Last Post for NYMD — Ready, Set, Go!

So wrapping up NY Menswear Day, we have Bespoken NY and another womenswear presentation with Stephen F., all showing for this event-filled day. Do check out my other pieces for NYMD —

NYMD was presented by Cadillac and was held at Industria Superstudio. It was a great time and truly amazing to see so many talented designers. Now let’s take a closer look at Bespoken NY.

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Bespoken fleshed out a lineup of its signature tailored pieces. From the formal attitude of suiting to the casual direction highlighted by sportswear, Bespoken revealed a smart undertaking.

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The brand added a custom flare for the season, tropical prints dressed a few pieces with color blocking also making an appearance, as you can see above.

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Bespoken Menswear kept it mostly neutral with dark rich blues, blacks and whites.

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There were mixtures of street and formal wear, including separates like hoodies and slacks. The brand has really stepped it up with this collection. I love seeing the growth, so adding new modern takes and twists to the brand’s traditional staples.

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We even saw a hint of womenswear, nice change-up & twist for Bespoken!

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Additional presentation details —

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Additional event sponsors — AVEDA; Need Edition; Trask; Johnston & Murphy; Peroni Italy; Black Velvet; hint Water; & Svedka.

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Moving on now to a traditionally tailored menswear brand, Stephen F., but with this year, taking a spin on mens’ looks for women! Presenting, Men’s Dream Collection —

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Looks left to right —

  • Black linen blend tuxe jacket & nylon shorts with blue linen pocket square
  • Black cotton long-sleeved button down, light orange knit tie, bright orange linen blazer, & coffee summer light wool pinstriped trousers
  • Sunshine yellow suede bomber jacket & nylon shorts, with light orange suede portfolio
  • Linen blend houndstooth tuxedo blazer & shorts, and blue silk pocket square
  • Suede bomber jacket in lily, lavender silk scarf, and maroon linen blend trousers
  • Olive green summer wool/silk textured tuxedo shorts suit
  • Maroon linen blend 2-button suit, light pink silk scarf, and metallic lilac pocket square
  • Light blue suede bomber, dark grey summer wool trousers, and ivory silk scarf
  • Tangerine suede bomber jacket, light orange cotton long-sleeved button down, black summer wool tuxedo trousers, and lilac leather portfolio.
  • Black linen blend double breasted suit, white cotton long-sleeved button down, and light grey silk pocket square.

Such a dynamic presentation, great tapered looks for women, but of course in a full-on men’s tailored style. The colors work and of course the cuts. These looks are very modern and work for the fashion-forward, professional businesswoman.

Additional presentation details —

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More from NYMD for SS 2015 — Suits to Sporty!

With 10 designers presenting for NYMD there are of course will be several posts on Fashion Nexus detailing this major NYFW event. Check out my most recent piece here! So again, NYMD is held at Industria Superstudios and is presented by Cadillac. For my next 2 designers, they run the gamut, suits to casualwear to more sporty looks – it’s David Hart & Gents!

DAVID HART SS15 LOOK 5

Purple English Mohair suit with an aqua silk atomic printed camp shirt

For Spring/Summer 2015, David Hart was inspired by all things Palm Springs – the natural landscape, as well as the Modernist architecture by greats such as Alexander, Neutra, Frey, Wexier, and Lautner.

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The color palette was drawn from Julius Shulman’s color photography –

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English Mohair suit in baby blue with pink silk atomic printed camp shirt

Further color inspiration from the prints & patterns captured from Shulman’s images –

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Atomic printed shorts suit in cotton linen

This collection for men is bright & fun, full of life and energy. It’s for a man who wants to be fashionable and is not afraid to be just that — a fashionable man!

Additional presentation details –

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Electric blue English wool hopsack suit with Italian silk atomic printed camp shirt

  • Music – Work TVK, Xavier Ames
  • Lighting – Aion
  • Models – Request, NYMM, Q Models, One Model Management, Soul Models, DNA, & Wilhelmina

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Italian silk jacquard tuxe jacket, black mohair tuxedo trousers, cotton pique tuxedo shirt, atomic printed cotton bowtie, & cotton pocket square

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Italian silk camp shirt, completely encompassed by a rust atomic print with Irish linen trousers in sand

Additional Event sponsors — hint water; Trask; Need edition; & Johnston and Murphy.

Next up Gents — a S/S collection inspired by the athletic and masculine elements of boxing as well as the clean lines and colors found in Formula 1 racing. The blending of both aesthetics makes for a strong collection of sporty and casual separates, caps and accessories.

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The collection is rooted in minimalist design, classic silhouettes, and timeless sophistication. The brand started out with luxury caps and has since expanded into a complete lifestyle brand. What growth!

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Sky blue linen cap, indigo raw stretch denim shirt, white/grey cotton baseball shirt, sangre lambskin leather trim pant

So what’s in store with the Gents color palette — bold reds, as seen above, but also seasonless undertones, greys, navy —

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Gray/black microfiber ‘haystack’ cap, midnight/charcoal snow jersey cotton s/s henley, heather grey french terry sport pant

also blacks & white —

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Aurelien: salmon linen cap, white/black dual color dress shirt, ‘dean’ raw selvage denim street leg jean 

The brand also plays around with geometric patterns and prints, referencing the uniforms worn in Formula 1 races. Gents offers a great deal of dynamic menswear options for the brand’s male consumers, ones that will make him fashion-forward and insanely eye-catching!

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Nikolai: black lambskin leather ‘g’ cap, midnight brushed tricot track jacket, black french terry sport short

Additional Show details —

Launched in 2012 by industry veteran, Josh Reed, Gents is a men’s lifestyle brand offering consumers the highest quality product with a fashionable and sophisticated design aesthetic. Gents can be found at retailers ranging from Bloomingdale’s, Nordstrom, SCOOP and Saks Fifth Avenue, as well as its e- commerce site.

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Leo: black brushed cotton/spandex cap, white/black snow jersey cotton s/s henley, ‘jagger’ slim japanese raw jean

NYMD — Casual Spring/Summertime Looks for 2015

NY Menswear Day was back in action for 2015, presenting collections during 2 time slots on Sept. 3rd, encompassing 10 designer presentations. The event was sponsored by Cadillac and was held at Industria Superstudios. For menswear, NYMD had it all — suits, casual pieces, layering, prints, textures, outerwear, and more! Let’s take a look at 2 menswear brands who showcased tons of fun with that of casual looks for S/S 2015 — Original Penguin & Lucio Castro:

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For Spring 2015, Original Penguin takes inspiration from the energetic and glamorous “Magic City” itself: late 1950’s Miami. As the heat begins to build, the collection moves poolside and emulates a tone of modern preppiness, mixing chambrays with vintage-floral prints. Let’s get to know — Original Penguin’s “Magic City” SS 15 collection —

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Checkered reversible jacket; Palm-print collared shirt; Chambray linen shorts; navy leather bag; & “The Rave” white sneakers

For the guy who embraces a more refined style, there are also options of seersucker suits, keeping him sophisticated yet cool before retiring for an evening of casual rooftop games.

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Chambray linen blazer; Floulard collared shirt; Slim fit trousers in bright white; “The Woods” sunglasses; & Denim dress shoes

The color palette — chromatic blues — Conversational jacket; Plaid shirt; Classic blue slim fit pants; & Canvas high tops. 1409843540126_original-penguin-spring-summer-2015-1VIBRANT GREENS, with a splash of aqua and soft pinks, all of which provides a contrast, reminiscent of the saturated colors of beachfront homes set against the soft pastel colors of Miami’s art-deco streets.

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Island-printed collared shirt; Solid shorts in carmine rose; “The Brooklyn” sunglasses; grey watch; & “The Rave”, white sneaker

The looks were all well put together, lots of light layers, and perfect for a guy who needs a mix of streetwear casual looks, more laid back summertime fun pieces, and even those times calling for more upscale numbers, perhaps a spring wedding.

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Additional presentation details —

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Ocean Drive tee; Flamingo swim shorts; “The Randall” sunglasses; & Espy seersucker flip-flops

  • Casting — Trew Productions — Same for Lucio Castro (details below)
  • PR — Agentry PR — Same for Lucio Castro (details below)
  • House Photograpy — Keith Morrison
  • Models — Adam, Click, Ford, Fusion, IMG, NY Models, One, Request, Soul, & Wilhelmina.
  • Music — Original Penguin

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Striped polo shirt; Floral swim shorts; & “The Rave”, white  sneaker

Additional Event Sponsors — Need, Black Velvet, hint Water, Peroni, & Svedka. Hint & Need are also the same for Lucio Castro (details below).

Moving on now, let’s learn about Lucio Castro for S/S 2015, “Soviet Summer” —

Summertime nostalgia and the romance of our youthful freedom is at the heart of the Lucio Castro Spring/Summer 2015 collection. Castro references both his own childhood, spent away from the sun and in the cinema in his hometown for Buenos Aires, as well as the iconography of “Soviet summers” in the stark, almost desolate beach towns of Odessa and Sopot in the 1970’s and 80’s.

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Melange green Boris cardigan; Green reverse striped collared shirt; & Cream quilted knit shorts.

Found throughout the collection are nods to Castro’s past, further enriched by Castro’s passion for film and the character behind the clothes.

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Green reversible Odessa Tuck striped crew shirt; Olive Mac with batik polka dots lining; & Olive Donnie pants.

The collection is infused with subtle coloring and hues — tans

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Natural blue/yellow Sopot Chunky cardigan & Cream, white, striped textured shorts

Shades of Blues —

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Blue Shibori shirt; Blue bucket V-neck swearter; & Blue quilted shorts

And greys!

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Charcoal & blue linen/rayon suit, and Cream striped placket shirt.

These looks are quite daring, a perfect fit for the man who is not afraid to say “I love fashion”! Love the layering, great use of color & textures, and loads of fun with the prints.

Additional event details —

LUCIO CASTRO SS15 LOOK EIGHT

Reclaimed vintage “Pan Am” towel sweatshirt & Black “Donnie” shorts

Additional event sponsors — Trask and Johnston & Murphy.

LUCIO CASTRO SS15 LOOK FIVE

Grey Harbor embroidered sweatshirt; Navy fine plaid shirt; & Blue quilted sweatpants.

Take the Journey with Antonio Azzuolo

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antonio azzuolo in addition with many others took part in Agentry PR & Cadillac’s NY Menswear Day for NYFW. The brand’s fall/winter 2014 is the reflection of a journey — “the journey from one decade to another, from the cities visited and lived in to people we meet that inspire our being & work.” The journey doesn’t stop there, it’s ongoing. It spans from childhood to adulthood to the beyond. This collection represents a moving tribute to this entire journey and homage to its, the journey, life’s many players.

azzu8You will probably notice one difference between this presentation and the other menswear presentations I’ve covered — there are both men & women in the show. That is because antonio azzuolo embraces duality & a unisex vibe, with a lent focus to both masculine & feminine silhouettes and styles. But the duality aspect is not just about gender roles, it’s also about the past & future, classic & cutting edge, modernism & traditionalism.

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The styles and silhouettes are certainly a unique take from what I’ve seen with other collections, very refreshing! The collection “celebrates the hybrid of luxury tailoring & downtown cool…Savile Row meets the Lower East Side. The brand is known for exactly what this collection encapsulates — NY street style, but thru a refined lens. He explores a youthful archetype, with a goal of building the fundamentals of a man’s wardrobe.

azzu11I’ve said it already, but there is clearly something different, unique, and refreshing with this collection. Yes, it’s for the fall/winter 2014 season and it sets in with a darker color palette and vibe. But with that and if it was just that, the collection would be a DUD and this just isn’t. I like the takes on layering, the textures, and the occasional, but warranted pops of color.

azzu5                                     azzu7Just a bit of background on a.a., Azzuolo attended Ryerson University in Toronto where he received a BAA in apparel design, specializing in men’s tailoring. He also won 1st place in the menswear category at the prestigious festival “Festival des Jeunes Stylistes de Hyeres.” Azzuolo has refined his skills by working with major brands such as Hermes and Ralph Lauren. He was also selected as a finalist for the CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund & nominated for the FGI Men’s Apparel rising star award. Recently he was nominated for the CFDA Swarovski Menswear award.


azzu1The brand has also experienced a large and great variety of press Nylon, Details, Vogue Italia, WWD, Paper, Out, Interview, NY Times, Flaunt, GQ, and Esquire. And now, here are some of my fave pieces from this current collection:

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SHOUT-OUTS

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David Hart’s Classic & Tailored Looks for Autumn/Winter 2014-2015

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David Hart was another fabulous designer presentation that took part of Agentry PR & Cadillac’s NY Menswear Day. Hart’s third showing during NYFW was this Autumn/Winter 2014/2015 collection presentation. The inspiration for the collection was the classic television series “The Twilight Zone” by Rod Serling, with the goal being to reflect an age where television was making its way into every home in America as the newest medium for disseminating information.

DSC00248Now I never watched the Twilight series so I can’t speak to that specifically, but I could certainly see a nod & throwback to classic TV and the wardrobe of that era with these suits. Suits with a full-on modern vibe go unbuttoned or no tie, but David Hart’s pieces are back to the complete look — 3-piece suits, cardigans, the tie, fully buttoned, scarfs, just attention to the details. I think this collection consistently sticks to Hart’s aesthetic in lending a a modern eye with a nostalgic twist.

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Static textures run throughout the collection with the color palette inspired by contemporary photographer, Alex Prager, who is able to capture moods of tension, suspense, isolation and sadness in flat colorful imagery – creating a modern day version of film noir. The textures & colors of this collection really interplay quite beautifully, with softer moments in greys, tweeds, & charcoals to brighter moments of burgundies, shades of blue, & shades of green.

DSC00242There is a lot of versatility & style to this collection. The looks could grace a variety of venues and would work for a wide variety of men. There are full on amped looks with tuxes, but there are also some more casual looks. There is even the ability to do so many mix & match set-ups since most of the looks encompass so many separates.

DSC00327                                                           DSC00251David Hart is all about tailoring and since being with his own line, he has attracted some major celeb clientele, such as Andy Samberg and Daniele Radcliffe. Pieces of Hart’s previous collections can be found at top-tier retailers such as Bloomingdale’s, Saks Fifth Avenue and directly at www.davidhartnyc.com.

DSC00243There are so many looks, but here are just a few faves…

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Sportcoat in gray Harris Tweed, Cardigan in Merino wool, cotton dress shirt, wool flannel trousers, & silk shantung tie

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Sportscoat in red Donegal tweed, turtleneck in red Merino wool, & trousers in charcoal Gaberdine wool.

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Tuxedo in black Mohair, cotton tuxedo shirt, English silk braces, & English silk bowtie

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Tweed sportscoat, navy blue turtleneck, & grey trousers

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Light blue printed turtleneck sweater & plaid trousers

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Sportscoat in moss green Donegal tweed, chocolate wool flannel trousers, cotton dress shirt, raw English silk tie, & mustard Lambswool scarf

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Electric Blue wool hopsack suit, cotton dress shirt, & raw silk tie

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3-piece suit in bronze mohair, cotton dress shirt & raw silk tie

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Emerald wool hopsack suit, cotton dress shirt, & raw silk tie

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Irish Fisherman’s cardigan in chocolate Donegal wool yarn, Merino wool cardigan, bronze Mohair trousers, cotton dress shirt, & Irish cableknit scarf in grey Donegal wool

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Irish Fisherman’s sweater in moss green Donegal wool yarn, gold Mohair trousers, & cotton dress shirt

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Just to add, here is a bit of background on David Hart. At seventeen, he received the Fashion Group International Scholarship Award and moved to New York City to study at the Fashion Institute of Technology.  In 2004, he received his BFA in fashion design, with a specialization in evening wear and tailoring. Over the next seven years, while designing for Anna Sui, Tommy Hilfiger, and Ralph Lauren, Hart refined his skills. In 2009, Hart launched his independent neckwear line, David Hart & Co. He then debuted his first full ready-to-wear collection of menswear in 2013 under the label David Hart.

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