Etxeberria presented it’s F/W 2015 during MBFW at Lincoln Center. What a show with both women and menswear, fully dynamic, high quality pieces. Check out the details on the show below, entitled “Poets in NY”, as well as some great looks stemming from this collection.
Basque designer Roberto Lopez Etxeberria, by his own admission, was playing a “volumetric game” with his fall collection, with over-sized suits combining elements of tailored construction with a few twists and turns of zippers and furs and color blocking. With a color palette of basic black, white and gradations of grays with occasional explosions of furry red parkas, the designer worked wool and felt into over-sized suits, featuring zippers instead of buttons down the front of the jackets. The Neapolitan tailoring from the 1950’s, according to the designer, played an important role regarding the silhouettes and lengths.
Show credits —
- Director — Jermaine Browne
- Music — Marc Kasi
The silhouette of the striped wool suits combined a basic block cut for the jacket with wide shoulders. But the pants, the designer said, in many cases, were influenced by the Japanese “hakama” pleated pant bound at the bottom, and worn by samurai warriors to protect their legs from brush when riding a horse. To the western eye the pants were reminiscent of motorcycle riding pants silhouette. But instead of heavy wool or leather, these pants were in soft wool. A series of more tailored suit jackets, which referenced pinstripes, slimmed the silhouette.
Several women walked in the show wearing the suits, but they were not tailored to the feminine form. The standout pieces included a flaming red fur parka was rocked Model Deandra Forrest. And the finale offering was a white fur and wool floor length gown definitely formed for the feminine frame.
The brand of course specializes in men’s fashion though and that was clearly seen from this presentation. Modern suits were offered for men. Casual looks to make a gent stand-out were too presented. And also, very practical for the f/w season, lots of great, unique outerwear.
Celebs & special guests in attendance — Momma Rose & Karrueche Tran, Nick & Sophie Simmons, Clare Galterio, Bera. Top male model Shaun Ross walked in the show.