Lucio Castro Presents “Ubu Roi”

Blue/red/black “Chinese Fingers cuff” tee shirt, khaki nylon jacket with leather collar, & grey checkered trousers

Lucio Castro was another menswear presenter for NYMD, held at Industria Superstudio, presented by Cadillac. And his concept for F/W 2015 was Ubu Roi, an hypnotic made for TV movie by Jean-Christophe Averty, airing back in 1965. The film was based on the revolutionary play by Alfred Jarry, considered by some a first sign of modernism.

Mac jacket painted by Sadie Laska on muslin, black/charcoal novelty stitch wool turtle neck, & black cotton stretch winter chinos

So why this movie? The designer was captured by the tensions between seriousness and playfulness from the film; it was innovative and primitive. There was also a sense of alluring repetition that is especially relevant now with the extensive use of GIFs & memes. There are a lot of great, unique pieces in this collection. Artist collaborator Sadie Laska worked wonders here, really increasing the level of appeal for these looks.

Blue/red/black “Chinese Finger Cuffs” sweatshirt & navy checkered trousers

Castro took the deep red found in the velvet capes of kings, and used it in repetitive patterns on the designer’s Italian-made fabrics. The sweaters here also have signature stitches that are Dadaist and 3D. This collection is still right in line with the designer’s signature aesthetics, still anchored in effortless and masculine “invisible uniform” that they always have strove for.

Caramel checkered shirt, purple heather sweatshirt, & grey sweater pants

These looks are wearable works of art. Men donning them would be eye-catching and only in the positive sense of the word. There is a great use of color here, traditional f/w colors of navy blues and burgundies. But it’s also refreshing to see some lighter, airy colors with pops of tropical green and burnt orange.