of design are created and driven by a mood, an experience, a purpose. It’s a collage of purposeful clothing with a talent to re-invent classics thru a modern lens.

IMG_20150909_110451_033

For Spring 2016, the collection infuses light, pastel color palettes into silhouettes defined by creative lines and simplicity.

IMG_20150909_110514_202

Kendra, was on board reporting here!

“Despite the miserable heat in Manhattan on Tuesday, things inside the O2 Showroom were super cool (and not just because they had AC!) The clothes being presented to us are the epitome of minimalist, laid-back style. The pieces felt timeless and ageless as well, incorporating a few little details (like a standout piece with a Peter pan collar) that added just a tad bit of retro flair. All in all, it was a really fun, upbeat little event, and I loved the set up of the room!”

IMG_20150909_110557_140

Brand Assembly

It was a pleasure stopping by the new showroom for BA. Brand Assembly’s core business is to nurture and elevate emerging design talent by providing the infrastructure and guidance needed to launch and grow successful brands.

20150913_144320-e1442726283309-576x1024Brands currently showing — Beckley, Elle Sasson, Harare, Karie Laks, Laveer, Mestiza, Phyllis + Rosie, Sass & Bide, ThePerfext, Vive La Femme, Cosette, Flannel, Helena Quinn, Kempner, Libsa, Mill + Row, Roi, Strom, Vincetta, Custommade, Frank & Eileen, Karen Zambos, Korovilas, Mart, MKT, Sarah Curtis, Tarryn Simone, Virginia Wolf, and Woodrow.

Sound Affects & Malan Breton

IMG_2089

Malan’s NYFW wrap party, a gathering to benefit a cancer organization, was a huge success!! The event was held at the Hudson Hotel. Sound Affects was the charitable organization being benefited on this evening and to do so, Malan auctioned off 2 dresses, one being a recent finale gown from his recent NYFW showing, to support the cause. More than $10,000.00 in donations were received.

IMG_1896

The event was a total blast and a smashing success as you can see from the few images above and below!

IMG_1993

Plain Tee Blue Jean

IMG_20150909_154200_152

Designer Teneice B.

IMG_20150909_155003_744

Kendra attended this designer presentation. In interviewing Teneice, the designer said she was inspired to share her message thru graphic tees. She is all about the empowerment of young girls.

Plain Tee Blue Jean is the tangible extension of a complete lifestyle brand. The brand is not only the designer’s go-to fashion choices but the phrases you see are her version of highlightable book passages that she never got to write.

IMG_20150909_155024_794

These two tees above are faves of the designers’ from this recent collection!

PR — The Smurfs v Barney

Project Runway threw in another group challenge this week. And for this episode, it was a battle of the teams, 2 teams that is. Heidi & Tim delivered the challenge details in paintball-esque style.

pr14-ep5-episode1

Blake, as the winning designer from last week, got the ball rolling on the team building. He would select a designer and then whomever was next selected would pick the following designer until no designers were left. So for the blue team, Blake picked Swapnil, who picked, Joseph, who picked Jake, who picked Edmond, and who then lastly picked Merline.

pr14-ep5-episode6

The button bag selected who got the ball rolling for the other team, the red team. The blue team was comprised mainly of guys, which meant the red team was all ladies — Candice, Amanda, Kelly, Lindsey, Laurie, and lastly Ashley.

pr14-ep5-episode7

With the teams completed, it was then time to play some fierce paintball! Each team would defend a barrel of fabric with 2 paintball guns and paintball grenades. Ashley showed she knew how to handle the gun, while Blake decided to kind of sit this one out and hide.

pr14-ep5-episode3

The fabric captured would be the supplemental material for the challenge. Tim later revealed the actual material for the challenge would be what the designers were wearing, their paintball jumpsuits which had just been splattered with paint. Each team was to create a 6 look mini-collection. Yes, that meant cohesion must be in play! The designers then headed back to the workroom to start on this 2-day challenge.

pr14-ep5-episode4

The blue team made great decisions right from the get go. They formed a clear concept, assigned tasks, and really worked great together. Their inspiration was the 50s, to have a Jackson Pollock vibe. They also decided to use a unified textile, which Jake created.

pr14-ep5-episode9

As the designers arrived back to the workroom, Tim told the designers they could make use of extra white canvas and paint that had been provided. Blake too added to the creativity of the textiles by creating a hand-painted floral print for the fabric.

pr14-ep5-episode11

The red team pretty much went the exact opposite route. They did not work as a team at all. Everyone was kind of doing their own thing, just creating their own look. They did not ever form a clear concept, even though several attempts were made. Ashley made it clear since she was the last picked that she felt the least welcome. The ladies in making their textiles were hoping to gain inspiration for a concept, but instead ended up with a complete “easter egg festival”, as Tim latter dubbed it.

pr14-ep5-episode20

All of the white canvas fabric was gone and the ladies were worried as to how their collection could be saved from this color explosion gone bad. Candice attempted to take some form of leadership over the group, but the other ladies were not feeling it. The other designers might not have wanted a leader, but if the women were not going to work as a team, I actually feel as if some leadership was needed here. But the reigns should have been taken to direct the ladies toward cohesion, not just crossing fingers that a concept would arise naturally.

pr14-ep5-episode8

Tim-time made it clear that he saw what we all were seeing at home. He was quite pleased with the blue team, very excited to see cohesion and that they were all working so well together. Tim was rightfully concerned with the red team, telling them they should feel a little scared. The ladies finally decided on a purple supplemental fabric to be their cohesive thread, in hopes it would also save their looks from being amateur hour to chic fashion.

pr14-ep5-episode10

Tim later brought in Sally Beauty consultant Liddy Bisanz. Sally Beauty had their mobile nail studio right outside, with over 750 nail colors, for the designers to have at their disposal. They would each visit with a consultant to create a nail design to give each of their looks additional dimension. As the end of the 2nd day was winding down, the blue team was still going strong, while the red team was still all over the place. Laurie and Amanda even had some drama in the sewing room as tensions were all over the place. The ladies hoped to leave the negative energy behind for the morning of the runway, but that was not the case. Laurie told Ashley the other team members were planning to throw her under the bus, and both were over their group dynamics. But at this point nothing more could be done and the runway show was about to begin.

pr14-ep5-episode28

This week’s guest judges were designer Lisa Perry and Kelly Osbourne.

It was clear from the episode which team was going to be on top and who was not. The blue team made wearable art, whereas the red team created arts and crafts projects. There were a lot of great looks that the blue team put out. Blake and Jake offered a lot to their team with textile creation, but the judges rightfully awarded the win and immunity to the best design. And their pick was Edmond. I agreed, but had they picked Swapnil, I would have been fine with that decision as well. It was a close race for the top.

pr14-ep5-en

Edmond’s gown was effortlessly and breathtakingly stunning. It was a win from all angles, including a gorgeous back.

Sally Beauty shout-out for hair, such a beautiful bun updo, also for Mary Kay, great choice of a bold red lip

pr14-ep5-ss

Swapnil was a close 2nd here and this dress looked very fun and fashionable. He used a lot of creativity here, even making use of the shoes the designers wore in creating the back of this dress. It was clear he paid great attention to detail, including putting in pockets!

pr14-ep5-bp

Sally Beauty shout-out — lovely flowing waves

Blake would have rounded out my top 3, creating a very clean-cut, minimalist dress. The open back was divine. Blake proved he doesn’t always need bells & whistles to shine. The splashed Pollock paint vibe was great, but I thought the floral hand-painted escalated the prints. I am proud of Blake for doing a great job with that work.

-pro2ject-runway--sea

The judges chose Jake as part of their top 3, but I don’t get it. It was great what he did in creating a fabric, but fabric design doesn’t really show me what a great designer he is. Jake has yet to stand out for me and in my opinion could have gone home on earlier challenges. This look was some of his best work, but that is not saying much. And I can’t help but think back to his previous group challenge and how he didn’t work well with Lindsey. Yet all of a sudden he worked just fine here. Does he have a problem working with women?

-project-run7way--sea     -project-run8way--sea

Sally Beauty hair shout-out also for Joseph, more gorgeous waves

It was great to see continued signs of improvement from both Joseph & Merline though. I thought this look was quite different for Joseph, still very ladylike and regal, but not so matronly. Merline too also created a beautiful piece, filled with structure and flare.

As mentioned many times above, the red team was clearly on the bottom and the critiques brought out even more drama. The fabric here was not a plus, but even stronger designers such as Candice and Ashley, had looks that were just not great. Bad fabric should not lead to bad design, which is what happened here. All of the looks just kind of fell flat. There was really nothing special. And even though there was drama and fabric issues, the ladies had always planned on doing their own thing. With that I would maybe have expected 1 or 2 decent looks, but overall, it was very eh. And really with the additional drama on the runway, I was over it at this point. I actually blame all of them and do not feel overly bad for Ashley. Added note though, I do like Ashley, did not think she should go home and knew it was not going to happen. But any of these ladies could have helped in making a change to better the group dynamic here and none chose to take that route. No true leadership was seen and the little bit that was attempted was chastised. It was great Laurie stuck up for Ashley at the end, but she didn’t show any support when Ashley was trying to have her voice heard earlier on in the episode. Being picked last sucks. But Ashley has won 2 challenges and she could have sucked it up and tried to make the best of it. And rather than constant complaints from Candice, Amanda, or whomever, focus should have gone on better planning right from the get go. I’m sure these designers have watched PR before and knew the route they were taking was a recipe for disaster. These are some very talented ladies here who have done some great work this season. I will definitely continue to root for them and hope to see better from them in the future. But this work, this episode, these looks were a hot mess!

-project-run4way--sea

Amanda did not have the best look this week, but she didn’t have the worst. At least there was some flare and great movement with her piece. Clearly the judges chose to send her home based on their view of her body of work rather than sending home designers who have been on the top. I’ve disagreed with the judges placement of Amanda in the bottom, but this is where they’ve put her. Ultimately it led to her elimination this week. She may have not made it to the PR show at NYFW, but I’m happy I will get to see her with House of Perna as she is still showing during fashion week.

-project-ru2nway--sea

Candice was in the bottom 2, which also made no sense to me. It was not her best work, but it was not the worst of this bunch. It was not perfectly executed, but it had direction. It was more than just a basic, boring top or skirt.

-project-run5way--sea    -project-runway--sea

Ashley & Kelly were too in some danger here as the judges brought attention to their looks. This was definitely not Ashley’s best work. It was clear the judges were not sending her home as she has had some winning looks. Kelly too didn’t fair well with the judges here. There were definitely some execution issues here, but just as I said with Candice, I at least appreciated a sense of direction here and thinking outside of the box. The top was a bit crazy, but for these looks, the crazy outweighed the safe, boring pieces.

-project-runw6ay--sea   -project-run1way--sea

Laurie & Lindsey were in the middle of this bottom pack. And just like the rest, nothing overly impressive or to brag about. Two basic tops, culottes, and some capris, whoopee! The girls had a tough week here, all of them. So here’s to hoping the ladies get back in it next week. I know they’ve done better and know most will get back on track.

PR Designers Order Classics with a Side of Modern Twists

pr14-ep4-episode3So before the designers headed off on their 1st trip this season to Mood, they met with Tim & Mary Kay global makeup artist Luis Casco on a NYC dock. Why?!? To receive their challenge of course! The challenge this week was to take a classic design and add a modern, unique twist to it. Meeting on the dock was to allow the designers the chance to take in the gorgeous city views as inspiration. In addition, as Luis was there to provide the challenge details, this of course meant it was a Mary Kay challenge. Each designer would receive a makeup consultation to give their modern designs a modern beauty amplification.  And finally, to incentivize the designers (which I think was needed!), the winning design would receive a cash prize of $5k and their look would be featured in a Mary Kay ad in Marie Claire magazine.

pr14-ep4-episode1

The designers had 30 minutes to sketch and then it was off to Mood with 45 minutes to shop and a budget of $250. Tim reminded the designers as they got back to the workroom to be mindful of time as this was a 1 day challenge, but they also had to do meetings with him, consultations with Luis, and of course do their model fittings. As the designers started working, we saw Gabrielle anxiously awaiting for Tim to come by and Amanda in doubt. I totally got where Amanda was coming from with being in the bottom so much. I stick by what I’ve said in previous recaps though, Amanda should not have been in the bottom 2 for the Hallmark challenge and her bottom 3 placement last week was ridiculous. Not being in the bottom would have been a much needed confidence booster for her!

pr14-ep4-episode9

Tim-time highlights, Swapnil going from Breakfast at Tiffany’s to Breakfast in Vegas! Also, Blake was baffling Tim! But overall, Tim was energized about the work he was seeing! For model fittings, Laurie was given a new model — not sure why?? But much sooner, rather than later, the morning of the runway came about and it was chaos as usual. Gabrielle was having sewing machine troubles, while Blake was dealing with cuts and blood stains on his garment. Yikes!

pr14-ep4-episode22

This week’s guest judge was Mad Men’s Kiernan Shipka!

pr14-ep4-episode27

I was actually quite impressed with the runway this week. I had a hard time myself picking a top 3. Most of the judges’ top 3 was understandable, but my top 3 consisted of Candice, Ashley, and Laurie.

pr14-ep4-ant

I saw Ashley’s look come down the runway and I was like, Wow, so pretty! This was feminine, fashionable, and the back was GORGEOUS! I think the skirt could have worked a tad shorter, but overall, this look was super impressive! Shout-outs — JustFab for the stunning accessories, killer heels & coordinating white clutch; Sally Beauty for hair, lovely side-swept wavy do; & Mary Kay for the beauty look, very natural, slight cat eye, love it!

-project-runw9ay--sea

Laurie’s look was also a stand-out for me. I loved the volume on the top and the eye-catching print for the pencil skirt. Heads would definitely turn as this look walked the streets! Shout-outs — JustFab for the sexy heels and oversized envelope clutch

pr14-ep4-episode28

The judges top 3 differed from my own, as did their winner. Hands down, Candice should have won this week! How the judges picked Blake’s look over this one is mind-boggling to me. This look was bad ass, phenomenal jacket, and what a fit!

-proj3ect-runway--sea

The best part, not only was it a great look, but it was also well-made, unlike the winning look. Come on judges, let’s reward execution as well as design!

pr14-ep4-cc

Shout-outs — JustFab, love the heels! Also Mary Kay, love this bold red lip!

-p2roject-runway--sea

Even though Swapnil was not in my top 3, he still did an amazing job this week. And with the judges’ top 3, this should have at least came in 2nd! I love a LBD and I would for sure rock this one. It was super sexy and the back was quite alluring. I love when a look is captivating from all angles.

pr14-ep4-ss

Blake rounded out the top 3 and was the winning look. I’m still not sure how this happened. I don’t think Blake should have gone home, but he even thought his look was in the bottom. That should kind of tell you something. If he couldn’t even be confident at first, how should we as viewers buy that this was not just in the top 3, but also the winning look??

-project3-runway--sea

The judges even admitted this look was poorly constructed, which even further confuses the result for me. I am eager to see more from Blake and I’ve loved a lot of what he has done this season. His look last week was my winning look and was far more deserving than this dress. I’m sure it will photograph well and the color use was great, but still not a winning look for me.

pr14-ep4-bp

Shout-out, Sally Beauty, spectacular fishtail braid!

Before getting to the bottom, let’s look at the rest of the safe designs. Kelly’s look was quite interesting this week. I was impressed that she made a great pair of pants, especially after seeing so many horrific ones last week. But the more I look at her top, the more I love it. The styling threw me a bit, but this top had such great details, making it more than just a shirt & a pair of pants.

-pr1oject-runway--sea

I will give Joseph & Merline some credit this week for showing signs of improvement. They really needed to at this point. Joseph’s black look was well-made and had a great fit. It wasn’t overly brilliant, but better than his previous work so good for him. Merline did amazing work with this jacket. I couldn’t fully see what was going on underneath the jacket, so not sure of my feelings there, but again, a vast improvement from not just last week, but all of her previous work.

pr14-ep4-jcp  pr14-ep4-ml

Shout-out — Sally Beauty, love Joseph’s messy updo

-project-run5way--sea   -project-ru1nway--sea

Edmond did a good job, little short, but much better than last week. Not top 3 material, but I appreciate a comeback. Jake’s look on the other hand was was a trainwreck. It was way too short and there was nothing innovative or original about this look at all. Hello, Tom Ford!! Shout-out to him with Sally Beauty though, love the sexy, gorgeous waves!

-project-run4way--sea

Lindsey came in third from the bottom. I pegged this as a bottom look as well. I don’t think she should have gone home, but my notes here were that the skirt could have been shorter and more of a crop for the crop top. I didn’t get the pairing of these 3 pieces. If the focus was on the inner pieces versus the outer, then I say ditch the outerwear. The judges were correct in saying that this ready as thick and it did swallow the model. Shout-outs Mary Kay for this stunning burgundy lip & Sally Beauty for another pretty side-swept wavy do!

-project-run2way--sea

I actually feel bad for Amanda at this point. Clearly the judges, producers, or someone does not like this girl. Why did they put her on the show then! I mean 3 weeks at the bottom, that is a lot. I think of all her bottom 3 placements, this was the most deserving, but seeing Jake escape the bottom then in light of the judges’ critiques this week, I’m baffled. I have seen Amanda’s previous work and I know she is better than this look. I actually plan to see her presentation with the House of Perna for NYFW in a couple of weeks and I can’t wait! I will continue my support of her despite the judges’ misguided bottom placements.

pr14-ep4-ap_0

This left Gabrielle being eliminated this week. If I had it my way, Jake would have gone. So for everyone being upset over her early elimination, I believe the better answer or solution was not Amanda then being eliminated, but rather Jake. Gabrielle’s jacket was not that bad, but it was not a saving grace for the overall look.

-project-runway--sea

The white dress was so basic and to then not be well-made was not a good thing. I hate seeing her go at this point, but I’m eager to continue to follow her work outside of the show. But from her body of work, I didn’t see her making top 3.

pr14-ep4-ga

Shout-outs — JustFab for the metallic silver heels; Sally Beauty for the beautiful loose updo and Mary Kay for a stunning beauty look, nude lip & smoky eye.

PR, Ep. 2, Another Clear Winner!

For Project Runway’s 2nd episode, we not only had the traditional unconventional material challenge, but by the runway’s end, another clear winner had been announced. Before all that, let’s hash out the episode details.

pr14-ep2-episode1

The designers met Tim at Hallmark, alongside Amy Merchant, Director of Branding for Hallmark Signature. Amy explained that just as with fashion, cards too can be pieces of art with stories to tell! In that spirit and for this unconventional materials challenge, it was only natural that the Hallmark Signature greeting cards be the materials used for the designers’ looks. The designers ransacked the Hallmark store, very quickly with only 2 minutes to shop, as they looked for inspirations and card embellishments that would potentially assist in embellishing their own creations this week.

pr14-ep2-episode3

It was then time to head back to the workroom for this 1-day challenge. There was some sorting and even designer sharing of the greeting cards. Although Edmond wasn’t quite so keen on sharing his thoughts or vision for the challenge. He even hesitated in sharing his plan during the behind-the-scenes interview! There was no singing this week in the workroom, but there was a little drama with Swapnil and Blake. Okay boys, to your corners!

pr14-ep2-episode9

Next up, Tim-time. Overall, Tim was thrilled with the designers’ ambition, but he cautioned the designers to watch their time. He worried more with time for some, such as Amanda, while others, he was worried about too much muslin or looks being too busy. Model fittings then seemed quite rushed, with focus on tight fits and worry over shortness.

pr14-ep2-episode23

By night’s end, Amanda was still in struggle-mode, while others were over the glue gun burns! The morning of seemed just as chaotic, with Hanmiao not sure what direction her look was supposed to go on, Gabrielle’s dress not opening, and Amanda calling out a manatee penis! It was then time for the runway, and joining Nina, Heidi, and Zac this week as guest judge was actress and producer Ashley Tisdale.

pr14-ep2-episode34

This week the judges named a top 4 and only a bottom 2. However, being that the judges weren’t all in agreement about this top 4, or at least one of the looks, I think they should have and definitely could have named a bottom 3. I’m not sure it would have changed the results, but a couple of designers could have too used stern warnings.

-project-runw2ay--sea    -project-run1way--sea

Ashley definitely got a word of warning from Heidi. It seems as if she did the same thing that sent one designer home this week. If Ashley didn’t have immunity, would she have been in the bottom? Yes. Sent home? Who knows?!? But Joseph for sure could have easily landed in the bottom with this oddly shaped, boxy skirt.

-project-runway--sea    -project4-run3way--sea

Merline too could have been a bottom contender. This look was sloppy, very arts & crafty, and even a bit in shambles. Gabrielle’s look too seemed to have some workmanship issues, definitely a short look! I see the work and vision here though, but I think she got caught up in it. But compared to her grey bland look from last week, I was happy to see more creative vision here, even if the vision wasn’t fully realized. (Great JustFab heels though, shout-out!)

-proje6ct-runway--sea     -project-runw8ay--sea

Lindsey had a great start here as well, a vision, but I didn’t totally buy it. This look seemed a bit stiff, but I saw more here than the basic romper from last week so I’m hopeful. Jake’s look was a pretty, sparkly look, but not much more than a LBD. I wanted a little more here. This look just seemed a little safe. But I did love the fabulous JustFab accessories, metallic silver heels & a black clutch.

-project-run9way--sea    -project-run8way--sea

Candice had a little disco-ball fever with this metal-esque look. I thought it looked well-made for this type of challenge. Hanmiao too had an intriguing look. I thought the shape & fit was off, but the way she utilized the cards and organized them, it made her look very eye-catching.

-project-run7way--sea

Laurie was actually in my top. I loved this gold, shimmery frock. The top/bodice was exquisite. I thought it was fun, playful, and flirty! Keep up the good work Laurie!

-project-runway--se4a

But onto the judges’ top and to the clear winner of the week, Edmond. This bridal look was divinely elegant. It was as if art was coming down the runway. And way to help with pushing the brand Edmond; I’m sure Hallmark loved this! Heidi was right to point out so many great things about this ls look, such as the volume, proportions, and yes, even sexiness.

pr14-ep2-en

Shout-out for the nude heels, courtesy of JustFab. And Nina was 100% right here, this was such a special moment!

-project-run3way--sea

Blake may have been blunt earlier on in the episode, but going from last week to this look, it was massively impressive. Yes it was glitter mania. And you will either love it or hate it. But you have to look at this dress for what it is. It’s a fun party dress. You could rock it for a birthday, or even as Nina suggested, New Years. I’m sure you would stand out and sparkle all night!

pr14-ep2-bp

I can see why Swapnil was in the top. I think both the top and the bottom here were phenomenal. However, I disagreed with the judges’ love of these 2 aspects as a combo deal. I felt such a disconnect. But I am head over heels about this crazy, cool floral embellished skirt.

-project-runway--se2a

Kelly rounded out the judges top 4. I still say a bottom 3 would have been better. But Kelly did do some great work here with this detailed crop top. The hoodie on the back, it was all just so stunning! I wasn’t crazed over the fringe skirt, but Kelly was another who took a big leap from the previous week’s look, so Kudos to her!

pr14-ep2-kd

So in the bottom, only 2, Amanda and David. We all know Amanda was struggling with her skirt, meaning time was not on her side this week. The skirt was a little crazy, but I don’t think this look was as bad as the judges were going on about, especially in light of at least 2 other designers who I mentioned earlier, Merline & Joseph.

-project-runwa5y--sea

This top was pretty special. I’m not sure what was so special in certain other looks that kept them out of the bottom. But Amanda should have kept it more simple with the skirt. I’m glad she didn’t leave this week though!

pr14-ep2-ap

Shout-out for this lovely side-swept updo, courtesy of Sally Beauty.

-project-run4way--sea

This left David going home. For almost any other challenge, I’m not sure the decision would be the same. But he really showed very little creativity with putting text on sparkled muslin. This is the same as when in the past judges have called out designers for using table cloth and shower curtains. The whole point is to use unconventional materials and David failed to do that.

pr14-ep2-dg

I will give a shout-out though for David on all fronts — love the JustFab heels; Sally Beauty luscious waves; and natural, minimalist Mary Kay make-up look.

This might be one of the best bottom looks ever eliminated, but by not following the challenge guidelines, not thinking outside of the box, the judges could not ignore these facts.

 

Project Runway is Back in Action!!

And as always for the 1st episode, there is lots to report! Lots of designers. Lots of looks to grace the 1st runway. And lots of other show details from designer intros to workroom beginnings. So let’s get right to it with the 1st challenge of season 14!

pr14-ep1-episode4

Heidi Klum and Tim Gunn met the group of 16 designers at Madison Square Garden to give them their challenge details. It was nothing out of the ordinary, very typical for a PR 1st challenge. The designers had 1 day to create any garment of their choosing, as long as it represented their designer POV. There were a few tiny catches — limited fabrics (courtesy of Mood) and only 3 minutes to shop, and by shop I mean to run around Madison Square Garden as the fabrics were scattered over the arena, draped over the seats. Each designer could only take 4 textiles. And since the designers were only provided with a limited number of fabrics, these choices could be ones the designers would not typically work with or might not be familiar with using.

pr14-ep1-episode2

The designers got a little crazed running around the arena, lots of snatching and definitely some aggressive behavior. But it was then off to the workroom where everyone got settled into their workstations with some friendly hellos and getting to know each other a little better. The mood of the room came down quite a bit though with some of the designers questioning their fabric choices and a major PR first!

pr14-ep1-episode11

Three designers, David, Swapnil, and Merline, did not bring their designer kits. Needless to say, Tim was shocked as this had never happened before on PR. Those designers were left to the kindness of their fellow castmates. I’m assuming everyone was given a helping hand as nobody seemed to have any further issues. A bit of other drama from this 1st episode, #projectmusical. Merline was singing about the workroom, definitely being dubbed as the season chatterbox. All fellow designers seemed quite annoyed to say the least!

pr14-ep1-episode16

The fun and laughter came to a quick end as Tim Time came around. There was a mixture of nervous designers, questions from Tim, and even some praise. Notably Tim had a disconnect with Edmond and some disagreements with Hanmiao. But overall, Tim left the designers with some firm notes. He was very disappointed and wanted the designers to turn their lumps of coal into diamonds!

pr14-ep1-episode25

As time for the first runway rolled around, it was also time for some of the season’s intros. The entire runway and set for the runway had been re-invented. Accessories this year were provided by JustFab. Mary Kay Cosmetics were back to provide makeup services. And new for this year, Sally Beauty was on board to work as the hair team.

pr14-ep1-episode27

As in previous seasons, the runway was being judged “anonymously” and the Tim Gunn save would return. The 1st guest judge of the season to join Heidi, Nina, and Zac was Hannah Davis, model and soon to be host of PR Junior.

pr14-ep1-episode29

With regard to the massive 1st runway, I was not in total agreement with Heidi’s statement that it was so spectacular. There was definitely some highlights, but I kind of agreed with Tim’s earlier sentiment of disappointment. Many of the safe designers were just that, lucky to be safe. The bottom 3 I couldn’t say I disagreed with, but I believe a few other designers could have easily found themselves to be in the bottom. I will give one honorable mention that was in my top, but forgotten by the judges, and that was Swapnil’s sassy royal blue frock. I love this color choice and the bodice was intricately created and detailed. In the midst of mediocrity, Swapnil certainly stood out for me.

-project-run5way--sea

Another quick honorable mention, Amanda. The more and more I look at her design, the more and more I like it. But what I wanted to point out was a shout-out for her work with Mary Kay and Sally Beauty. We see a lot of updos on PR, so to see a fresh, gorgeous hair look that is down, I had to give some props here. But also, I thought the sunkist, bronzed beauty look was a great pairing with her flirty, girly, fun look.

pr14-ep1-ap

Ashley was the clear winner though this week. This look was so chic, very fashionable. I can’t imagine any young fashionista wouldn’t be over the moon to wear this piece!

pr14-ep1-at

Ashley not only created a rave look, but she stood out with hair and makeup as well. This lovely chignon updo by Sally Beauty was spot on. And the bold burgundy lip by Mary Kay was a great touch.

pr14-ep1-episode30

I was 100% in agreement with the judges here, top 3 placement and winning look. I loved that Nina pointed out the texture. This was so impressive for a 1st look and I’m happy Ashley was given immunity for next week. But I would hope she doesn’t need it!

-project-run7way--sea

The other 2 designers in the top I was more on the fence about. Edmond’s black tube dress with a train, showcasing a bright neon color, was very much a turnaround from Tim time. But I’m not sure about the neon fabric on the train as Hannah pointed out as well. In fact, several of the designers made use of a yellow under-fabric so I’m guessing it might have been the most prevalent of the fabric choices at Madison Square Garden. Clearly Mood was trying to get rid of this busy color! I believe it was Nina that was quick to remind her fellow judges that this was not overly innovative, a tube dress with a train. I might have responded differently without the neon color, maybe a royal purple or cobalt blue, but I get that Edmond was working with what he had. I appreciate his ability to “make it work”!

pr14-ep1-en

Merline rounded out the top 3 this week, but I was not so gaga over this one. I loved the use of color. And there were some nice details, but I just wasn’t over the moon here. Just as with Edmond though, I know Merline did a lot to make this work. I would just hope for the future we see less chat and more work. It will only serve to improve her work.

pr14-ep1-ml

Nobody wants to be the first to go, but this is PR and each week there is a bottom 3 and one must go. Of the bottom 3, I was so surprised to see Blake become a part of this, so I’m happy he was saved. I loved Blake’s audition pieces, so I certainly didn’t want him axed first. This print could be a lot to take, but I think it was a bold, daring choice, which I applaud him for. However, there was a lot going on here and with such a busy print, too much wasn’t going to work. And again, we see this god awful yellow color as part of an under-fabric, which really didn’t make much sense. So I don’t disagree with the judges on this one, but I’m hopeful we will see better from Blake in the future!

pr14-ep1-bp

This left Hanmiao and Duncan in the bottom 2. The judges felt Duncan didn’t do enough and when it comes down to designers not doing enough versus doing too much, the one who doesn’t do enough generally goes home. What saved Hanmiao was the judges did get her aesthetic, which was not a vibe they received from Duncan. I actually believe if Hanmiao had ditched the jacket she would have been safe. The dress on it’s own wasn’t altogether terrible, but with the matchy-matchy coat, it was too much. The dress still had some issues, but I’m guessing with sole focus on the dress, it might have been better. I know she demonstrated a stubborn side with Tim, but Duncan firmly stood by his design with the judges. On top of doing too little, it just wasn’t going to clearly work out in saving Duncan.

pr14-ep1-episode31

Duncan selected a stunning bun updo, which I loved for this look. I also liked the back. But other than that, this gown was a hot mess. If you are going to just drape, you have to do so superbly. And this wasn’t it. Duncan accepted his elimination well though; he left with his head held high.

pr14-ep1-dcw

 

 

Project Runway Returns!

hp-images-pr14-newLifetime’s hit reality series, Project Runway, is back for it’s 14th season this Thursday, August 6th!! As an avid fan, I know I am excited!! How about you?!? I wanted to put together a little intro piece for this exciting event, discuss the designers, the season details, and more! So for all you PR fanatics just like me, ENJOY!!

Project-Runway-14_Group_Comp_v1_HIRES_blog

There are 16 designers coveting and competing for the PR title this season. Not only is the competition for the title, but a host of prizes including:

  • $100,000 to launch his or her business
  • a Celebrity Cruises® modern luxury vacation
  • a year’s worth of products courtesy of Sally Beauty
  • the opportunity to consult with Sally Beauty to create a limited edition “FingerPaints” nail color collection
  • a 2015 Lexus RC 350
  • a complete sewing and crafting studio from Brother Sewing and Embroidery
  • a fashion spread in Marie Claire magazine, and
  • from Mary Kay, an entire year’s worth of beauty products for their fashion shows and professional makeup artist services for their debut show.

project-runway-judges

In addition to the always impressive and talented judges, Heidi Klum, Nina Garcia, Zac Posen and mentor Tim Gunn (and his save!), top names in the entertainment industry sitting as guest judges this season include: Bella Thorne, Kiernan Shipka, Tracee Ellis Ross, Paula Patton, Ashley Tisdale, Shiri Appleby, Constance Zimmer, Ciara, Mel B, Coco Rocha, Lisa Perry, and Hannah Davis.

So let’s meet the designers —

Amanda Perna: 28, Delray Beach, FL

pr14-cast-300x300-amanda

Amanda’s studies included The University of Alabama, as well as a first internship with Oscar de la Renta. Her strengths, putting together cohesive collections, mixing colors and prints, as well as thinking outside the box.

untitled

pr14-ap-pastwork5

More on Amanda & her brand The House of Perna

Gabrielle Arruda: 27, New York, NY 

pr14-cast-300x300-gabrielle

Gabrielle hails from NYC and studied at the infamous Parsons, The New School for Design. Her strengths include time management and designing pieces that reflect her style and accomplish the task at hand. She has a modern and feminine sensibility infused into her designs.

pr14-ga-pastwork12  pr14-ga-pastwork8

More on Gabrielle

Hanmiao Yang: 27, New York, NY

pr14-cast-300x300-hanmiao

Hanmiao’s strengths include being a fast learner and time management. She pays attention to detail, can work under stress, is a problem solver, and being a multi-tasker.

pr14-hy-pastwork3  pr14-hy-pastwork10

More on Hanmiao

Edmond Newton: 37, Atlanta, GA

pr14-cast-300x300-edmond

Edmond’s strengths lie with evening wear & high fashion. He’s been trying to get on since season 1, is this is time??

pr14-en-pastwork2  pr14-en-pastwork4

More on Edmond

Jake Wall: 36, San Francisco, CA

pr14-cast-300x300-jake

Jake’s strengths include that he is a fast learner, impeccable with time management, pays attention to detail, can work under stress, is a problem solver, and can multi-task.

pr14-jw-pastwork2

pr14-jw-pastwork12

More on Jake

Joseph Charles Poli: 37, Las Vega, NV

pr14-cast-300x300-joe

Designer strengths include creating a strong silhouette, fit and tailoring.

pr14-jp-pastwork8

untitled

More on Joseph

Blake Patterson: 24, Los Angeles, CA

pr14-cast-300x300-blake

Designer strengths include designs, fabric selections, craftsmanship, and creating something amazing!

pr14-bp-pastwork4  untitled

More on Blake

Swapnil Shinde: 34, Mumbai, India

pr14-cast-300x300-swapnil

pr14-ss-pastwork4

With a 4th time in auditioning, Swapnil is ready to show off his exquisite skills in patternmaking.

pr14-ss-pastwork1

More on Swapnil —

Merline Labissiere: 32, Savannah, GA

pr14-cast-300x300-merline

Merline attended SCAD. She is very conceptual, tending to think outside the box, both with designs and the colors she uses. Architectural elements come out in the way Merline designs patterns.

pr14-ml-pastwork1

pr14-ml-pastwork6

More on Merline

Laurie Underwood: 29, Chicago, IL

pr14-cast-300x300-laurie

Her designer strengths include creating looks that allow women to stand out, while fitting in at the same time.

pr14-lu-pastwork2

pr14-lu-pastwork3

More on Laurie — (brand is Wanda Grace)

Lindsey Creel: 28, Austin, TX

pr14-cast-300x300-lindsey

Lindsey feels she is strongest with patternmaking, sewing, and ready-to-wear.

pr14-lc-pastwork1   pr14-lc-pastwork5

More on Lindsey, M.E. Shirley

Candice Cuoco: 27, San Francisco, CA

pr14-cast-300x300-candice

Candice was honored to win the SF Best Emerging Designer in 2013 and nominated for Designer of the Year in 2014. She feels and interprets everything deeply. “Women are emotional creatures and to pay close attention to the meaning behind why I create is my strength.”

pr14-cc-pastwork2  pr14-cc-pastwork11

More on Candice, House of CCUOCO

Ashley Nell Tipton: 24, San Diego, CA

pr14-cast-300x300-ashley

Designer strengths include sewing construction, thinking outside of the box, and problem solving.

pr14-at-pastwork9  pr14-at-pastwork3

More on Ashley

David Giampiccolo: 31, Hollywood, CA

pr14-cast-300x300-david

David is highly client centric, focused, and based, so he strives to make my designs comfortable and mix street wear with a touch of couture.

pr14-dg-pastwork6

pr14-dg-pastwork9

More on David

Duncan Chambers-Watson: 25, Auckland, New Zealand

pr14-cast-300x300-duncan

Duncan’s designer strengths are tailoring, knitwear and patternmaking.

pr14-dcw-pastwork2  pr14-dcw-pastwork5

Kelly Dempsey: 31, Boston, MA

pr14-cast-300x300-kelly

Kelly is confident, with a designer strength in that of creating her own individuality, picking and choosing what she wanted to learn along the way, leading her to the designer she is today.

pr14-kd-pastwork1   pr14-kd-pastwork4

More on Kelly with Keli Couture

NYFW: Men — Inspirations Come to Life

Once again, the inaugural NYFW: Men was last week. With all of the shows going on, I was quite impressed with the passionate inspirations of 2 designers — Loris Diran & Malan Breton.

loris_diran_coleccion_primavera_verano_2016nueva_york_fashion_week_269438160_560x

Loris Diran Men's RTW Spring 2016

So first up, Loris Diran, with Am I Blue?

loris_diran_coleccion_primavera_verano_2016nueva_york_fashion_week_552686727_560x

Loris Diran Men's RTW Spring 2016

The S/S 16 collection for Loris Diran reinterprets summer navy as a softer alternative to black, all while maintaining its strength & sensual mystique. The palette consists of deep navy, teal, turquoise, espresso, and chamois. The unlikely use of rustic texture works itself into the urban aesthetic, which underscores the entire season.

There is such a refinement with these pieces, truly showcasing that the designer knows high quality and knows how to dress a man for both upscale and more casual looks. I appreciate with this collection the attention to detail and versatility. There is a great ability here then to mix and match many of these pieces, and overall wear in various fashions.

loris_diran_coleccion_primavera_verano_2016nueva_york_fashion_week_480359718_560x

Loris Diran Men's RTW Spring 2016

Diran continues with this collection to march on with his “New Look”: uber soft, washed sulting sans padding and stiff interfacing, yet maintaining a slim, defined silhouette. With a nod to the 80s and a distinct juxtaposition of sportswear to sartorial traditionalism, the collection pairs pieces atypically to create a new masculine sensibility.

Loris Diran Men's RTW Spring 2016

Loris Diran Men's RTW Spring 2016

Show credits —

Loris Diran Men's RTW Spring 2016

And now, Malan Breton, showcasing his inspirational tale of his journey home to Taiwan thru the art of design.

20150714_182226

20150714_182304-1

Malan Breton HOMME presented a collection for S/S 16 of sportswear, swimwear, suiting, and underwear. The collection is modern, sleek, and made in comfort fibers like silk cotton and bamboo, all lending to the modern lifestyle of the man on the go, with exploration of the techniques of wetsuit design. Breton incorporates fusing elements and finds inspiration in the batik techniques and tradition of the Hakka Blue shirts of his homeland — Taiwan.

I was such a fan of Malans’ on during his time on Project Runway. I’ve been so eager to attend one of his shows and I was quite pleased and impressed for my first time in attendance. You could clearly see Malan’s inspiration here, relating back to his journey to his home homeland, Taiwan. The prints were vivid, the color palette was consistently logical, and the silhouettes/shapes were quite innovative. Great work Malan! I can’t wait to see more!

20150714_181918

20150714_182059

The brand will introduce its first collection of eyewear, cufflinks, and skateboards this season as well. All is made of the highest quality elements — brushed metals, Swarovski crystals, and enamels. These materials accentuate Malan’s philosophy of high style, but continue in the path of total comfort giving every man’s Summer 2016 wardrobe comfort & control.

20150714_18212020150714_182326

Show credits —

20150714_182010

20150714_181956

Modern, Trendy Menswear for S/S 2016

This past week marked the inaugural fashion week for menswear — NYFW: Mens. And 2 brands certainly caught my eye with a very high-fashion, modern and trendy take for menswear in S/S 2016 — Grungy Gentleman & Timo Weiland.

Grungy Gentleman SS16 Look 4       Grungy Gentleman SS16 Look 9

First up, Grungy Gentleman with “Defense Wins Championship”, Designer Jace Lipstein.

Grungy Gentleman SS16 Look 10  Grungy Gentleman SS16 Look 11

The show took place at The Super Market, featuring an art installation by visual artist Gazoo to the Moon, as well as a special musical performance from renowned piano player, ELEW. The runway show featured other highlights as well with the brand’s latest collaborations. There were Mitchell and Ness hats, UGG for Men partnership with shoewear, and eyewear from Maui Jim with sunglasses.

Grungy Gentleman SS16 Look 15  Grungy Gentleman SS16 Look 16

Grungy Gentleman is known for its thoughtful, subtle details, paired with masculine simplicity. But this season, the brand highlighted its sartorial side with this vast collection, sprinkling in some luxurious, athletic tailoring. The label introduced a new logo and subtle recreations of their signature six-stripe pattern. I enjoyed seeing a great mix of classic styles and colors with tan, black, and white pieces. But it was great seeing such bold and bright pops of color in that of teal and cobalt blue..

Grungy Gentleman SS16 Look 18  Grungy Gentleman SS16 Look 19

A little background on this NY-Based men’s lifestyle brand — it combines design, digital media, and commerce with the services of a creative agency. The company is driven to create an innovative culture where fashion, sports, and entertainment converge, promoting the expression of individuality to both high fashion and urban cultures thru the brand’s product lines, website, and e-store. So who is the Grungy Gentleman? He is a collector, a gentleman, a rebel spirit, and a man who stands apart. He is building a style collection with thoughtful details and masculine simplicity He is bold, brilliant, has fierce taste, pours life into his passion, and is one who takes risks.

Grungy Gentleman SS16 Look 20    Grungy Gentleman SS16 Look 21

Right before the show, the brand offered to its guests a little something different by showcasing their new website. The new Grungy Gentleman site features a clean, new aesthetic that seamlessly mixes content & commerce. The site was conceptualized and built by web developer Benjamins Dev.

Grungy Gentleman SS16 Look 24   Grungy Gentleman SS16 Look 29

Show credits —

Grungy Gentleman SS16 Look 1  Grungy Gentleman SS16 Look 6

Moving on from the dynamic Grungy Gentleman showcase, let’s now check out Timo Weiland.

IMG_9705  IMG_9706

The lyric, “I love you more than being seventeen” by Julian Casablancas ,the lead vocalist of The Strokes, was translated in this Timo Weiland SS’16 presentation.

IMG_9743   IMG_9748

Timo Weiland’s take on menswear for S/S 2016 was certainly encapsulating of a modern, hip, super trendy vibe. The bold, vivaciously dynamic prints, mixed with a playfulness of cuts & styles, definitely made this presentation a stand-out.

IMG_9720   IMG_9726

Show credits —

IMG_9736  IMG_9738

Marie Odile for Soltek — Happy Bastille Day!!

download.phpSo for those who do not know, Bastille Day (July 14th), is a French national holiday, which celebrates the commencement of the French Revolution with the “Storming of the Bastille.” It should then come as no surprise that French native handbag designer Marie Odile has created a collection to help in celebrating this holiday! Marie Odile for Soltek handbags are always colorful, stylish, and timeless. And with this recent celebratory collection, the brand’s vision has not been lost!

richelieu_bd

Marie Odile for Soltek blends French glamour with a minimal NYC aesthetic. The founder, Marie Odile Sharkey-Berard, was born in France and received her education in fashion in Paris before emigrating to New York in 1970. Her first stints in NY included Charles Jourdan, Roger Vivier and Arche. In 2010, she began Soltek Inc. The first bags were made in Naples, Italy, but production was later moved to Manhattan, NY.  The collections are made entirely by wonderful craftsmen in the heart of the Fashion District!

voltaire_3

Marie Odile designs bags ranging from totes and clutches to crossbodys and satchels, also bucket bags, shoulder bags, and other leather goods.  She uses an incredibly diverse portfolio of materials including cow leather (plain or printed/embossed); canvas; cork; hemp and vegan leather substitute. The versatility and variety are just 2 of the aspects from this designer, and her collection, that I enjoy. I also like the intricacy, the close attention to detail, and the eclectic, unique spirit each handbag has to offer.

polinac_blue

I am positive we will continue to hear great things from this talented designer, on top of a good amount of press already out on her and her brand — Accessories Magazine, Pulse, Obscurae Magazine, Travel Host, Lucky, and more! I hope all of my Fashion Nexus readers have enjoyed the pieces once again for Marie Odile’s Bastille Day collection, but here are a few other pieces from her brand, a few of my personal faves!

augustin_black              calvi_blue_1

augustin_red_3_2       lautrec_bluep1_1

pearl_black_1      

Fashion Law Symposium — The Final Segment

 DSC01313

So I have already written 2 previous posts on Fordham Law School’s annual Fashion Law Symposium, thru the Fashion Law Institute. Time has passed since the symposium, but the topical discussions were still worthy of a Fashion Nexus write-up! In addition, I have yet to share the major fun, non-topical portion of the event, a special fashion show by technological fashion brand CuteCircuit. So throughout this post are various images from this exciting runway presentation!!

But back to the panels, there was Power Dressing: Politics, Dress Codes, and the Public Eye.

Panelists were —

Power-Dressing-Redefined

I was not present at this discussion, but it was all about looking at public figures, and one’s appearance being scrutinized and criticized. Fashion is a means of communication, so many who are in the public eye, politicians, celebs, executives, and the like use their clothing to establish an image and/or convey a message. Media coverage has also been ever-increasing in this area, and has become quite controversial, inspiring campaigns such as #AskHerMore and backlash over gender-specific dress codes. So how does commentary about clothing affect the wearer, and should this type of commentary be off limits? What constitutes power dressing in an era when hemlines no longer rise and fall by fiat? And when organizations contemplate dress codes, how can they stay on the right side of both public opinion and the law?

DSC01318

Next up, The Power of 2: Licensing and Wearable Technology. The panelist were —

In light of the wearable technology fashion show we would all later experience, this topic of discussion was spot on. Fashion and technology is on the rise. It’s a fast growing sector, from luxury consumer shopping at Ralph Lauren with the Lauren Ricky Bag with light or to Apple’s rose gold watch. But wearable tech is not the product of one industry, it’s two.

DSC01324

A previous panel discussion from another year discussed patents and data privacy in the context of wearable. So with this discussion, the focus was shifted to how best to bring together these two industries, the different legal cultures, especially in the area of IP protection. Plans were discussed on how brands could source out for this tech work, such as with license agreements. There was also talks then again to budgets and how to allocate for IP protection. This area is still emerging so I am sure it will be a topic at fashion law panels to come.

DSC01320

All in all, I had a great time covering the Fashion Law Symposium and it was amazing now share these fashion law areas with all of my readers. In light of Fordham Law’s recent news with now having fashion law be an academic degree, thanks in part to the CFDA, these continued discussions on Fashion Law, and the many aspects it entails is highly important in the fashion industry. I look forward to continuing my research and discussion in this growing field!

DSC01306

DSC01319