NYMD — Part 1

No better way to kick off NYFW:Men then New York Menswear Day, presented by Cadillac at Industria Studios. Here are the first set of designers!

DAVID HART

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The AW’16 collection is inspired by Blue Note Jazz and the effortlessly cool musicians like Jimmy Smith, Art Blakey, and Max Roach. Photographs by Francis Wolff and graphic design by Reid Miles were the inspiration for the color palette and textiles this season.

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David Hart always puts out a superb showing and this collection is right in line with what I’ve come to know and love about the brand. The pieces are high quality and really perfection for the modern, trendy man. His plaid pieces this season really caught my eye!

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STYLING, CASTING, PRODUCTIONConsortium; HAIR — Kien Hoang for Oribe; MAKEUP — Suzana Hallili using Perfekt Beauty & Mario Badescu skin care; PR — Agentry PR; SHOES — Johnston & Murphy; MODELS — Red, Wilhelmina, DNA, NYM; MUSIC — Xavier Aimes; GLASSES — Moscot; ADDITIONAL SPONSORS — William Grant & Sons, Glenfiddich, Aqua Brands, American Woolen Company

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GARCIAVELEZ

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This season aims to shift away from New York’s fast-paced environment to seek renewal and reflection in the healing environs of thermal baths tucked away deep in the Alps. With that, we get pieces that are wearable, comfortable and the perfect blend of luxury meets function.

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The outerwear pieces for Garciavelez’s collection are eye-catching, I love the loose fits, with mixed media and multi-toned color palettes.

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MAX N’ CHESTER

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For Max N’ Chester, designed by Peter Trainor, this collection puts together a 54-piece line including tailored shirts, suits and contemporary outwear for men. Trainor also included expanded womenswear matching its male counterpart. He introduced two exclusive fabrics to the collection.

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“I am excited to bring forward a collection that offers the signature Max ‘n Chester look and also incorporates modernity and newness,” said Trainor. “Maintaining our four pillars of brand philosophy: fabric, design, silhouettes, and comfort, the fall winter 2016 line is impeccably curated for anyone that seeks ultimate luxury.”

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EDMUND OOI

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Edmund Ooi aimed to blend collegiate prep with club kids. Inspired by the class of 2525, the designer offered up a futuristic take on the schoolboy uniform, complete with turtlenecks, leather perfecto jackets and duffel coats, all styled with cuffed denim jeans.

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“I’m thinking about the student of the future and played on the idea of the uniform,” said Ooi. I really like this take myself. There is a futuristic vibe and I feel as if I’m seeing something quite different here.

Edmund Ooi Men's RTW Fall 2016

KRAMER STOUDT

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Mike Rubin, a Southern California native who launched his line in 2012, consistently draws from the surf, skate and punk culture of the Seventies and Eighties. But for his fall 2016 collection, he also pulled from German artist Markus Lüpertz, who regularly depicted a male dandy in his paintings.

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With this collection, Kramer Stoudt not only captivated his audience with an intriguing presentation set-up, but also well-made, impeccable pieces, varying form suits to basics to outerwear.

Krammer & Stoudt Men's RTW Fall 2016

PLAC

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Titled “Retro Spectrum”, PLAC’s fall/winter 2016 collection is filled with textures that evoke 1990’s grunge between the Britpop and Madchester sub­culture music scene. Nostalgic sports aesthetics from the late 80’s and early 90’s are apparent throughout with pops of colors, prints and patterns.

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Using familiar materials in an unfamiliar way is a core statement throughout the collection with pressed wool coats, knits infused with rayon, jackets with raccoon fur lining, and fabric blocking. Pops of cyber blue stand against a neutral color palette of black, white and olive.

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STYLING — Tom Van Dorpe; CASTING — Maurilio Carnino for MTC Casting; MAKEUP — Perfekt; HAIR — Oribe; SHOES — Dr. Martens; PR — Agentry PR; HOUSE PHOTOGRAPHY — Eric White; VIDEO — Alexey Yurenev; MUSIC — Yun B; STAGE & LIGHTING DESIGN — Max Relax; ADDITIONAL SPONSORS — American Woolens, Johnston & Murphy, Mario Bedescu, Aqua Brands

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Happy Holidays from Fashion Nexus!!

Fashion Christmas Tree

It’s that time of the year! And even though the weather is not too cold out, I’m hoping all of my fashionable Fashion Nexus readers are getting into the holiday spirit. And to help, here are a few fave looks of mine that would be perfect for any holiday get-togethers one might have this holiday season — ENJOY!!

MODCLOTH

Like a Bossa Nova

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Only In Merry Tales Dress

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ELIZA J.

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CAP SLEEVE LACE COLUMN DRESS WITH ASYMETRICAL PLEATED WAISTBAND AND EMBELLISHED DRAPE

Sleeveless Lace & Fit Flare Dress

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FRANCESCA’S

Roxie Beaded Skirt

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Shelley Beaded Skirt

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HILTON HOLLIS

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Barrique Scarf & Crocodile Pencil Skirt

BOSTON PROPER

Winter Sky Sweater

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ERIN FETHERSTON

Polly Dress

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Savannah Dress

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CALYPSO ST. BARTH

Sequin Encrusted Pants

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Baleska Embroidered Dress

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DVF

Ceramic & Embellished Shift Dress

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Julianna Lace Wrap Dress

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TRINA TURK

Vendetta Jumpsuit

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FRENCH CONNECTION

Linea Lace Shift Dress

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PR — The Finale

So yes, finally getting around to blogging about the final eps of Project Runway and definitely just happy to get it over with at this point. I got behind on the episodes, but ultimately, I wasn’t feeling these final few shows of the season, all in all, quite disappointing. And the way everything ended up with the final 4, it certainly wasn’t making me jump to my computer to blog away. But as an avid PR fan, blog away, I must, and I did want to applaud one designer I was happy with this season — Kelly. She was my winner for the season. More on that later, but first, a bit on the episode before the finale (yep, definitely not dedicating 2 separate posts for this finale!).

pr14-ep13-episode15So of course as the almost finale began, it was clear Edmond would be saved, despite the edit attempts of it all being drawn out. Tim Gunn save used. The designers were headed home with 9k to create a 10 look collection. The Tim visit of course came sooner rather than later and the designers were quite eager.

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Tim advised Ashley to keep her hand natural when designing and not to go too matronly. For Candice, he made sure to warn her about over-designing, to keep an editing eye. Kelly found a fan in Tim, but he asked that she make sure her looks had a luxe feel, not to go the cheap route. And finally, with Edmond, he was left with a lot of work to do as not much had been accomplished.

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The designers were back to NY, Kelly feeling as if she was done, while Edmond still had 3 looks to complete and he was not even unpacking! Tim came by shortly after everyone had settled into the workroom. He told the designers they would present 3 looks to the judges for feedback. However, one of those looks had to be brand spankin’ new, created just in that 1 day. The designers were then headed to Mood with a budget of $250, which could be used in any way to enhance their collection. At Mood, we saw some zipper wars and Edmond somehow racking up a whopping $395, way over budget!! It was then again Tim-time.

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Tim instructed Kelly to think of proportion and Ashley received this same critique. With Edmond, it was all about what to present to the judges. And with Candice, there was worry over cohesion. So at this point I would cut to the judges’ critique on the 3-look presentation, but I will save that for my final discussion on each collection. So instead, I will skip to the next segment right before the final collections were presented at Fashion Week. After the judges’ critiques, the designers had 2 days to get to work and many had lots of work to do, well…..according to the judges.

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The final episode of the season began with Tim allowing the designers to hit up Mood once more. Tim himself would do the shopping. Ashley & Kelly only took part, with no objection from Candice or Edmond. Tim later went over the judges’ notes with each designer. Brian Bolain of Lexus popped in to let the designers know they could make use of 2 Lexus coops to arrive in style for their shows. Lots of last minute craziness was of course occurring in this episode. But as per usual, everything seemed to go off without a hitch. And the guest judge on the presentations of the final 4 was country music superstar Carrie Underwood.

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So without further delay, let’s get to the most important part of the finale of PR — the fashion week presentations. Ashley won, but I am going to begin with my choice for the winner, Kelly!

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After the judges’ initial critiques I was afraid Kelly would drastically change up her collection as Candice did and that would have been such a shame. Kelly is a really cool designer and this is a very hip collection. I am not sure I can rock all of Kelly’s looks, but they do make me kind of want to try. Kelly is all about experimentation and she very much makes me want to experiment with my own fashion choices.

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Kelly was the designer who stayed most true to herself. She has such a clear vision. She has a type of girl and this girl will go and buy these pieces. She has a unique spirit and you can see that in her work. Her styling was also very spot on, just such great work on the accessories, the hair (Sally Beauty), and the makeup (Mary Kay) — it was all spectacular.

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When it came down to the judges thoughts, early on, Nina was quick to quip that she couldn’t tell what garment was made in only a day, because what she saw, it was hard to tell. She also said that this didn’t feel like a collection that was 9k worth. How the judges could think this, but somehow feel as if their winner Ashley’s collection looked like 9k, mind boggling! Like seriously! I think the tip to amp up the styling was a good thought, but overall, Kelly was lacking in judges’ support and the producers when it would come to naming her as the winner. There were other plans in mind!

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But overall I applaud Kelly for staying true to herself all season. She was a dark horse and coming in 2nd was a huge accomplishment for her. I will definitely be keeping an eye on this talented lady in the future!

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I wish Candice had channeled some Kelly vibes when it came to her final presentation. I will still keep an eye out for Candice in the future, but her major downfall in this finale was listening to the judges in their initial critique. Her collection could have used some downplay, but taking out most, if not all of the drama, spice, and intrigue was a major mistake. She had some highlights still, but her moment felt much more blah without the full on Candice I’m sure we all wanted to see.

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If the winner was always going to be Ashley, even if Candice had gone full on in her presentation, it wouldn’t have gotten her the win, but it would have made her way more memorable. Having seen what was there before, it just really made me want more. I really just wanted to see that big ole’ dress she made, hoop skirt and all walk the runway!

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And I think the last minute changes led to some of what the judges later critiqued on, which was fit issues. I’m not sure what the judges were going on about with cohesion. I totally still saw Candice in what she presented. And had she done it the way she initially intended, I think the cohesive elements would have in fact been stronger.

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I’m sure she will present again and I’m sure she will not let anyone hold her back this time! But another great bit of work here from the Mary Kay team, Sally Beauty squad, and Just Fab accessories!

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Edmond, sadly, was the throwaway of the final 4. He started out so strong this season, but started to lag in the final few challenges. Tim Gunn had a save to use and thus he was saved. But based on this collection, it was not needed. The judges’ critiques early on were about ampin’ up the sexy vibe they had come to know from Edmond. But that was my biggest issue I had with his final pieces — where and who was Edmond??

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I’m not sure based off these final pieces if I could pick an Edmond original out in the future. This collection left me wondering who he is as a designer. There were some pretty dresses here, but nothing inventive or too creative. In fact, the one piece I adored the most from Edmond, below, is the one I see as the least like him of the bunch.

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More gorgeous work from Mary Kay, Sally Beauty and the Just Fab accessories!

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This work reminded me of Edmond’s Just Fab challenge win — the sexy red dress. It was a gorgeous dress, so sexy, so wearable, but a bit of a snooze-fest in the way of being unique. Nothing really here knocked me out of my socks or was that intriguing. I wasn’t taking too many 2nd glances. I’m sure a lot of women would want to wear some of these dresses, but likely wouldn’t know who they were wearing. It wouldn’t me memorable enough for them to want repeat looks by the designer.

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This leaves us with discussing the winner of Project Runway this season, Ashley. I have loved so many of Ashley’s looks this season. But as the season dwindled down, I became less and less of a fan. There always seemed to be so much drama and so many tears. I was kind of over it after a bit. And then came her final presentation — a first ever for PR, a plus size collection. I applaud the effort and I was happy she went for it, but to me, she came up sub-par.

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I know I am not the only one to think this or to even say it, but Ashley won this season solely so PR could get the headline — “First plus-size designer wins PR.” It was all about the press and the headline because it surely wasn’t about these pieces. It was an okay collection, but there were so many fit issues and so many flaws. There were very few standouts. I was also unimpressed by the repetition — lots of crop tops and skirts — yawnnnnnn!

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And the only way I think 9k was utilized on this collection was because of the headpieces. They were gorgeous and looked more thought out than some of pieces. But yes, we sure had to hear enough about them. I think Ashley missed out by not using any prints, but many of these pieces didn’t feel luxe to me. And I again point out the flaws — all of the shorts were so ill-fitting.

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The color palette didn’t lend a hand in that department either, so many baby pinks and light teals, left the collection lacking in a rich, special quality. The exception is this look below, which was oddly enough the one she banged out in a day. The deep color was beautiful and the overall quality was heightened.

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One other standout was the floral motif skirt below and it was a bit of a showpiece, but one of very few that looked like work was put into it and even some of that 9k.

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I digress again, it seemed as if the end was predetermined — that a larger vision was in the midst. It’s happened before where the winner was a bit questionable and I’m sure it will happen again in the future. But for an overall disappointing season, I didn’t expect much here.

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A final rant/note then on reunion episode, which of course was filled with some laughs, drama, and intriguing aspects. But of course the focus was back to the most drama-filled episode this season, we all know it, the “Mean Girls” episode. And yes, I use quotation marks because I questioned the episode back then and still question the big deal over it now. I loved that it was pointed out that the girls were all being judged, yet none of the guys got called out for not picking Ashley. I don’t care if they had a plan to not do so. If she was such a great designer, one whom everyone should have wanted to work with, how only the female cast should take the blame is beyond ridiculous. She didn’t lend much to the creative process and her look was pretty much crap that week. It was one of the worst ones, so she should have taken some heat on this. She had already gotten one free ride from the Hallmark challenge, so to see her put out another bad look on the runway was clearly an issue in my opinion. It seemed to me as if all of a sudden, just this episode, those few girls were dubbed as mean girls, no mention of this before and really there was no evidence of anything shown in the episode where these girls were badmouthing Ashley or treating her so poorly. If the drama was there, the producers would have shown more. It was such a stretch. And then poof, it was all soon forgotten. No more mean girls the rest of the season, yet somehow, in the reunion episode, it was all brought up again.

Very much ready at this point for All-stars, next season, anything to get true competitive juices flowing again!

Happy Thanksgiving from Fashion Nexus!!

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Thanksgiving and more of the fall season approaches this week. With that in mind, let’s get in the mindset with some fall, holiday inspired looks. So whether you are taking part in a momentous family dinner or out with friends this fall, get in the spirit and let these looks below inspire your Autumn season looks!

DESIGUAL

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Charly Dress

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Hedo Dress

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Althea Skirt

ELIZA J

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Sleeveless Jacquard Midi Dress with Beaded Belt

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Striped Jacquard Midi Skirt

MODCLOTH

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Maximum Audacity Dress

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Exultant Consultant Dress

FRANCESCA’S

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Janelle Metallic Lace Dress

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Savannah Sweater Dress

LAUREN CONRADKOHLS

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Antique Romance Look

JENNIFER LOPEZ FOR KOHLS — COWLNECK JUMPSUIT

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BOSTON PROPER

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Floral lace top

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Velvet Tie-Side Tunic

NIC+ZOE

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Embroidered Mesh Top

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Shaded Waves Top

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Tailored Tapestry Skirt

FEATHER & BONE

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Faye Button-Up Dress

ALISON SHERI

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From Fashion Nexus…..

happy-thanksgiving

PR Designers & PR Crew Combine!

PR sneaks in every season the challenge where the designers have to design for real women. And by that, it means there model for the week is not a model, but rather your everyday woman. This season was a bit more special in that the real woman makeover would be for members of the PR crew. This would also be a Sally Beauty challenge as Libby Bisanz and Gregory Patterson of Sally Beauty joined Tim to hand down the challenge details. So each designer would have their woman and was responsible for their own look —  no blame games! They were to create a look going from workday to runway extraordinary. And the sky was the limit in terms of the direction of the look.

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Gregory was on board this week to work with each designer/woman team for their entire makeover effect — new cut & color. So with the details set forth, everyone began with excitement for this 2-day challenge and a budget of $200. The initial excitement soon faded though with Merline in jacket woes, Ashley in tears, and Swapnil back on the smoke train.

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As day 2 began it was soon time for not just Tim-time, but also fittings. Tim was quite invested in this challenge because it is the PR crew. Tim advised Kelly she might need more. With Candice, he was seeing oatmeal. Did Edmond have a camel toe issue? But it was Swapnil who was again the center of attention. Tim was over the BS and then dropped the F bomb. While other designers were having issues with their looks, Swapnil was have issues with his look and really working with his model’s needs. Tim ended up telling everyone that they truly needed to rally and they could have another fitting. But even with the 2nd fitting, Swapnil was still having issues.

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The morning of, Swapnil was still having troubles and as always, Merline was running around! Guest judges this week were the starts of Lifetime’s new show Unreal, Shiri Appleby & Constance Zimmer.

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So my main issue this week, with this challenge, is that I only feel like 1 designer kind of stepped up to the plate here and that was the winner, Kelly. Last week was a disappointment and I don’t think these looks were much better. It seems as if too many designers as of late are resting on their laurels and not really pushing themselves. I know the heavy focus for this was put on Swapnil the past few weeks. But really, quite a few others have too been dropping the ball and I wouldn’t have put all of the heat on Swapnil.

Shout-out — Love the new Sally Beauty do, great job on a clean, natural makeup look by Mary Kay, also great accessories to the look, JustFab

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I’m not sure if I could rock Kelly’s look for Ashleigh, but Ashleigh sure does. Kelly created a look that was great looking, but also what her client wanted. It was also still very much Kelly’s voice in the piece, which many other designers were looking.

Shout-outs — another great makeover look from both Sally Beauty & Mary Kay!

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I guess a runner-up look this week was Merline’s 3-piece set for Katie. Although runner-up has a little meaning here since the rest were all very so-so. I think it was great Merline did create a jacket because outside of that she made a tank with a slit skirt, not much there! But really the jacket was ok, nothing to stellar. And ultimately, Katie never wanted a jacket. Merline found fortune in that everyone else kind of blew it this week, but I’m still not that impressed with her output this week.

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I guess then in the standards of everyone else not stepping up, this meant too that Edmond was either safe or in the top 3, which is utterly odd with his creation for the week. It was just such a yawn and the raincoat and dress had such a disconnect. With Kelly being the winner this week, I see the standard as give your client what they want, make it be exciting, and it should represent your designer aesthetic. It seems as if Edmond pleased Desiree, but again, the look wasn’t exciting and I didn’t see Edmond in the look at all.

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To start off the bottom 3, we can then move to Candice. At first glance I didn’t hate this, but upon closer inspection, the positives do start to fade. I do see what the judges are saying in that this kind of crosses a line. It’s not Candice’s best work, although Monique didn’t seem to mind. I think Candice just had a hard time thinking more RTW, just as the last challenge, but also maintaining her voice.

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It was kind of clear that Swapnil was going out this week, but I think if the judges had sent 2 designers home, Ashley should have been in the mix. She has had some great looks this season, but she has also put down the runway some not so great ones. And when she is on the not so great line, it really is not great! The most disappointing aspect was this was Ashley’s challenge, among all of the others. She prides herself on designing for plus-sized, everyday women. But to see that this is what she created, it’s like really?? I believe Ashley tries to rely to much on prints, but what makes it worse is then the use of a print in an unimaginative silhouette, such as here, a fitted dress with peplum, woohoo! Poor Nicole!

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So yes, this meant that Swapnil was out. My thinking on him is just that PR is not for him. I’ve seen his work pre-PR and it was super stunning. I’ve caught an eye at his decoy collection for the finale and it was too mesmerizing. This to me would never scream Swapnil. But I will say that Jennifer was quite a difficult client. I think any other designer who could have been paired with her would have run into some issues. I’m not sure she was getting the concept of “makeover”, or even that she wanted one. With a makeover, you should seek something special and really collaborate to fulfill a fantasy. Swapnil did get lost here and out of answers as to what Jennifer wanted. Such a shame, but I would be very intrigued to have seen what this girl would have been pleased with that would have been showstopping on a runway!

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PR Designers Design for JustFab

This week — the RTW, traditional design for the sponsor of our show challenge! More specifically, the designers were asked to create RTW looks that could be reproduced and sold online for JustFab. Tim was joined by Just Fab Fashion Director Yuchin Mao to provide the challenge details. JustFab has various style personas for their customers — Girl Next Door; Bombshell; Trendsetter; Modern Classic; Femme Nouveau. Each designer would be given a persona to design for in order to create a high fashion look that could be sold at an affordable price. In fact, the winning look would be reproduced and sold online!

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Last week’s winner, Candice, received the honor then of not only selecting her persona of choice, but the persona for each of the other designers. All were mostly happy!

  • Candice — Trendsetter
  • Ashley — Girl Next Door
  • Swapnil — Bombshell
  • Kelly — Trendsetter
  • Laurie — Modern Classic
  • Merline — Femme Nouveau
  • Edmond — Bombshell

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Everyone was then off to Mood for this 1-day challenge with a budget of only a $100. Ashley had to make some cuts at the register as she was over. And to top it off, she bought the wrong kind of zipper. But during Tim-time, others were a focus, as well as a little surprise!

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Tim and Swapnil were not seeing eye to eye. Laurie was asked if she was really putting something new down the runway. And Edmond was being labeled as “basic.” Tim’s little surprise was another small component of the challenge. Each designer would have to create a label to print and wear on a t-shirt for the runway show. They would use the Brother printer to assist with the label-making process.

  • Swapnil — Swapnil Shinde
  • Laurie — Wanda Grace
  • Merline — Provoke Style
  • Kelly — Rack Addick
  • Candice — Ccuoco
  • Edmond — Edmond Newton

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Model fittings actually presented a lot of major fit issues, leaving some designers unsure and others to start all over again. The “morning of” was just as crazy as the end of the night. Laurie had so much to do in starting over. Swapnil too had a wrong zipper and so he sewed his model into the dress. Merline even had her model assisting. This week’s guest judges were singer Ciara & Yuchin of JustFab.

Shout-outs — Sally Beauty, such gorgeous, flowing locks; Natural, clean Mary Kay look; perfect JustFab accessories, black clutch & killer heels!

pr14-ep9-enHeidi announced this would be the last immunity given out for the season. Somehow, amidst all of the craziness with judging, Edmond was declared the winner. I’m not sure what really happened here, with the designers, with the judges. But this was pure craziness and chaos. The fact of the matter here is no designer had a great look. Edmond winning was really like the best of the worst. This is not to say Edmond’s dress was bad. I agreed with Heidi in that it’s a great red dress, super sexy, and I’m sure people would buy it. But I also agreed with Nina & Zac. This was just a basic, red dress. There was nothing special to it. I didn’t see Edmond in it. And if I saw it hanging on a Macy’s rack, it would blend in. We’ve seen this before.

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Shout-outs — Such a cute hairdo from Sally Beauty and love the beauty look, Mary Kay

If there was a top 3, I guess Ashley would be there. I mean really I think JustFab would have just sold this jacket and called it a day, but the look here in its entirety was just ok. And really Ashley didn’t do much to hype up her look. The back of the crop top was very cute, but we only saw it during the judges up close critiques. The jacket was great, but with a basic crop top & flare skirt, where a so-so print is doing all of the work, how can you get all that excited.

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I wouldn’t know who to put as the final member of the top 3. The judges were really all over the place. I guess the safe crowd was Kelly & Candice. I would likely wear Candice’s look over Kellys’ so I will discuss her next. Candice had a few finishing touch issues, which is unlike her. But I think she got bogged down in RTW. I don’t think this is her design forte and so she showed some struggles. She really needed to edit here.

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Moving on to Kelly, her look was not bad, but it just wouldn’t be for everyone. This was like Kelly to the max and I don’t think it would fit the JustFab clientele, or at least the masses. This would be for a very specific customer and I think that was a major issue here. And really the pale blue furry vest was not a fave of mine. Nina was for sure not a fan!

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But compared to the bottom 3, Kelly’s look was top notch! I’m not sure what Swapnil was thinking here. Firstly, mass production, online, JustFab — that is not this dress. And I’m not sure what the deal was with the outer portion. Did he not get that Edmond’s odd outer vest the week before had not gone over well??

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Merline has had some ideas all season, but her construction has been very questionable all season as well. But here, even some okay ideas really weren’t that great. Even if this look was fully executed, I wasn’t seeing a winner. I’d rather Laurie have not been eliminated. For me, Merline has had far too many passes on poorly crafted looks.

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Shout-out — Love the accessories, sexy heels & black clutch, JustFab & this chic updo is spot on, Sally Beauty

The week before, Laurie’s look at least had some direction, whereas Lindsey, who was eliminated, went too basic. That was Laurie’s downfall this week. Merline appeared to have had some promise with her look, some ideas, whereas Laurie’s look was far too basic — a halter and pencil skirt — not very imaginative. The top was also sheer, showing some side-boob, which was also an issue for her the week before. With that, Laurie was out.

 

 

NYFW — Modern, Glamorous Womenswear

Great takes on modern womenswear, from evening to cocktail to RTW.

Naeem Khan

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Naeem Khan is known for his beautiful and ornate gowns, and this season he did not disappoint. Inspired by sun-drenched gardens in the south of France, as well as the waters of Capri, Khan took us on a luxe journey through the Mediterranean. The collection channeled the Fifties and Sixties, with Sophia Loren, Grace Kelly, Brigitte Bardot and Jackie Kennedy as his muses. Khan imagined how they would dress for parties while on vacation.

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The outcome was a collection of brimming with rich embroideries, intricate beading, basket-weave sequins and woven raffia. A vibrant palette included sunset hues of yellow, orange and bright pink, as well as azure, lilac, red rose and celadon green. Even the runway itself was decorated full-on, with a floral wall and an arched white doorway.

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There were a ton of standout looks that graced this runway. I often include Khan’s work on my Best Dressed lists and am positive we should see a few of these gowns grace a red carpet or 2 in the coming award season.

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KYE

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Korean designer Kathleen Kye is known in Seoul for her high-end streetwear looks, but now it’s her bold and witty K-Pop-inspired looks that are hitting it big on the runway. This season she referenced her thoughts on hate, or rather, the kind of hate akin to friendly jealously.

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The inspiration came across as literal text on tops and jackets, with graphics Kye makes herself in Korea. As expected, prints were abundant in the women’s looks. These prints screamed KYE to me and for me, is what makes KYE stand out!

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The menswear looks were too quite vibrant. I’m excited for KYE and her super well-rounded collection for S/S 2016.

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Mitsou Ly

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Mitsou Ly realizes garment’s unique qualities by giving it distinctive perspective, independent expression and personality. Her pieces mix feminine style with an edgy flair. The beautiful fabrics she chooses, combined with the striking designs and silhouettes make her collections truly unique. I was more than pleased to receive an invite to her NYFW show. It was exhilarating and a wonderfully put together presentation.

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Bold and vivid colors and stunning shapes are a key component to Mitsou Ly’s designs. These innovative designs mix vintage with modern; lady-like looks with revolutionary style. It all comes together to make her collection of-the-moment, sophisticated and modern. She artfully combines ruffles, satin, and geometric shapes. Even her vintage inspired pieces have an aesthetic that reflects today’s trends.

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Mitsou Ly manufactures her affordable luxury line in New York and Washington, DC.

NYFW — The Stunners!

Amazing set of stunning designers who presented stunning collections, whether it be thru elegant evening wear or imaginative RTW.

Libertine

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Johnson Hartig is one of those designers who can find inspiration in anything, adapting disparate themes to his signature psychedelic aesthetic. His DIY approach to high-end streetwear design reimagines vintage fabrics into eccentric production-ready pieces. His Libertine collections could easily veer into the tacky, but the explosion of color, pattern-play and embellishments changes that up!

Libertine RTW Spring 2016   Libertine RTW Spring 2016 

For women, there was plenty of kitsch — neon chains, beaded fringe, bedazzled teeth, patchwork utensils with dangling spaghetti fringe, etc.— the list goes on. His collection of daytime separates screamed youthful, with bright colors and tailored mix-and-match separates. I’m always excited to see the Libertine show — it’s  a vibrantly rich collection, jam-packed into a high energy show.

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Men’s looks included a disco-ball tracksuit, animal-print sweatpants and amoeba-patterned sweatshirts. With inspiration ranging from Staffordshire dogs to molecular cell research interpreted in fluorescent colors, the men’s lineup was fun and eccentric!

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Stella Nolasco

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Stella Nolasco’s S/S 2016 collection, “POMAROSA”, is inspired by the decadent beauty of the poetry of Jose de Diego, a turn of the century Puerto Rican poet, born in Stella’s hometown. Layers of tulle, lace, and sheer fabrics add movement and give life to gowns that flow with the grace of poetry, floating transparently over the runway. Seeing each breathtaking piece come down the runway I was constantly in awe, thinking ok, this look is stunning, the best of the best, can it get any better?!? And with this collection, Stella was able to prove me wrong. Every look that continued to come down the runway had it’s own individual magic, keeping me awestruck from start to finish!

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The richly embroidered dresses, in colors varying from black to blush, yellow, plum rose (Pomarosa, in various tones), evoke the gentility of a bygone era with a daring, modern turn exemplified by plunging necklines. A sheer, almost lingerie-like quality of the dresses maintains an air of romanticism and whimsicality. Stella Nolasco’s charm and metropolitan sensibility render her designs modern, stylish and edgy. Consequently, she has earned a reputation as Puerto Rico’s most avant-garde designer. Her designs exude elements of both vintage nostalgia, and sophisticated modernity.

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Stella is a household name in Puerto Rico, where her work receives near constant media coverage. Stella’s line has been featured at luxury department store, Neiman Marcus, amongst other prestigious retailers. 

Stella attended the Atmosphere show at Paris fashion week and subsequently was picked up by famous European department store, Gerard Darel, along with international boutiques around the world including Sauce (Dubai), Style (Kuwait), Les Princesses (Paris), Studio Facts (Japan), Lorenzina (Spain), amongst others.

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Stella’s designs have been worn celebrities including Beyonce Knowles (on the cover of Seventeen Magazine), Actress Kelly Reilly (Sherlock Holmes) and Actress Cote de Pablo (NCIS), to name a few. 

After her successful presentation at Mercedes Benz New York Fashion Week in September of 2014, Nolasco has enjoyed various new opportunities, including the experience of dressing the actress Juliette Lewis, who attended the Vanity Fair Oscar Party and was selected among the best dressed of the night by several fashion critics. Recently, Stella collaborated with the Hollywood actor and fashion designer, John Malkovich, for his clothing line “Technobohemian” at their fashion show in Puerto Rico.

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Show Credits

Photography — firstVIEW

Styling — Shandi Alexander

Casting — Cast Inc/Julia Samersova

Makeup — Fatima Thomas for MAC

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Hair — Laurent Dufourg & Jorge Luis for Prive

Nails — Pattie Yankee

Shoes — Christian Louboutin

Music — Eiko Hara

PR — Emily Bungert/EB Consults

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Michael Costello

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Inspired by feminine decadence, Costello is merging his bold shapes with a softer and sweeter color palate. “This collection has more movement, leaving more to the imagination,” according to Costello. “It evokes the sexiness of a tight dress with the draping of an elegant gown.” For me, these looks perfectly encapsulated classic glam with a edgy, sexy vibe — not going too far, but pushing the boundaries just enough!
Gaining recognition as both a brand and designer, Costello chose this collection to unveil brighter gem tones, using the body as contrast. “These dresses make women feel desired and unforgettable,” according to Costello. There was a lot of great color in this collection, everything from bold tones in bright yellow to forest green, subtle hues in nude and soft pink, and beautiful floral prints.
Michael Costello is a fashion designer based out of Los Angeles, CA, building his brand around elegant and sexy silhouettes. After becoming a finalist on Project Runway, Costello has gone on to design memorable creations for celebrities such as Lady Gaga, Ariana Grande, Britney Spears and is known for designing Beyoncé’s iconic 2014 Grammy gown, which is on display at the Grammy Museum. Michael’s designs have also been featured in countless editorials for International fashion publications including Vogue Italia, Elle and Marie Claire.

Photo credit — Bennet Cobliner Photography

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NYFW — Stunning Visions Come to Life!

This next batch of Fashion Week designers all had clear visions with concepts, and whether it was from cultural ties or the like, these ideas sprung to life!

Fashion Shenzhen

Various Chinese designers made their debut at Fashion Shenzhen’s S/S 2016 show. This year’s designers, Kavon, Haiping Xie, and Deng Hao, showed off their delicate and intricate collections, every artist in some way incorporating Chinese culture into their new works.

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Kavon, recognized as the first-ever Chinese designer to successfully use “colour art”, combines 3D cutting with vibrant colors to create thoughtful pieces of different shapes and sizes. With elaborate designs and statement patterns, hues of reds, yellows, blues, and whites were present in the majority of her dresses.

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In China, the designer, Deng Hao, has been nicknamed the “Chinese knitting queen”. As seen today, it is clear why she was bestowed such a name. Every piece by Deng Hao is unique and custom-made. Her collection consisted of a multitude of beautifully knit day dresses, blouses, and gaucho pants. In addition to the art of knitting, Deng Hao has also mastered the act embellishing her pieces with gems and floral patterns. Her collection debuted a variety of dresses and gowns with intricate designs and embellishments showered in layers of fabric with gems and rhinestones adorning the seams. She utilized colors of spring, popping to life her outfits with pastels of pinks, greens, blues, and whites.

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Every piece by Haiping Xie strongly incorporated Chinese heritage and culture. Black and white dresses with cutting-edge drapery in combination with sheer linen head-pieces flooded her runway show. She turned simple gowns into edgy and playful works of art. Gold, red, royal blue, and black were debuted on many of the pieces promoting a sense of Asian royalty. Collages of Chinese tradition adorned many of the dresses as well making them come to life in a story-like manner. She used sheer and silky, lightweight materials and asymmetrical hems to express the intricacy and art of her designs.

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Lie Sangbong

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Lie Sangbong is an innovative Korean designer. For spring, he created a light and airy collection, playing with geometric patchwork on a group of all-white looks. Lie also offered a series in blue that incorporated graphic linear patterns, stained-glass motifs and Korean lettering that was the lyrics to one of his country’s popular songs.

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The collection included relaxed and loose cropped trousers as well as skirts and dresses with origami folds.

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I really enjoyed these pieces, such intricacies and the pop of color in that of cobalt blue was brilliant!

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Casa de Moda by Jessica Lynn

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As people began filling the open space of the Prince George Gallery, a crack in the wall appeared and models began filing out. The social atmosphere was buzzing with the combination of conversation among guests, which included one of “The Real Housewives of Atlanta” Claudia Jordan and Demetria McKinney. 13 models stood against a metal plated wall while the audience moved closer to get a better look.

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The Casa de Moda collection stayed true to its metropolitan image. “I’m from L.A. and I was inspired by my city,” designer Jessica Lynn said. “Last summer I was sitting on the beach and we [saw] a string of beautiful sunsets with pink and blue…in the sky, and I was like, ‘Alright, that’s going to be my next collection,’” Lynn said.

The pastel blue and pink of the sunsets that she mentioned were accents in her collection against a primarily black, white, and gray color scheme. Architectural details like asymmetrical slit skirts, ruffle hems, and half-moon shaped chest cutouts gave the minimalist looks dimension.

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Meagan Ollari

AMCONYC is a platform that brings together emerging millennial designers, allowing them to share their creations with top fashion insiders and influencers across the country. This year, AMCONYC featured Meagan Ollari, and other new designers together to send their latest looks down the catwalk in seven fashionable shows.

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The models in Meagan Ollari’s “Bollywood Babydoll” Spring/Summer 2016 collection sauntered down the runway in bold prints inspired by Ollari’s recent travels to India. Bright colors and eccentric motifs played a leading role in her collection. Ollari created her line with innovation and wearability in mind, saying “I aim to be fresh, feminine, and sassy yet practical with my work and feel as though my best asset as a designer is the connection I have with my customers.” Feminine silhouettes brought the collection full circle with dresses perfect for sightseeing, outdoor brunches, and summer parties.

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More from Style Fashion Week

Another fun post for the talented designers who showcased at Style Fashion Week! This season, Style Fashion Week was held at Gotham Hall.

Malan Breton

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Bradelis Lingerie

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Lainy Gold Swimwear

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Control Sector

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Quyn H. Paris

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ESOSA

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Santa Clara Moda

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Chrisber’y

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Anthony Rubio

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